Important Information For You And Your Pet

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2009-06-11T08:13:00.001-07:00

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Canine Fitness Buddy

2009-06-10T09:30:00.001-07:00

Canine Fitness Buddy
Your perfect workout partner has four legs
Looking for the perfect fitness buddy? Your best friend may not always be available, but man's best friend never says no to a little exercise—and that's not just because dogs can't talk.

After a tough day of scavenging the kitchen floor for breakfast scraps and dozing on the couch, your canine companion will be more than happy to take a little stroll with you. Most dogs enjoy (and need) exercise and look forward to it as part of their otherwise leisurely daily routine.
Plus, exercising with your dog, even if it doesn't feel like exercise, can be beneficial to your health. A recent study from the University of Missouri-Columbia found that having a pet can encourage owners to be more active. Research participants walked with a dog on a regular, graduated schedule for a year until they were up to walking 20 minutes a day, five days a week. By the end, the weight loss was nothing to bark at—a solid average of 14 pounds per person.

Puppy Love

Don't forget, Fido needs to stay fit, too. According to Grisha Stewart, a Certified Pet Dog Trainer who was voted Seattle's Top Dog Trainer in 2006 by readers of CityDog magazine, dogs need about 45 minutes to an hour and a half of exercise each day, depending on the breed. "It's much better for the dog to be jogging along or walking along than just fetching. Running can calm them down more," Stewart says. And those exercise benefits don't just extend to your pup. "If you're walking along briskly, it definitely can help you stay in shape," Stewart adds.
The idea of a fit dog leading to a fit owner has been supported by research. A study from Northwestern Memorial Hospital's Wellness Institute found that obese people who tried losing weight with their overweight dogs lost an average of 11 pounds in one year, while the dogs lost about 16 percent of their body weight. The study cited the companionship, motivation, and social support dogs provide as key in helping owners slim down.
"Dogs need to be exercised, and so you make a commitment to that dog, which also creates a commitment to yourself," says Nancy Clark, a Certified Pet Dog Trainer and member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. "It's a have-to. You have to get out and exercise that dog; therefore, you get the exercise yourself."

Rover gets to rove, you burn calories

So if your workout needs a little pick-me-up, consider picking up a dog. Need some suggestions? Almost any dog will be a good walking companion, but if you're looking to spice things up a little, here are a few different activities to try, along with recommendations of some good breeds to take with you. And don't worry if you don't have a pooch of your own—loaner dogs can be found in cities ranging from Maui, Hawaii, to Beaver Creek, Colorado. Check with your local animal shelter to see if they offer a "borrowing" program for the day—a win-win for you and the lucky dog.

Running: Australian shepherd
This high-energy dog needs vigorous exercise to stay in shape, so running with an Australian shepherd is good for you and your pet. These dogs are easy to train and have been bred to feel most fulfilled when they have a job to perform (like herding livestock or protecting children), so they'll love to be your official jogging partner. Other large dogs that need lots of exercise to remain healthy are great to take for a run or even rollerblading; small dogs are usually better suited to short walks. And remember—if you get a dog that likes to run, you should like to run. "A prospective owner's main concern would be to get a dog that wants the same amount of exercise that they want," says Stewart, who also recommends using a front-attachment harness to better keep control of your pet while jogging.
Other good choices: Dalmatians, greyhounds

Swimming: Newfoundland
With a water-resistant coat, webbed feet, and a natural instinct for water rescue, the giant, shaggy-haired Newfoundland makes a great swimming buddy. Whatever dog you have, though, make sure he likes water and never force him to swim—every dog is different, even those that are considered born swimmers. For extra safety precautions in case a dog panics in deep water, invest in a doggy life jacket. They look much like the life vest humans wear, and they can be purchased for around $20 to $50.
Other good choices: Labrador retrievers, poodles

Yoga: Beagle
Believe it or not, dogs can do yoga — called "doga" for the canine set. Gyms in cities across the country, including New York and Los Angeles, offer classes for flexible pets and their owners. According to Brenda Bryan, who teaches a class in Seattle called Yoga with Your Dog, yogis and dogis love stretching alongside one another. "For dogs, it's a really nice opportunity to spend time with their person," she says. "For the people, yoga is, in general, a nice way to get to know your own body." And in the same way that yoga is relaxing for humans, canines also take time to calm down and de-stress. "Almost all the dogs mellow out, even the dogs that seem to be a little bit more rowdy," Bryan says. Still not convinced that doga is for you? Clark calls it "a really good bonding experience" and Bryan says, "For anyone, dog or human, you're relaxing for an hour; you're spending time in a positive environment. It certainly can't hurt."
Other good choices: Jack Russell terriers, bloodhounds

Hiking: Golden retriever
Practically any dog will enjoy a good hike in the great outdoors, but the ideal ones to take along will easily be able to maneuver obstacles and will have enough stamina to keep up. Clark recommends "bigger dogs that aren't running on short little legs, struggling to keep up with you." Not everyone is a fan of Fido on the trails, though, so make sure your dog is well-behaved and always on a leash—and yes, you will have to pick up and hike out any droppings your prized pooch leaves behind.
Other good choices: Doberman pinschers, German shepherds

Skijoring: Siberian husky
Strap on your skis and get ready to glide across the snow with your dog as the lead. Sound intimidating? It's actually a relatively easy sport to pick up. "All you need are some cross-country skis and a harness, and you're good to go," says Tren Long, president of the Bogus Skijoring Club in Boise, Idaho. Skijoring has been popular in Alaska for years, and it's recently had a surge in popularity in the Lower 48. Participants in this sport say the dogs love it. "My dog goes nuts," Long attests. "In the winter, if I leave the house without taking her, she'll give me that pouty face." And you can make the workout as easy or as challenging as you like. Start with flat ground and a short distance. If you really want to get your blood pumping, try hills and breaking your own trail. Northern breeds such as huskies like to pull and can handle the cold, but many dogs—as long as they're at least 35 pounds and are able to comfortably pull you—can be trained for this sport on an amateur level.
Other good choices: Alaskan malamutes, German shorthaired pointers

Food Allergy/Intolerance

2009-06-09T06:20:00.000-07:00

Food Allergies

(Only some of the captioned signs are usually present in a given animal, not necessarily all.)Allergic dog

The classical canine food allergy lesion distribution includes signs of facial itching, foot or limb chewing, belly itching, and recurrent ear infections.

Your Pet's Itchy Skin

Itchy skin in the small animal is often more than just a minor annoyance. Red, oozing bald patches, rashes, and large expanses of hair loss are unfortunate markers of very real discomfort for which a cause should be sought and specificAllergic cat

In cats, food allergy usually produces scabs and other signs of itching around the face or neck.

ally dealt with.

The food allergy is one of the itchiest conditions known to cat and dog. Animals eat a variety of processed food proteins, fillers, and colorings which are further processed inside their bodies. Proteins may be combined or changed into substances recognized by the immune system as foreign invaders to be attacked. The resulting inflammation may target the GI tract or other organ systems but, in dogs and cats, it is the skin that most often suffers from this immunologic activity.

Many people erroneously assume itching due to food allergy requires a recent diet change of some sort. In fact, the opposite is true.

Food allergy requires time to develop; most animals have been eating the offending food for years with no trouble.

What Kind of Allergy?

Sarcoptic mange and inhalant allergy (also known as atopy) are the two conditions which must be distinguished from food allergy as the treatment approach to each is markedly different. Much time and money can be wasted pursuing the wrong the problem.

Please consider the following clues which contribute to pointing us towards the food allergy as a diagnosis. Your pet demonstrates:

Your pet has been treated for sarcoptic mange without any positive change.
Your pet's itchiness is not and has never been a seasonal problem.
Your pet has responded poorly or only partially to cortisone-type medications.
Your pet has had a skin biopsy demonstrating changes often associated with allergy or, more specifically, food allergy.
A lesion distribution pattern which is common for food allergy (see illustration at top of page)

Please note that three of the above four criteria relate to what you, the owner, observe at home. Trouble results when the veterinarian must speak to different family members about the pet and there is disagreement in their observation of the pet at home. It is best to have one person, preferably the one who has the most contact with the pet, be the spokesperson and make the relevant judgments.

The Flea Factor

Some animals have many allergies. It would not be particularly unusual for an animal with a food or inhalant allergyFlea

to also be allergic to flea bites, especially considering that flea bite allergy is an extremely common allergy among pets. Because allergies add to each other, it is possible that a food allergic dog will not itch if its fleas are controlled. Since new technology has made flea control safe and convenient, it is especially important (and no longer difficult) to see that fleas are not complicating a pet's itching problem.

Ensure immaculate flea control for any itchy pet!

For more information on flea biology and flea control, visit the special site prepared by the Iowa State Veterinary College: http://www.vetmed.iastate.edu/services/vth/clinical/derm/flea/

How to Deal with the Food Allergy Suspect: The Hypoallergenic Diet Trial

The Basic Principle

To determine whether or not a food allergy or intolerance is causing the skin problem, a hypoallergenic diet is fed for a set period of time. If the pet recovers, the original diet is fed for up to two weeks to see if itching resumes. If we see recovery with the test diet and itch with the original diet, then food allergy is diagnosed and the pet is returned to either the test diet or another appropriate commercial food indefinitely.

What Is a Good Hypoallergenic Diet?

There are two approaches to this question. Obviously, the test diet must be of a food source that the patient could not possibly be allergic to. The traditional method is the use of a novel protein and carbohydrate source; that is, something the pet has never eaten before. In the past, lamb has been the protein source of choice as American pet food companies had traditionally failed to produce lamb-based pet foods. Unfortunately, recent production of lamb and rice-based foods has removed lamb from the acceptable hypoallergenic diet list.

Fortunately, many pet food companies have discerned the need for diets using unusual protein and carbohydrate sources with a minimum of additives. Foods can be obtained based on venison and potato, fish and potato, egg and rice, duck and pea, and even kangaroo. Our hospital generally recommends duck and potato based foods for dogs and duck and pea based foods for cats. We have chosen these products because they are available both as canned as well as dry formulas. (Most pet owners prefer to feed a combination of dry and canned food.)

It is important that during the diet trial no unnecessary medications be given. No edible chew toys (such as rawhides or bones) should be given. Treats must be based on the same food sources as the test diet. (Beware of rice cakes, though, as wheat is commonly used as a filler.) Chewable heartworm preventives should be replaced with tablets.

Home cooking was originally the only option felt to be appropriately free of allergens but for most animals these special commercial foods are adequate. Occasionally home cooking ends up being necessary after all.

The Hydrolyzed Protein Method

Recently a new approach has been introduced using therapeutic diets made from hydrolyzed proteins. This means that a conventional protein source is used but the protein is broken down into molecules too small to excite the immune system.

How Long to Feed the Trial Diet

In the past, 4 weeks was thought to represent a complete trial period. More recent work has shown that some food allergic animals require 8 to 10 weeks to respond. This may be an extremely inconvenient period of time for home cooking. Our current recommendation calls for a recheck appointment or phone call after four weeks of diet trial and then again after eight weeks of trial. Eighty percent of food allergic dogs will have responded to diet trial at least partially by six weeks. The Labrador retriever and cocker spaniel appear to require up 10 weeks of trial diet before showing a response. Some animals may even require a longer period.

All commercial diets mentioned have a 100% guarantee. This means that if your pet doesn't like the food, the food can be returned for a complete refund (even if the bag is opened). This is especially helpful for feline patients, as cats are famous for being choosy about what they are willing to eat.

What to Do if the Diet is Successful?

To confirm food allergy, return to the original food; itching resumes within 14 days generally if food allergy was truly the reason for the itchy skin. Many people do not want to take a chance of returning to itching if the patient is doing well; it is not unreasonable to simply stay with the test diet if the pet remains free of symptoms.

It is possible to more specifically determine the identity of the offending foods after the pet is well. To do this, a pure protein source (such as cooked chicken, tofu, wheat flour or any other single food) is added to the test diet with each feeding. If the pet begins to itch within 2 weeks, then that protein source represents one of the pet's allergens. Return to the test diet until the itching stops and try another pure protein source. If no itching results after two weeks of feeding a test protein, the pet is not allergic to this protein.

What to Do if the Diet is Unsuccessful?

Generally, an unsuccessful food trial is strongly suggestive that an inhalant allergy is really the primary problem but there are some other considerations that should at least be mentioned: Are you certain that the dog received no other food or substances orally during the trial? Was sarcoptic mange ruled out? Your pet may require a longer diet trial. Are you certain regarding the factor that pointed us toward the food allergy? If your pet has not been biopsied, now may be a good time. If an inhalant allergy has risen to the top of the list, symptomatic relief either via medication, special baths, or allergy shots will likely be necessary. Chronic itchiness can be extremely uncomfortable and prompt relief is the goal.

Take your medicine

2009-06-08T06:55:00.000-07:00

Take Your Medicine

Too often, pet owners leave veterinary hospitals with prescriptions they don't fully understand for pets who don't want to take their medicine.

As a practicing veterinarian, I can tell you that pets need to get their medicine exactly as prescribed for the best possible outcome. But a recent study confirms what we veterinarians already suspected: Only 10 percent of cat owners and 30 percent of dog owners succeed in medicating their pets correctly.

This means that a lot of prescriptions end up in the cupboard or on the person rather than in the reluctant pet. That's why it's important to ask some basic questions and make sure you understand all the answers before leaving your veterinarian's office with medication in hand.

I've narrowed them down to six questions that must be answered before you head home:

Why has this been prescribed? "Pet owners must understand exactly what condition a pet has and what the prescribed medications are for," says Dr. John Tait of the veterinary school at the University of Guelph in Ontario, Canada. For example, is the medication an antibiotic, a wormer, an anti-inflammatory drug, a pain medication or something to soothe the intestinal tract? Are we fighting a fever by giving an antibiotic, trying to prevent a secondary infection, or stopping diarrhea or vomiting?
How long should I give my pet this medicine? "There is a tendency to discontinue medication when our pets appear 'cured,'" says Dr. Kelly Diehl, an internal medicine specialist at the Veterinary Referral Center of Colorado in Englewood, Colo. "Owners need to follow their pet's medication schedule for the entire time prescribed." Diehl uses the development of bacterial resistance to antibiotics as an example. A pet may seem better, but the bacteria can prepare a second wave of attack if the medication isn't given for the duration prescribed.
How should I give this, and how often? Is the medication oral or topical? Will it be given in response to symptoms or on a regular schedule? "Because of busy schedules, it is easy to overlook a pet's medication," says Diehl. The easiest way to keep on schedule is to write down the doses in your home calendar and check them off when given to your pet. This way, you give all the doses for the proper amount of time. And if you miss a dose, don't double up to catch up. Instead, give the next dose at the prescribed time. Make sure, too, that you know how to get the medicine where it's going, such as by "pilling" an uncooperative pet. Ask for a demonstration or, if you can't handle the task at hand, ask for alternatives.
What about food and water? In a recent study, cats given medications without water were found to have the pills stranded far from the destination in the stomach. That's why medications should be chased with water, which for cats means giving them a syringeful after every pill. And don't forget to keep checking that ample water is available to your pet, since some medications increase thirst. Also, ask if the medication needs to be given with food or on an empty stomach. Different medications are digested and metabolized in different ways. Some medications are given on a full or partially full stomach in order to prevent irritation to the stomach lining.
What side effects should I watch for? "We try to be sure side effects are covered verbally at the time of the prescription and then followed with written information," says Dr. Thomas Carpenter of Newport Harbor Animal Hospital in Costa Mesa, Calif. Some side effects are not harmful, while others -- typically vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, weakness, paralysis -- can be quite serious. Ask what to expect, what is routine and what's not, and call your veterinarian if you have the slightest doubt or concern.
Is this safe with other medications? Make sure your veterinarian is aware of all other medications or supplements your pet is on, and don't add any others without checking first. "A great example of this danger is the use of a non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID). Many people think of aspirin as a very safe medication, but when combined with an NSAID it is very dangerous," says Carpenter.
The most important lesson all experts stress is to make sure the pet receives the medications. If you can't give the medications as prescribed, don't feel embarrassed or guilty, and do not put the meds away in the cupboard to tick away toward expiration. Call your veterinarian for help.

Can cats and dogs get along?

2009-06-04T08:13:00.001-07:00

Harmony at Home

Can cats and dogs get along? While cats and dogs scheming against each other is a comedic staple, millions of real-life cats and dogs live in harmony, and millions of people feel no family would be complete without at least one of each pet.

Getting a dog and cat to accept one another can be difficult, though, as anyone who's tried to introduce them knows. There are some basic steps to getting both pets to at least call an interspecies truce.

Under no circumstances should cat-dog introductions be handled by throwing the animals together and letting them work out things on their own. That method is far too stressful even in the best of circumstances. It's also important to keep in mind that introductions can be dangerous, usually for the cat. Some dogs see cats as prey, and even those dogs who are generally easygoing may react instinctively to a cat on the run, attacking the smaller animal.

Introductions must be supervised and handled with planning, care and patience.

If you have a cat and are planning to bring in a dog, try to find an animal who is known to be accepting of cats. Shelters, rescue groups or private parties looking to place puppies and dogs often know if an animal has successfully lived with a cat, or they will test to see how the pet behaves in the presence of one.

If you have a dog and are planning to bring in a cat, start working on your pet's obedience before you add the new animal. Your dog should be comfortable on a leash and be trained well enough to mind your requests for him to stay in either a "sit" or "down" position while on that leash.

For the cat's comfort, he should be confined during the early stages of introduction to a small area (such as a second bathroom or guest bedroom) where he can feel safe while becoming acclimated to the sounds and smells of the dog. Be sure the room has everything he needs, and make sure he has frequent one-on-one visits with human family members.

After a couple of days with the cat sequestered, put the dog on leash and open the door to the cat's room. Allow the animals to see one another, and do not allow the dog to chase the cat, even in play. Use "sit-stay" or "down-stay" to keep the dog in place while the cat gets used to his calm presence. Don't force the cat to interact with the dog; if the cat wishes to view the dog from the darkest recesses underneath the bed, so be it. Reward the good behavior of both animals with treats and praise.

Keep the dog on leash for a couple of weeks in the cat's presence, and always make sure the cat has a way to escape from the dog, such as putting a baby gate across the door to the safe area. Build up the time the animals spend together, and continue to make the introductions rewarding, with more treats and praise.

When the dog isn't interested in bothering the cat and the cat feels secure enough to come out from under the bed, you can take off the leash and let them get on with their new lives together. How long it will take to get to this step will depend on the animals involved, and you must work at their pace.

It's not uncommon for dogs and cats to become friends and to enjoy each other's company. Take the time to manage your cat-dog introduction properly, and you could be setting up a friendship that will last for the rest of your pets' lives.

Stem Cell Therapy is now available for your dog!

2009-06-03T09:41:00.000-07:00

Dogs age faster than humans; lucky for them, some areas of medicine are more advanced for veterinary care due to less stringent regulations. I am now certified to use Stem Cell Therapy for the treatment of dogs.

Conditions such as hip-dysplasia and arthritis are being treated with fat cells taken from the patient's own body. Using cells from the dog's own body eliminates the risk of rejection, and the ethical dilemma raised by using embryonic stem cells.The cost is MUCH lower than a canine hip replacement. The procedure seems simple enough; fat cells are removed from the dog, sent to a lab where they go through a concentration process, and then are returned to the Advanced Animal Care Center for insertion within 48 hrs. The cells are injected near the site of the injury, or degeneration. Owners report seeing significant improvement in their dogs within the first month.

I personally am amazed by the stem-cell procedure and I hope that the stiff regulations governing human medicine will either relax somewhat, or embrace this treatment. Imagine if we could help our dysplastic dogs run without pain and our arthritic friends could have pain-free mobility?!

The implications are huge! I know that I'd rather have an injection of my own cells to treat a degenerative joint, rather than an invasive surgery to replace it. I hope that we'll see these medical advancements continue to become more mainstream for our pets and spill over into traditional human medicine - soon!

Arthritis and Dogs

2009-06-02T06:13:00.000-07:00

Arthritis is common in people as nearly 50% of the people over 65 years of age are affected. Our pets, especially older dogs and horses, are also commonly affected with arthritis as they are living longer than ever before. The number of dogs with arthritis doubles after dogs reach 7 years of age. Many people with older dogs believe they are getting around slower just because of normal old age aches and pains, while many of these dogs, probably at least half, are actually suffering from arthritis and are not being treated. Symptoms of arthritis at first are slight stiffness in the morning, reluctance to walk, and difficulty rising. These symptoms should tell you that your dog is having a problem and a veterinary visit is recommended.

If your vet determines arthritis is present, we now have excellent medications specifically designed and approved for canine arthritis. Over the counter drugs used for people such as aspirin, ibuprofen, and acetaminophen should not be used in dogs. These drugs can be toxic in dogs depending on the dose so again aspirin, ibuprofen, and acetaminophen should not be used in your dog. Exercise such as walking and swimming are good for arthritis as it helps to decrease weight and improve muscle tone. As far as weight, this is the number one thing you can do to help your pet. At least 50% of the arthritic dogs we see in our practice would not need any arthritis pain medication if they would just lose the extra weight. This can only be done with a veterinary plan of a reduced calorie food as the over the counter foods are not low enough in calories for weight loss to occur and the diet will not be effective.

Parasites, Pets, and Kids

2009-06-01T07:15:00.001-07:00

Parasites, Pets, and Kids

Know the facts: Don’t expose your children!
· Hookworms and roundworms can be harbored by your dog or cat and transmitted to children who are living in homes with pets. In some cases these parasites can cause blindness in humans. It is thought that 30% to 50% of dogs and cats carry gastrointestinal (GI) parasites and that 1 to 3 million people in the U.S. have infections from the same parasites carried by pets. Children, the elderly and immunocompromised people are at high risk.
· Dogs get infected with hookworms and roundworms by walking places where other dogs have defecated. The microscopic roundworm eggs and hookworm larvae end up on your dog’s feet. Your dog then licks his feet and infects him or herself with these GI parasites. Three weeks later, your dog is shedding hookworm eggs and larvae from his GI tract. If your dog licks his anus and then licks your child, or if your child pets your dog, he or she can become infected with these parasites.
· Dogs can get ticks that spread Lyme disease, anaplasmosis, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, ehrlichiosis, and tularemia, which can affect people if the ticks detach from the dog and attach themselves to your child. This could be a risk factor for your children if the family dog or cat sleeps in their bed.
· Cats get infected with hookworms and tapeworms by hunting prey. Even if your cat lives indoors, the ingestion of one house mouse can expose your cat to GI parasites. Cats with a flea infestation can spread cat scratch fever to children, elderly people, or immunocompromised (AIDS, cancer patients, organ transplant recipients) people.

How Can You Prevent the Risk of Spreading Parasites to Your Children?
· Keep your dog on monthly heartworm preventative all year. This medication helps to prevent hookworms and roundworms in your dog. Keep your dog on topical flea and tick control all year.
· Scoop the yard where your dog defecates at least weekly, ideally daily, as worm eggs and larvae are found in stool and can contaminate the environment.
· Bring your pet’s stool sample to your veterinarian at least twice per year and ideally four times per year. You do not have to bring your pet into the veterinary hospital for this service. The stool should be fresh. Many veterinarians will provide a special cup that allows specimen collection without touching the stool.
· Keep your cat on heartworm prevention once per month all year. This medication eliminates hookworms that could be potentially spread to humans in the household. It also kills fleas, which can be culprits in spreading cat scratch disease (cat scratch fever).
· Teach your children to wash their hands before eating, especially if they have recently handled their pet.

FDA warns about purchasing pet drugs online

2009-05-29T07:14:00.000-07:00

Prescription PolicyAt Advanced Animal Care Center, it is our policy to take every possible step to ensure that our patients receive the very best pharmaceutical products available. Veterinarians are required to have a valid client/patient/veterinarian relationship in order to prescribe certain medications for patients. We carry a number of prescription products, veterinary ‘prescription diets’ and products labeled by the manufacturer ‘for sale by licensed veterinarians only’. We try to balance the convenience for you of having the product available here with the costs of having such inventory and our profiting from the sale of these products. We try to keep our prices within reason, but as a business, we have costs to cover to provide the products and product use information to you. In order to avoid any misconceptions, we have established the following prescription policy.

If you wish, we will gladly write prescriptions for your pet in lieu of selling them here so that you have a choice in where you have your prescriptions filled. We do, however wish for your decision to be an informed decision, and want you to know several things regarding prescription sales through some other sources:

1. All major manufacturers (Novartis, Pfizer, Bayer, Merial, etc) of veterinary specific products (Interceptor®, Sentinel®, Frontline®, Rimadyl®, Anipryl®, Metacam®, Heartgard® to name a few) maintain a policy of sales exclusively through licensed veterinarians

2. All or most catalogue/online sources cannot obtain specific veterinary products directly from the manufacturer. They have been known to twist their words about where they obtained their product. They may report the product is from X manufacturer. They do not say they purchased from the manufacturer.

3. All or most catalogue/online source sales of these products/medications are through non-approved channels.

4. All or most catalogue/online sources will not divulge from whom they are purchasing their veterinary specific products.

5. Most guarantees that manufacturers make regarding their products are null and void if their products are obtained through non-approved channels. This includes the guarantee
reimbursement programs for flea control, as well as all heartworm and intestinal parasite claims.
6. Pharmaceuticals manufactured and labeled for use in other countries (namely Australia) have been illegally diverted and sold through these discount houses in the United States.

7. Counterfeit products have been produced.

8. Some discount houses have been cited by the FDA and State Boards of Pharmacy for violating prescribing procedures. PetMedExpress (a.k.a. SaveMax), in particular, was recently fined over $100,000.00 by the FDA and Florida Department of Health. This particular discount house has also recently been sued by the Texas Board of Veterinary Medical Examiners and the Texas Pharmacy Board.

9. PetMedExpress has deceptive advertising, as many times our prices are LOWER than or comparable to their prices.

10. PetMedExpress in particular at times has been aggressive and rude when they have called us. They have called multiple times after we declined authorizing prescriptions. They have wasted our time and upset our staff. They have called even after we requested they never call us again. They have tried to get us to authorize medications for pets we have no current client/patient/veterinarian relationship with.

11. Our products come with a person to help you utilize them in the most efficient manner. For example, we do not charge for recheck exams/consults for flea control if a prescription flea control product was purchased here. We will help you learn to apply product properly.

12. Shipping charges, delays, mis-shipments, and damaged products are several of the reasons that many clients feel that the hassles of dealing with the catalogue houses are not worth the savings.

13. Although the discount houses have concluded their business with you after you pay, we keep records for your specific pet, medication, dose and dosage instructions as well as refill information and requirements, regardless of where you choose to purchase the product. We keep records for at least 3 years after the last time we see the pet.

If you prefer to purchase your products at catalogue/online houses, we will gladly write prescriptions for these products according to the following guidelines:

1. All state and federal prescribing laws apply the same as if you purchase it here. (Some of the discount houses have not always followed the federal and/or state laws, but trust them at your own risk.)

2. We will write one prescription per medication per pet per 6 months at no charge. You must pick up this prescription in person. You are responsible for sending the prescription in to your choice of pharmacies. If this prescription is lost or filled improperly by the catalog house, additional copies will be provided to you at a bookkeeping fee of $15.00.

3. If you require having the prescription rewritten, a bookkeeping fee of $15.00 will apply.

4. To avoid any potential doctor-patient confidentiality issues, we will not communicate with the discount house in any form or fashion. We will not fax, or return faxes to them. We will not accept their phone calls.

5. It is your responsibility to ensure that the prescription is sent, filled, labeled, shipped, and used correctly. The discount houses have a reputation for poor customer service, and we cannot be expected to take the time to oversee their operations and shortcomings. We cannot be responsible if they send counterfeit or unauthorized products to you.

6. We will not become involved in any product failure issues for products purchased through these discount houses. This includes any prescription or nonprescription products. If you change your mind after we have written a prescription ‘script’ for you, we will be unable to fill the prescription for you here until you return the actual prescription form to us.

Is your dog itchy and scratching?

2009-05-28T07:00:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

Itching and Allergy in Dogs

Coping with an itchy pet can be an extremely frustrating experience for you, the pet owner, and can truly test the limits of the human-animal bond. Persistent scratching and chewing by the pet can also result in self-excoriation and open wounds. The following information is intended to provide the pet owner with a basic understanding of the most common underlying causes of itching and allergies in small animals.

The Most Common Causes of Chronic Itching

The common causes fall into two groups: external parasites and allergies. External parasites that most commonly cause chronic itching dermatitis include fleas and sarcoptic mange. We often recommend therapeutic trials for sarcoptic mange in chronically and severely itchy dogs. We always recommend stepped-up flea control and monitoring for fleas, as flea infestation can really make allergy worse!

What are Allergies?

Allergy is a state of hypersensitivity in which exposure to a harmless substance known as an allergen induces the body’s immune system to “overreact.” The incidence of allergies is increasing in both humans and their pets. People with allergies usually have “hay fever” (watery eyes, runny nose and sneezing) or asthma. While dogs can rarely also have respiratory allergies, more commonly they experience the effects of allergic hypersensitivities as skin problems. Though there are a variety of presentations, this can often be seen as redness and itching, recurring skin or ear infections, and hair loss. This is sometimes called eczema or atopic dermatitis.

What are the Major Types of Allergies in Dogs?

Flea AllergyFlea allergic dermatitis is the most common skin disease in dogs and cats. For the flea allergic patient, 100% flea control is essential for the pet to remain symptom-free.

“But doctor, I never see fleas on my pet.”

You may not see them, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t there. The allergy is caused by the flea’s saliva, and it only takes a few bites to induce the problem. Also, the itchy pet often scratches so much that adult fleas are removed, making them hard to find.

“If fleas are the problem, why is my pet still itchy in the winter?”

In warm climates or in our homes, fleas may survive in low numbers year-round. Because flea allergy is so common, we recommend that complete flea control be instituted before proceeding with diagnostics for other allergies and that year-round flea control be maintained for all allergy patients.

Food Allergy

Some pets develop specific hypersensitivities to components of their diets. The allergen usually is a major protein or carbohydrate ingredient such as beef, chicken, pork, corn, wheat, or soy. Minor ingredients such as preservatives or dyes are also potential allergens. The diagnosis of food allergy requires that we test your pet by feeding special strict diets that contain only ingredients that he has never eaten before. This is often achieved by feeding a prescription diet for a period of 10 to 16 weeks. If the signs resolve, a challenge is performed by feeding the former diet and watching for a return of the itching. If this occurs, a diagnosis of food allergy is confirmed.

Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is an inherited predisposition to develop skin problems from exposure to variety of commonplace and otherwise harmless substances including the pollens of weeds, grasses and trees, as well as house dust mites and mold spores. Diagnosis of AD is made based on the results of intradermal skin testing or by in vitro blood testing. Evaluating the results of these tests helps us compile a list of allergens for a “vaccine” to decrease the pet’s sensitivity. Sometimes multiple skin and/or blood tests are necessary to accurately assess the patient’s allergies.

Secondary Infections

Allergies are often the underlying cause of recurring skin and/or ear infections. Bacterial and yeast infections, though secondary to the allergy, can cause an increase in your pet’s level of itching. Long-term treatment with antibiotics and anti-yeast medications is commonly required, along with medicated bathing programs.

Can Allergies be Cured?

Unfortunately, there is no cure for allergy and it is usually a life-long problem. We seek to control allergies and improve the quality of life for both you and your pet. We will formulate the best program of management that suits all involved with your pet’s care.

Can I have the Itching Treated without the Expense of Diagnostic Testing?

Symptomatic drug therapy can help to reduce itching. Steroids, such as prednisone tablets in particular, are often employed to stop the itch. However, without addressing the underlying cause, the itching will return. Long-term use of steroids can result in many health problems. This is the reason that we encourage diagnosis of the underlying cause of the allergy and more specific or less potentially harmful treatments.

Is your dog eating grass?

2009-05-27T10:54:00.001-07:00

There’s a lot of debate about why dogs eat grass. Some dogs seem to act like mini lawnmowers, eating grass at every opportunity. Others dogs eat grass only occasionally, subsequently throwing it up.
So do dogs eat grass to throw up? This is a debatable issue. This wisegeek author has observed her dog fling himself at the door to get out to grass and eat a few mouthfuls, usually when his stomach is upset. He also appears to do it when he has something stuck in his throat. The end goal of the dog seems to be to throw up.
There actually appears to be two types of grass eating behavior in dogs. Some dogs take a few nibbles, while others eat quickly, barely chewing the grass. Unchewed grass often translates to near instant vomiting. Dogs that are careful grazers, on the other hand, may not get sick from grass.
The latter case suggests that some dogs eat grass because they enjoy it. Most dogs don’t need it to supplement their diets, but because dog diets are primarily made up of herbivores, that grassy taste may be reminiscent of the cattle or lamb product they had for dinner. Some dogs also enjoy green vegetables like broccoli.
If your dogs eat grass on a regular basis, this could suggest dietary imbalance, though many vets might dismiss it. You may want to consider giving the dogs some green vegetables if they appear to want “something green.” Cooking the vegetables first may make them more digestible, resulting in less vomiting.
It’s also important to be careful when your dogs eat grass regularly. Grass from manicured lawns can contain fertilizers and pesticides, which can be toxic to dogs. Instead of allowing “grazing” behavior on lawns, consider providing some doggy grass at home that is not treated with chemicals. Also, if your dogs eat grass all the time, don’t walk them on lawns that have been recently treated with chemicals. Most of these chemicals will break down in a few days, but during the first day or two after treatment, grass-eating behavior could translate to more than tummy upset.
If your dogs eat grass as a new behavior, and are exhibiting frequent vomiting, it’s also important to check with a vet. A dog that suddenly begins to have a taste for grass may be trying to compensate for gastrointestinal problems. This could signify viral or bacterial infections and might require veterinary treatment. On the other hand, when dogs eat grass only occasionally, you can chalk this up to normal canine behavior. A mouthful of grass or two may mean cleaning up some nasty dog messes, but it is unlikely to signify poor dietary health or illness.

Paw Power

2009-05-27T08:37:00.001-07:00

Contact : Michel Selmer, DVM
Telephone: (631) 367-7387
E-mail: drselmer@optonline.net

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

LONG ISLAND’S MOBILE ANIMAL CARE UNIT

Did you know? Scientific research says that including a pet as a part of your family brings huge health benefits, especially for those of us over 65 years of age. Here are a few of the results from these studies:
The simple act of holding an animal can relieve symptoms of depression, lower blood pressure, and even decrease surgical patients’ healing times.
The long-term survival rates of heart attack victims who had a pet are significantly longer than for those who did not.
Widows who have cats are better off medically during their first year, which is a critical stress time, than widows who do not.
Pet owners have lower triglyceride and cholesterol levels than non-owners.
One year after having a myocardial infarction, dog owners were more likely to still be living.
Dog walking, pet grooming, and even petting provide increased physical activity that strengthens the heart, improves blood circulation, and slows the loss of bone tissue.
The most serious disease for older persons is not cancer or heart disease — it’s loneliness. Love is the most important health tonic we have, and pets are one of nature’s best sources of love.
Seniors – and the majority of pet owners – typically are unable to provide lifetime care for their pets. Advanced Animal Care Center concentrates our efforts towards providing seniors with an opportunity to ensure the appropriate care for their animal companions.

Memorial Day Weekend and Your Pets

2009-05-22T09:30:00.000-07:00

The weekend that kicks off summer, vacations, and fun in the sun can be stressful and irritating not only to you, but also to your pets.

It is one of the busiest weekends for travel, BBQ’s and other celebrations.

Please take these safety tips into consideration when planning your fun.
If traveling with your pet, take identification for them and their health records.

If you are having guests and your dog roams freely throughout the house and the backyard, make sure they will be relaxed with lots of other people at your house. If your dog is stressed by the noise and amount of people, they may try and dig out of the backyard which could lead to horrible consequences like getting hit by a car or running away forever.

Remember that dogs can suffer heat stroke just like humans. Make sure your pet has a comfortable place to get out of the sun, rain, or other types of weather.

Please remember your pet’s sensitive stomach and even though it’s a holiday, keep them on their regular diet. Many foods can upset them and are just plain poisonous.

If you need too travel without your pet, there are many quality pet sitting services available, pre-screened, background checked sitters and dog walkers also offers affordable pet sitting and house sitting.

Take your vet's phone number with you. If you're going someplace involving hiking or the great outdoors, call your vet ahead of time to make sure you are adequately prepared for all conditions (heartworm medication, flea treatment, etc).

Make sure your pet's ID tags are current! I cannot stress this enough - if you and your pet become separated for any reason, your current phone number on the pet's tag is vital. Trust me on this one. You'll thank me.

Have appropriately strong leashes and harnesses available to you. If one leash breaks, you'll have a backup. Or, if you're a diva like my dog, you'll want options depending upon mood and color choice for the day.

Pack plenty of water, and have an easy way to dispense it to your pet. I have a hiking water bottle made for dogs which comes with its own little plastic trough, creating an easy drinking solution.

Plan rest stop visits into your trip - remember, pets have smaller bladders than we do. Hard to believe in my case, but true.

Seal your pet food tightly. Critters will find pet food a unique delight - an airtight container will be your best bet.

Never, ever leave your pet in the car for extended periods of time. It's hot! Warm weather is upon us, and your pet will suffer needlessly if left in the car for an extended length of time.

Summer is officially here so let’s kick it off right and have a safe and joyful holiday weekend for your pets!

Behavior Problems?

2009-05-22T07:38:00.001-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

CAUSES AND DIAGNOSIS OF BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS

What makes a pet misbehave?
Behavior problems can be due to medical or behavioral causes, or both. A clinical history, physical examination, and diagnostic testing will help determine if there are underlying medical conditions contributing to the problem. Although there may be a single cause for a behavior problem, it is often the combined effect of the environment and learning on the pet’s mental and physical health that determines behavior.

For example, the pet that is fearful of children may become more reactive, irritable, and aggressive as conditions such as dental problems, arthritis or anal sacculitis make the pet more uncomfortable, painful or less mobile.

Another example is the cat that has been exposed to other cats roaming across its territory, but only begins to mark when it developed an overactive thyroid at 10 years of age. Correcting the thyroid problem as well as behavior modification techniques can resolve this problem.

What are some behavioral causes?
Any change in the environment or daily routine may contribute to the emergence of behavior problems. For example, schedule changes, a new member of the household (baby, spouse), moving, illness or injury of a family member, loss of a family member or another pet, or the addition of a new pet can have a dramatic impact on behavior. Medical or degenerative changes associated with aging may cause the pet to be even more sensitive to these environmental changes.

Learning (e.g. reinforcement, punishment) also plays a role in virtually every behavior problem. When a pet’s actions result in unpleasant consequences (e.g. punishment), the chances of repeating the behavior will decrease. Punishment might be the application of something unpleasant or the removal of something good (i.e. petting stops if you do that behavior). If a behavior is followed by pleasant consequences such as obtaining food, attention, or affection (rewards), the behavior is likely to be repeated (positive reinforcement). These consequences could be administered unintentionally by the owners, as when the owner gives a reward following a behavior, or obtained by the pet itself through its actions (as when the pet gets a favored treat when rolling around its feeding toy. Although in practice the goal would be to use rewards to encourage desirable behavior, many undesirable behaviors are encouraged because of rewards such as the owner who allows the dog into the house to stop the dog from barking, or when the dog finds leftovers in the garbage. Another very powerful form of learning is that of negative reinforcement where the pet’s behavior is reinforced because something pleasant or undesirable has been removed. This might be the case when a dog exhibits aggression and the stimulus (person, other animal) retreats. It can be difficult to determine what might be reinforcing a behavior, but if a behavior is ongoing, then (from the pet’s perspective) reinforcement is operating to maintain the problem behavior.

What role does genetics and early experience have in the development of behavior problems?
Some of the most important causes of behavioral problems, and the ones that might be most difficult to improve, are genetic factors that influence or even dictate the pet’s response to stimuli, and the environment that the pet experienced during its most sensitive periods of development including a) the socialization period from 3 to 12 weeks b) prenatal and neonatal experiences and c) secondary socialization and development through to maturity. Lack of stimulation, lack of handling, lack of exposure, insufficient socialization, and particularly stressful or traumatic events can have a major impact on the pet’s behavior.

What tests can be done to determine a behavioral cause?
A good history is one of the most important means of determining the cause of a behavioral problem. This involves an in depth analysis of the pet’s medical and behavioral history including any training, as well as the circumstances surrounding the problem itself. Daily interactions with the pet and any changes in schedule need to be explored. Often the event that precipitated the behavioral change may be different from that which maintains it. If you can catch the problem on videotape, this can be a valuable diagnostic aid for the veterinarian Perhaps the most important element in determining the cause of the problem and what diagnostic workup might be needed will be the clinical signs that you report. Since we cannot ask the pet how it is feeling or if anything hurts, we will need to find out from you, the pet owner, all of the signs that your pet is exhibiting, behavioral and medical. Then based on the history you provide, previous health problems, any medications that your pet might be taking and the findings of a physical examination, additional diagnostic tests might be warranted. A final diagnosis of a behavioral cause can only be made after all medical factors have been ruled out.

What medical conditions can cause or contribute to behavior problems?
A decline in the pet’s hearing, sight or other senses, organ dysfunction (e.g. liver or kidney disease), hormonal diseases, diseases affecting the nervous system, diseases of the urinary tract (infections, tumors or stones), any disease or condition that might lead to pain or discomfort, and problems that affect the pets mobility can all cause or contribute to behavior problems.

a) Any condition that leads to an increase in pain or discomfort can lead to increased irritability, increased anxiety or fear of being handled or approached, and ultimately to increased aggressiveness. If these aggressive displays are successful at removing the “threat” (and they usually are) the behavior is reinforced. Medical conditions that affect the ears, anal sacs, teeth and gums, bones, joints, or back (disks) are some of the more common causes of pain and discomfort. If the pet’s mobility is affected, it may become increasingly aggressive, choosing to threaten and bite, rather than retreat. A decrease in mobility could also affect urination and defecation by reducing the pet’s ability to utilize its elimination area.
b) Sensory dysfunction: Pets with diminished sight or hearing may have a decreased ability to detect or identify the stimuli, and might begin to respond differently to commands, sounds or sights. Sensory decline is more likely to be seen as pets age.
c) Diseases of the internal organs, such as the kidneys or liver, can cause a number of behavior changes, primarily due to the toxic metabolites that accumulate in the bloodstream. Organ decline and dysfunction is more common in the older pet. Any medical condition that causes an increased frequency of urination or decreased urine control, such as kidney disease, a bladder infection, bladder stones, or neurological damage, might lead to an increase in house soiling. Similarly, those problems that affect the frequency of bowel movements or bowel control, such as colitis or constipation, might lead to house soiling with stools.
d) Diseases of the nervous system (brain and spinal cord) can lead to a number of behavior and personality changes. Conditions such as epilepsy, brain tumors, infections, immune and degenerative diseases can all directly affect a dog or cat’s nervous system and therefore its behavior. In the older pet aging changes can have a direct effect on the brain, leading to cognitive dysfunction and senility
e) The endocrine (hormone) system also plays a critical role in behavior. Over-activity or under-activity of any of the endocrine organs can lead to a number of behavior problems. The thyroid and parathyroid glands (in the neck), the pituitary gland (in the brain), the adrenal gland (by the kidneys), the pancreas, and the reproductive organs can all be affected by conditions or tumors that lead to an increase or decrease in hormone production. Endocrine disorders are more likely to arise as the pet ages.
f) The aging process is associated with progressive and irreversible changes of the body systems. Although these changes are often considered individually, the elderly pet is seldom afflicted with a single disease, but rather with varying degrees of organ disease and dysfunction. Cognitive decline and senility have also been recognized in older dogs and cats. See our handout on geriatric behavior problems for more details.

What tests need to be done to determine if my pet’s behavior problem is due to a medical condition?
a) Clinical history and physical examination.
The assessment begins with a clinical history and physical examination. Remember that the history you provide may be the only way to determine if there are behavioral or medical changes. Be certain to mention any changes or problems that you may have noticed in your pet’s behavior, no matter how minor. Based on the signs that you report and the findings of the examination, laboratory tests and a more comprehensive examination such as a neurological examination or sensory testing may be required. For some of these tests your pet may need to be referred to a specialist.

b) Medical, surgical, dietary or pharmacologic treatment.
Before beginning behavior therapy, any medical problems that have been diagnosed should be treated. A change in diet or a drug trial may be an important aspect of differentiating a medical from a behavioral cause (such as a food trial or steroid trial that might be used to rule out an underlying allergic cause). Surgery may be indicated when a tumor is diagnosed or when castration is indicated to reduce male sexually influenced behaviors. Your veterinarian may commence medical and behavioral treatment for long-standing behavior problems. There are also a variety of behavioral drugs and supplements that might be useful or necessary depending on the type, intensity and severity of the behavioral disorder (see our handouts on behavioral drugs and complementary medicines).

Tear staining

2009-05-21T07:02:00.001-07:00

Runny Eyes (Epiphora)
(Excessive tear production in dogs and cats)

Watery ocular discharge is a common concern of pet owners. Excessive tears drain down the pet’s face and, in time, the chronic exposure to moisture produces skin irritation, infection, and odor. The fur becomes stained reddish brown due to tear pigments called porphyrins, an especially non-cosmetic problem in white-furred pets. The medical term for this condition is epiphora and it is one of the most difficult conditions to resolve in all of veterinary ophthalmology.
There are two causes of epiphora (excess tearing) in pets:irritation to the eye and abnormal tear drainage. Irritation to the Eye
One of the eye’s natural responses to irritation is to produce more tears. This helps flush away any irritants that might have contaminated the eye surface. If excessive tearing is accompanied by squinting or pawing of the eye, or if the excessive tearing should occur suddenly, this should be taken as an obvious sign of eye pain and veterinary attention should be sought at once. Any accompanying loss of vision should be taken as an emergency.
It is the more chronic cases that are harder to manage. Eyes can certainly become chronically irritated from viral conjunctivitis (probably the most common reason for excessive tearing in cats), from glaucoma (painful increase in eye pressure in the eye), from reaction to certain eye medications, or more commonly from eyelash or eyelid abnormalities.
Some breeds of dogs naturally have hair in their eyes and this does not cause irritation, in most cases but in some cases it can. Hairs can grow from the face onto the eye and cause irritation. Eyelashes can grow at abnormal angles and rub on the eye. Eyelashes can even grow on the inner surface of the eyelids or corner of the eye and cause irritation. Often magnifying instruments are needed to discover these tiny hairs and delicate surgical procedures are needed to address them. Complicating the situation, however, is the fact that breeds that tend to have eyelid and eyelash problems also tend to be the same as those with faulty tear drainage anatomy (see below), which makes it hard to determine which of many possible causes is to blame.
Allergy, irritating dust or smog in the air, trauma, or infection can lead to excessive tears from conjunctivitis. These other problems can often be treated medically by a general practitioner.
Corneal ulcer
Feline upper respiratory infection
Inhalant allergy
Brachycephalic breeds
Dry eye
Normal Tear Drainage

Once we are certain that the eye is not painful, we can consider that the drainage ducts of the eyes may not be normal. The normal eye is most efficient at draining tears. Look at the inner corner of the eyelids (the side nearest the nose) where you can see the pink, moist caruncle, and on the eyelid margins there are upper and lower openings called nasolacrimal puncta. These are essentially drainage holes for tears. The puncta are the openings to small passages called canaliculi which in turn open into a sac called the lacrimal sac. The lacrimal sac drains into the nasolacrimal duct, which drains tears into the nasal passages and throat. (This is why we get runny noses when we cry, why we sniffle when we cry, and why we can taste our tears when we cry).
There are many problems that can occur along this drainage route. One common problem, especially in poodles and Bichons frises as well as brachycephalic breeds, is simply that the eye socket is shallow. This means that tears overflow from the corner of the eye because the eyelid space there is not deep enough to contain them. These tears never make it to the puncta and instead spill down the sides of the nose. This condition, if present, cannot be repaired; it is simply the conformation of the dog’s face.Alternatively, the eyelids may be turned inward (a condition called entropion) blocking the puncta and preventing drainage. Another problem may be long hair acting as a wick that draws tears from the eye to the skin, especially in breeds where hairs actually grow on the caruncle. This hair may be kept trimmed; although if the hair is part of a brachycephalic breed’s nasal skin fold, surgery may be needed to remove or alter the skin fold.
Old infections or injuries may scar the puncta, canaliculi, or nasolacrimal ducts closed. Sometimes a vigorous flushing of saline through the ducts, performed under general anesthesia, can re-open them. Sometimes the puncta are congenitally closed (common in poodles and cocker spaniels) and can be surgically re-opened.
It is fairly easy to determine if there is a problem with drainage in a non-invasive way that is sometimes called the Jones test.) A stain for eyes called fluorescein is dropped onto the eye and after a couple of minutes should be evident at the nostrils if the tear drainage system is intact.
If surgery is required in these delicate little drainage structures, special equipment is needed and a veterinary ophthalmologist is best consulted. For help finding an ophthalmologist for your pet, check www.acvo.com.
Addressing the Staining
An assortment of remedies has been suggested to resolve the unsightly reddish stains that result from chronic tear drainage. The following are some comments on suggestions we have heard.
Low doses of tetracycline or tylosin: Variable success has been reported but the problem is that this probably constitutes less than responsible use of antibiotics, and resistant bacterial strains may result from this practice. It is generally frowned upon by pharmacologists. It is probably worth mentioning that tetracycline should not be used in immature animals as it will cause the teeth to be stained.
Regular wiping of the area with hydrogen peroxide basically serves to bleach the area and requires regular use to make a difference.
Missing Link® Nutritional Supplements:The manufacturer lists reduction in tearing and tear staining as one of the benefits of the product although they say 3 to 4 months of use are needed to see a change. Because this is a nutritional product, they are not able to formally make this claim on the label and no experimental studies have been done to prove the validity of this claim.
Douxo Micellar Solution is also reported to cleanse away staining debris from the hair with use over time. This product is used on the fur and skin, NOT ON THE EYE.

Therapeutic Nutrition

2009-05-20T10:16:00.001-07:00

Therapeutic Nutrition

In this era of the Internet there is an overwhelming amount of credible and not-so-credible information. It is nearly impossible to decipher the truth from fiction. Therapeutic Nutrition is broadly defined as the use of nutrients, such as vitamins, minerals, amino acids, essential fatty acids, co-factors, enzymes, anti-oxidants, and phytonutrients, to support the body’s immune and healing systems, thereby altering the course and outcome of a disease process. It can be used as a preventative, or can be used as a therapy. It does not focus on food types, calories nor minimum daily requirements, but rather on metabolic and physiological effects of foods on the body’s healing and immune systems. Unlike drugs, nutritional products are not designed to address symptoms or diseases, they are designed to “feed” and “fuel” the cells of the body, using or calling upon the cells’ inherent ability to heal and achieve wellness. The goals of therapeutic nutrition fall within 3 broad categories, which directly help to enhance wellness.
ü The supply of appropriate, bioavailable nutrients
ü The reduction of inflammation
ü The enhancement of elimination of toxins
The pet food industry attempted to regulate and standardize commercially prepared pet foods. This method is based upon the chemical content and analysis of food, the actual levels of fats, proteins, carbohydrates, and moisture. The regulatory methodology is accomplished via the guaranteed analysis of the food. To qualify as a pet food, the following 4 categories must be listed on the label : crude protein, crude fat, crude fiber, and moisture. Veterinarians were able to put together a mixture containing coal, shoes, and crankcase oil. When chemically analyzed, this mixture met the minimum requirements of pet food. So, it is not only the chemical composition of pet foods that is important, but the bioavailability of the raw ingredients used.
Dr. Selmer has affirmed that optimum nutrition helps slow the onset and progression of chronic disease because it restores balance and promotes healing by supporting the metabolic pathways that energize the healing system. In addition, it helps reduce the inflammation that predisposes an animal to disease. Its use, either alone or in combination with appropriate medication, contributes to the day-to-day wellness of the animal.

Blood Work : What does it all mean?

2009-05-19T06:15:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center

Telephone and fax number
631-367-7387 and 631-367-7414
Website: www.advancedcareforpets.com

Blood Work: CBC and Chemistry Panel

What does it mean when a veterinarian says she needs to run some blood work on your pet? Blood work - presurgical or otherwise - is usually a combination of a complete blood count (CBC) and a blood chemical analysis. Blood work is a basic evaluation tool. Pets, particularly senior ones, should have a CBC at every annual examination. In addition, blood work allows a veterinarian to monitor the progression of a pet's disease.
When the blood sample is drawn from your pet, both the cells and the fluid they "travel" in are examined.
The cell part of the blood is examined in the CBC. The CBC determines the number of erythrocytes (red blood cells), the number and type of leukocytes (white blood cells), the number of platelets (thrombocytes), the hemoglobin level, and the hematocrit (packed cell volume, PCV). Erythrocytes carry oxygen throughout the body. Leukocytes fight infection and are part of the immune system. There are five different types of white blood cells: neutrophils, lymphocytes, basophils, eosinophils, and monocytes. Platelets are clotting proteins and indicate how fast your pet's blood can clot; slow clotting can be a serious problem. A CBC can tell your veterinarian if your pet has an unusual number of erythrocytes (anemia, polycythemia), leukocytes (leukopenia, leukocytosis), or platelets (thrombocytopenia).
A chemistry panel (blood chem, chemistry screen), tests kidney function, liver function, electrolyte levels, etc. Blood chemistries are run on the fluid in the blood sample. (The CBC is the examination of the cells in the blood sample.)
The chemistry panel usually includes the following tests: alkaline phosphatase (SAP, ALP), alanine transaminase (alanine aminotransferase, ALT), bilirubin total (T Bili), blood urea nitrogen (BUN), creatinine, creatine kinase (CK, CPK), sodium, potassium, glucose, total protein, albumin, etc. Alkaline phosphatase, alanine transaminase, bilirubin, and albumin give your veterinarian information about the pet's liver function. Blood urea nitrogen, creatinine, and creatine kinase tell your veterinarian how well your pet's kidneys are functioning.
Alkaline phosphatase: Used extensively as a tumor marker, it is also present in liver injury, bone injury, pregnancy, or skeletal growth (elevated values). Growing animals have normally higher levels of this enzyme also. Low levels are sometimes found in protein deficiency, malnutrition, and a number of vitamin deficiencies.
Alanine transaminase: Decreased ALT in combination with increased cholesterol levels is seen in cases of a congested liver. Increased levels are also seen in liver damage, kidney infection, chemical pollutants, or myocardial infarction.
Bilirubin (total): Elevated in liver disease, hemolytic anemia, low levels of exposure to the sun, and toxic effects to some drugs. Decreased levels are seen in people with an inefficient liver, excessive fat digestion, and possibly a diet low in nitrogen bearing foods.
Blood urea nitrogen: Increases can be caused by excessive protein intake, kidney damage, certain drugs, low fluid intake, intestinal bleeding, exercise, or heart failure. Decreased levels may be due to a poor diet, malabsorption, liver damage, or low nitrogen intake.

Creatinine: Low levels are sometimes seen in kidney damage, protein starvation, liver disease, or pregnancy. Elevated levels are sometimes seen in kidney disease due to the kidneys job of excreting creatinine, muscle degeneration, and some drugs involved in impairment of kidney function.
Glucose: Elevated in diabetes, liver disease, obesity, and pancreatitis due to steroid medications, or during stress. Low levels may be indicative of liver disease, overproduction of insulin, or hypothyroidism.
Total protein: Decreased levels may be due to poor nutrition, liver disease, malabsorption, diarrhea, or severe burns. Increased levels are seen in lupus, liver disease, chronic infections, leukemia, etc.

Albumin: High levels are rarely seen and are primarily due to dehydration. Low levels are seen in poor diets, diarrhea, fever, infection, liver disease, inadequate iron intake, third-degree burns and edemas, and hypocalcemia.

Recommendations for senior dogs

2009-05-18T06:22:00.001-07:00

260 Evergreen Ave. Huntington Station, NY 11746
631-367-7387 or (631) FOR-PETS
www.advancedcareforpets.com

Dogs older than seven years of age are considered senior pets. Senior dogs are in the stage of life in which the aging process is affecting every organ. Some organs “wear out” faster than others, so certain observations are especially important to make. The following is a list of key recommendations that we feel are important for older dogs.

Keep vaccinations current. Your veterinarian will determine the proper vaccine schedule for your senior pet’s lifestyle. Most senior pets will receive most vaccines every two to three years. Some vaccines with shorter duration of immunity such as the “kennel cough” vaccine, may be given more frequently.

Brush your pet frequently to prevent matts. This can contribute to skin infections and may hide skin tumors.

Clip toe nails as needed to prevent overgrowth. Long toe nails may cause the dog to stand and walk abnormally and result in pain or accelerate and exacerbate arthritic changes.

Keep plenty of fresh water available and monitor its consumption. Increases in water consumption or urination are often associated with conditions such as diabetes, kidney and liver disease.

Keep other pets from preventing your senior pet access to food and water.

Keep your senior pet indoors most of the time, especially in inclement weather.
Weigh on the same scale and record results at least every two months. Changes in weight can be an early indicator of disease.

How often should I take my senior dog to the veterinarian?
You should take your senior dog to the veterinarian at least once a year for an annual check-up.
Have your veterinarian examine your dog if you notice for any of the following:

1. Sustained significant increase in water consumption. (Abnormal is intake greater than 100 ml/kg/day or approximately 1 ½ cups (1two ounces)/day for a 10 pound dog)

2. Sustained significant increase in urination.

3. Weight loss.

4. Significant decrease in appetite or failure to eat for more than two consecutive days.

5. Significant increase in appetite.

6. Repeated vomiting.

7. Diarrhea that lasts over three days.

8. Difficulty in passing stool or urine.

9. Sudden loss of housetraining.

10. Lameness that lasts more than three days, or lameness in more than one leg.

11. Noticeable decrease in vision, especially if sudden in onset or pupils that do not constrict in bright light.

12. Masses, ulcerations (open sores), or multiple scabs on the skin that persist more than one week.

13. Foul mouth odor or drooling that lasts over two days.

14. Increasing size of the abdomen.

15. Increasing inactivity or amount of time spent sleeping.

16. Hair loss, especially if accompanied by scratching or if in specific areas (as opposed to generalized).

17. Persistent coughing or gagging.

18. Excessive panting.

19. Sudden collapse or bout of weakness.

20. Inability to chew dry food.

21. A seizure (convulsion or “fit”).

Firework and Thunderstorm Phobias

2009-05-14T08:24:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

FIREWORK AND THUNDERSTORM PHOBIAS

How to deal with the problem in the short term?
Drugs
These may be useful in some cases but should only be given under veterinary supervision. Remember they should be given so they take effect BEFORE any noise starts or panic sets in. This is usually at least an hour prior to the event. Sedatives may help the pet sleep through the event or be less aware of the stimuli but do not reduce anxiety. Anti-anxiety drugs may reduce anxiety and panic but may not calm the dog sufficiently. There are also drugs such as some of the antidepressants that can be used on an ongoing basis to try and prevent or reduce the effect of the stimulus should it arise. Then, short term drugs on the day of the fireworks (or storm) may be added to some of these drugs if needed. The dog appeasing pheromone (DAP®) and natural products such as melatonin might also be considered concurrently with other drugs.

Punishment
Don’t punish your dog when he is scared, it only confirms to him that there is something to be afraid of and will make him worse. In addition, if you are upset or anxious about your pet’s behavior, this will also make your dog more anxious.

Reassurance
Don’t fuss, pet or try to reassure your dog when he is scared since he may regard this as a reward for the behavior he is engaging in at that time, so that with each future exposure the behavior may become increasingly intense. Although it may be difficult, try to ignore any fearful behavior that occurs.

Training devices and commands
Practice training your dog to settle and focus on commands for favored treats and toys. Try and associate this training with a favored location in the house (one where the noise of the fireworks and storm might be less obvious – see below), and use some training cues (e.g. a favored CD, a favored blanket) each time you do the training (so that the command, location and cues help to immediately calm the dog). A head halter can also be used to help control, distract and calm the dog during training. Then at the time of the storm, use your commands, location, cues and head halter to try and calm the dog, while avoiding punishment or reassurance of the fearful response (see above).

Feeding
Feed your dog a good meal, rich in carbohydrate and with added vitamin B6, a few hours prior to the expected fireworks (or storm). To ensure a good appetite, it may be necessary not to feed him at any other time during the day. However, if your dog is prone to diarrhea when scared or at other times, please consult your veterinarian for advice regarding this strategy.

Environment
Make sure that the environment is safe and secure at all times. Even the most placid dog can behave unpredictably when frightened by noise and, should he bolt and escape, he could get injured or lost.

Can I do anything to reduce the impact of the noise and flashes from the fireworks or storms?
When the season begins, try to ensure that your dog can reside in a well-curtained or blacked out room when it starts to go dark. Blacking out the room removes the potentially additional problems of flashing lights, flares etc.

Provide plenty of familiar toys and games that might help to distract the pet.

Try to arrange company for your dog so that he is not abandoned in the room.

Make sure that all the windows and doors are shut so the sound is deadened as much as possible. Try taking your pet to a room or area of the house where the stimuli will be at their mildest and the dog can be most easily distracted. Sometimes nested cardboard boxes or a blanket placed over the cage can greatly mute the sound. Be certain however that there is enough air circulation so that the pet does not overheat.

Try to provide background sounds from the radio or television. Rap or similar music with a lot of constant drum beats does help. It does not necessarily have to be loud as long as there is a constant distracting beat to the music that will prevent him from concentrating on the noises outside. Other background noises and such as a fan running or even “white” noise devices can help to block outdoor noises.

Ignore the noises yourself and try to involve your pet in some form of active game.

Some products and exercises might be useful to further secure or calm the dog. Anxiety wraps, a cape or mat that reduces static, a head halter for control or TTouch therapy may help to calm the dog further.

My friend down the street has a dog that is not scared of loud noises and gets along well with mine. She has offered to lend me her dog for support. Shall I accept?

This may be an excellent strategy. Keeping the two together during the evenings may help. Playing with the non-fearful dog when your own becomes scared may help to encourage him to join in and reduce his fear.

Is there anything else that I can do that is worthwhile?
Don’t just ignore the problem because it only happens intermittently or for a few days each year. Instigate a desensitization program once the season is over so that you ensure your dog loses fear of the situation. Additional handouts are available that can help explain exactly how to go about this.

Things the pet industry won't tell you

2009-05-11T07:36:00.001-07:00

260 Evergreen Ave. Huntington Station, NY 11746
631-367-7387 or (631) FOR-PETS
www.advancedcareforpets.com

Things the Pet Industry Won't Tell You
1. Boarding
When Beverly Dame brought home her cocker spaniel, Wesley, after 12 days at a kennel near her home in Vermont, he had a gaping wound on his rear leg and was unable to climb stairs. Treatments cost her $231 on top of the $169 kennel fee. While the kennel owner denies any wrongdoing, he admits that grooming, not boarding, is the kennel's main business.
Kennels don't have to pass accreditation standards, nor are they rigorously monitored in most states. Inspections are left to local officials and can be spotty. How can you know if your pet will be housed in cramped, unhealthy conditions or four-star luxury? Ideally, you should pick one of the few kennels that not only are members of the American Boarding Kennels Association but also have been accredited by the group. Such kennels must comply with 200 strict standards, including providing an area where dogs can be exercised at least three times per day. You can find such kennels at www.abka.com.
If there are no accredited kennels in your vicinity, tour the facility before booking your pet there. Ask what health concerns pet supervisors are trained to detect — runny noses or urinary problems, for example. Also ask about warranties: Many kennels now offer warranty contracts that, for $2 to $5 per boarding, will reimburse owners for vet costs up to a certain amount — commonly $500 — for injuries a pet sustains while in a kennel's care.

2. Trainers
Because all owners want a well-behaved pet — and some fear their dog may attack someone — many people fork over as much as $300 an hour for obedience lessons only to wind up with a dog that does little more than sit and stay.
Part of the problem is that anyone can call himself a trainer. "You'll find trainers in pet stores, but sometimes you'll discover they were a cashier last week and then they read a book on training," says Babette Haggerty-Brennan, head trainer for Babette Haggerty's School for Dogs in Palm Beach, Fla. Look for one who has graduated from a program such as the one conducted by the Association of Pet Dog Trainers; you can find such trainers at www.apdt.com. Also, ask how many years of experience a trainer has — training the family dog as a teenager doesn't count — and how many dogs he's trained. Then ask for client references.
Group classes through local pet stores and community centers can cost substantially less, and good programs let you observe a class for free before signing up. Check to see how many dogs are being trained — ideally, no more than five per trainer — and how sophisticated the commands are. Basic obedience commands, such as "sit," "stay" and "down," are fine for puppies, but older dogs should learn commands for leaving the kitchen, for example, or "drop it" to let go of items picked up on the street.

3. "I'm a breeder all right . . . of health problems for pets."
All Ellen Szalinski wanted was a German shepherd puppy. What she got, after buying Bravo for $650 from a breeder, was a 4-pound, nine-week-old dog loaded with parasites and health problems. "As a consumer, I was an idiot," says the publications manager at Chicago's Children's Memorial Hospital. The breeder had promised that the puppy would bulk up in a few weeks, but two years and about $5,000 later, Bravo had endured knee operations and been treated for cartilage abnormalities and ruptured ligaments. "For what I spent, I could have made a down payment on a condo," Szalinski says, adding that Bravo is now healthy.
Poor nutrition and care during the first few weeks of life, while a puppy is still at the breeder's, can cause sickness for months or even years. You can increase your odds of getting a healthy purebred by choosing breeders who use the services of the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals, an organization that tests everything from thyroids to kidneys to hips; you can learn about specific breeds' health issues on OFA's Web site, www.offa.org. Ask breeders for a trial period in which to assess the pup's health and temperament. If you're not satisfied, you can return the dog for a full refund. A breeder who says no likely doesn't stand behind his animals.

4. "Ready for your annual cash-draining?"
Annual checkups should include a head-to-toe exam of a pet, along with vaccines, if necessary, and lab work for older pets. These exams can cost upwards of $150, and many vets tack on additional fees for such things as superfluous tests on a pet's blood and urine. Also, veterinarians and researchers debate the necessity of giving vaccines such as parvo and distemper annually.
How can you avoid overcharges? When it's time for an annual visit, ask the clinic to fax or e-mail an estimate and be prepared to discuss whether your pet needs the vaccines suggested, especially if it stays indoors. Ask about reduced rates on exams for additional pets; some vets offer discounts. Or go elsewhere: Organizations such as your local animal shelter, humane society or pet supplies store often provide services for a fraction of what a private-practice vet will charge.
Other services might be worth doing yourself — in particular, teeth cleaning. Toothbrushes designed in recent years that slip over a finger Finger Toothbrushes are much easier to run over a pet's teeth than traditional pet toothbrushes.

5. "We can 'insure' that you'll lose money."
With the boom in pet care services and veterinary specialists, as well as advances in veterinary techniques in recent years, animals are undergoing more extensive and costly procedures to fix what ails them. That's driving more owners to invest in pet insurance. A 2002 study of pet owners using AAHA hospitals found that one in 20 now carries pet health insurance, five times 1997's figure.
Unfortunately, pet insurance woes can be similar to human insurance woes. Premiums can run as high as $6,000 over a pet's lifetime, according to Consumer Reports, and preexisting conditions such as epilepsy or untreated hip dysplasia can disqualify your pet. If Sparky does qualify for a basic plan, reimbursements can be paltry, like a mere $10 per checkup.
If you shop well, however, insurance can sometimes be worthwhile. Emergency or surgery insurance plans cover large expenses for minimal premiums — often less than $10 a month, which isn't bad when you consider that procedures for accidents or cancer treatment can easily run north of $3,000. Premier Pet Insurance (www.ppins.com) and Petshealth Care Plan (www.petshealthplan.com) offer low-cost programs that cover up to $8,000 a year in emergency care. Pet Assure (www.petassure.com) costs $99 a year per dog and $59 per cat and offers 25 percent off the cost of major surgeries and other pet services at thousands of vet offices nationwide. Even without insurance, though, you may have recourse for big-ticket expenses. Many vets, if you ask, will negotiate weekly or monthly payment plans.

Obesity

2009-05-07T08:50:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

OBESITY

I have been told that my dog is obese and must be put on a diet. Is this true?
Nearly one-third (33%) of all adults in the United States are obese. Unfortunately, this same number now applies to our pets. Obesity leads to several diseases both in pets and people. Type II diabetes, heart disease and arthritis are the most common weight-related disorders.

Diet and weight reduction are the key to ensuring that your pet lives as long and healthy a life as possible.

What is obesity?
Obesity is defined as weighing 30% more than the ideal weight. With humans, this is fairly straightforward and can be determined by consulting weight and height charts. Dogs and cats are often diagnosed as obese by a combination of weight charts and body scoring.

A simplified form of body scoring follows:

VERY THIN
RIBS - Easily felt with no fat covering
TAIL BASE - Bones protrude with no tissue between the skin and bone
SIDE VIEW - Severe abdominal tuck or “drawn” appearance
OVERHEAD VIEW - Exaggerated hourglass shape

UNDERWEIGHT
RIBS - Easily felt with no fat covering
TAIL BASE - Bones are raised with little tissue between the skin and bone
SIDE VIEW - Abdominal tuck
OVERHEAD VIEW - Significant hourglass shape

IDEAL
RIBS - Easily felt with slight (1/2”) fat cover
TAIL BASE - Smooth but bones can be felt under a thin layer of fat
SIDE VIEW - Abdominal tuck
OVERHEAD VIEW - Well-proportioned waist is present

OVERWEIGHT
RIBS - Difficult to feel with moderate (>1/2”) fat cover
TAIL BASE - Some thickening or widening but bones can be felt under a moderate layer of fat
SIDE VIEW - No abdominal tuck or waist
OVERHEAD VIEW - Back is slightly broadened

OBESE
RIBS - Difficult to feel under thick fat cover
TAIL BASE - Thickened and difficult to feel under a thick layer of fat
SIDE VIEW - Fat hangs down from the abdomen and there is no waist
OVERHEAD VIEW - Markedly wide

If my dog is overweight, will his behavior change?
Most overweight or obese dogs are less active and do not play as much as normal dogs. These pets may be reluctant to climb stairs or jump into cars and often pant excessively after very minor exertion.

What is the cause of obesity?
Obesity is the accumulation of excess energy stored as fat. It occurs when your pet receives more calories then he needs and expends. Hypothyroidism is another cause of obesity and weight problems. Any overweight dog should be tested for hypothyroidism before beginning a weight loss program.

I had my dog neutered. Do you think this caused the problem?
It is very unlikely that neutering caused your pet’s weight problem. There is no scientific research that concludes that neutering causes obesity in dogs.

My dog can’t be obese because he only eats a small amount of food every day.

Obesity often develops insidiously. We think we are feeding our dogs only small quantities of food but tend to forget the treats and table foods. These treats add calories and result in weight gain. Even a few calories can add up over time.

What can I do?
With today’s advances in nutrition, weight loss has never been easier. Your veterinarian will design a safe and effective weight loss program to meet your dog’s lifestyle.

Encourage brisk, thirty-minute walks twice daily. Discontinue feeding table foods and treats. Instead, offer carrots, broccoli or veterinary-approved low-calorie treats.

Most pets can lose weight if you adhere to these recommendations. Weight loss in pets and humans is made up of an interaction between reduced caloric intake (eating less) and increasing caloric expenditures (more physical activity). The great news is that weight reduction is about 60% diet and 40% exercise. Weight loss is often a matter of diligence and persistence. Remember that the reason you are doing this is to help your pet live as long and healthy a life as possible. Who knows, you both may benefit from this diet!

Inflammatory Bowel Disease

2009-05-06T10:18:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

INFLAMMATORY BOWEL DISEASE

What is inflammatory bowel disease?
Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD) is a chronic disease of the intestinal tract. Occasionally, the stomach may be involved. Most dogs with IBD have a history of recurrent or chronic vomiting or diarrhea. During periods of vomiting or diarrhea, the dog may lose weight but is normal otherwise.

What causes this disease?
The cause of IBD is poorly understood. In fact, it appears there are several causes. Whatever the cause, the end result is that the lining of the intestine is invaded by inflammatory cells. An allergic-type response then occurs within the intestinal tract. This inflammation interferes with the ability to digest and absorb nutrients.

For some dogs, diet plays a role in causing IBD. Bacterial proteins may be involved in other cases. In most instances, an exact underlying cause cannot be identified.

How is IBD diagnosed?
Diagnostic tests for IBD range from fecal evaluations to blood tests to intestinal biopsies. Depending on the results, special diets may then be tried depending on which part of the bowel appears to be involved. These diets include hypoallergenic foods, low residue diets or high fiber diets. In addition, if it appears from the blood tests that bacterial overgrowth is present, several medications may be administered.

Is IBD treatable?
When a diagnosis of IBD is made, the dog is usually placed on a hypoallergenic, low residue diet for eight to twelve weeks. If the dietary trial does not result in improvement, medication may be used to control the problem. Since not all dogs respond to the same medication, a series of drugs may be necessary.

What is the prognosis?
Once the appropriate drugs or diet is determined, many dogs remain on these for life, although dosages of the drugs may eventually be decreased. Occasionally, a dog will be able to stop drug therapy in the future.

Most dogs do well for many years while others require alterations in therapy every few months. Unfortunately, a few dogs will fail to respond to treatment.

Some severe forms of canine inflammatory bowel disease will eventually progress to intestinal cancer. This finding is well documented in human beings and, in recent years, it has also been shown to occur in dogs.

Nutritional Blood Testing

2009-05-05T07:44:00.001-07:00

The Power to Alter Your Pet’s Genes' Behavior
You may not realize it, but you and your pet have spent your lives altering your genetic activity. When you took your first sip of wine or beer, you turned up the volume on your body's genetic ability to detoxify alcohol. Every summer, when you strive for that perfect tan, you activate the genes that protect your skin. Genes are not a fixed set of preprogrammed instructions. They are a dynamic, active part of your pet’s life, responding each day to the environment and their diet. ”Naturopathy” or “Nutrigenomics” addresses your pet’s individual needs and works with their body to help maintain good health. Each pet has different problems and considerations, which is why each pet needs its own specifically individualized dietary supplementation.

Dr. Michel Selmer, has been helping his patients discover a health, vitality, and joy in life that their owner’s never thought possible, simply by having them alter what they eat, which supplements they were given, and how they exercised. Yet he always assumed that the genetic part of our story had already been written. Like most of us, he believed the genes we inherited from our parents were the cards we were dealt. But recently, Dr. Selmer began to discover that we have an enormous power to improve our pet’s lives, even when it comes to their genes. True, we can't do anything about which chromosomes they got from their parents; we can't add new genes to the mix or eradicate old ones. But the genes they got at conception are only the beginning of the story. Dr. Selmer belives that we have the capacity to turn up the volume on some genes and silence others, vastly improving our capacity to provide our pet’s good health and happiness. What is a Nutritional Blood Test? The Nutritional Blood Test, or NBT, is a diagnostic tool used by Dr. Selmer who recognizes the importance of integrating nutrition with patient care. The NBT assesses the health of internal organs and the available vitamins, minerals and enzymes required for the metabolic processes. Using blood results and medical history, the NBT prioritizes the nutrients required to help optimize organ function and balance metabolism. It then matches the results to specific Nutraceuticals that support a clinical response. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to your other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process. Even if the patient is already using supplements, the NBT enhances the ability to dispense them effectively. The NBT is not meant to diagnose a particular disease, recommend medical therapy or replace current diagnostic protocols. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process even if you’re already using supplements for your animal.

How Does the NBT Work? The levels of certain chemicals in the blood are the end result of the metabolic processes and the utilization or excretion of the metabolic wastes from the body. The NBT looks beyond chemical testing and quantitative assays to identify imbalances that are due to poor nutrient absorption, utilization or metabolism. One contributing factor to the reported steady rise in chronic degenerative diseases in animals is the inadequate levels of vitamins, minerals, enzymes and vital nutrients found in many highly processed, commercially prepared foods. Over time, the animal’s nutrient reserves can become depleted, paving the way to disease. The NBT is a valuable tool for correcting these deficiencies and guiding sick animals back to health. The Optimum Range Within the normal blood reference range, there are subtle gradations of tissue integrity and organ efficiency that can be measured. The NBT assessment relies on an Optimum Range, an additional set of parameters that are narrower than the traditional reference range and in which organs and metabolic processes are functioning at peak efficiency. Results outside of the optimum range do not necessarily indicate disease. They do, however, indicate that a particular organ system is not functioning at optimal efficiency, and may require nutritional support. Just as the interpretation outside the normal range forms the basis for the diagnosis of a specific disease, the optimum range interpretation forms the basis for determining optimal- not just “passable”- health. The NBT compares the blood results to the optimum range. When a value falls outside of the optimum range, the underlying physiology and metabolism, as well as the specific glands involved and nutrients used by the body for these processes, are assessed. The assessment is further evaluated in combination with the diagnosis and the clinical signs, resulting in a recommended NBT Nutraceutical Program that is specific to your animal.

The Results of the NBT
The NBT provides a unique veterinary-client lab report that prescribes the most effective combination of nutrients including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars, specifically blended to match the imbalances found in the animal's blood. These nutrients are precisely dosed according to the animal's weight and the severity of the imbalances or deficiencies The nutrient combination, referred to as the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy, is given orally in an easy-to-use powder along with symptom-oriented liquid remedies. In the powdered form, the designated number of “scoopfuls” is simply mixed with the animal's food. Liquids are given orally, separate from the food. All remedies are custom-prescribed and individually labeled. Advantages of Using Custom Blended Powder and Liquid Formulas Palatable
Easy to Administer
Dosed By Weight Of Animal
Food Grade Quality
Scientifically Linked to Blood Work
Free of Chemical Additives, Preservatives And Fillers
Maximum Assimilation And High Bio Availability Arrange for your animal to visit Dr. Selmer and request a Nutritional Blood Test (NBT). The NBT includes your animal’s routine blood work (CBC, Super Chem (w/LDH), T-4) along with the 9945 NBT form or a blood test questionnaire. After receiving the NBT results (typically within 3 to 5 days) Dr. Selmer will consult with you to go over your animal’s NBT results, after which, you may order the custom-blended nutraceutical powder or symptom-oriented liquid remedies.If you would like to start a NBT, please call our Dr. Selmer at (631) 367-7387 or send an email to us at drselmer@optonline.net

How to make your own dog food

2009-05-05T07:25:00.001-07:00

How to Make Your Own Dog Food
Suggested Ingredients for Homemade Dog Food

Recent dog food recalls make homemade dog food recipes popular. Here's some ideas for making your own.
Many popular dog foods have recently been recalled because of food poisoning which in some cases has been fatal. North American stores have been pulling up to 48 brands off the shelves that Menu foods supplies. (Source: Animal Owners Frantic on Pet Food Recall, Matthew Verrinder, March 18th, 2007)
If you are concerned about the health and well being of your dog and wish to ensure they are getting uncontaminated foods there are ways of making your own healthy dog food. A suggested formula is 75% carbohydrates to 25% meat. A simple dog food recipe is to combine and cook brown rice, ground meat, vegetables, water and a small amount of brewers yeast. Dogs can’t digest vegetables very well, so they need to go through the food processor thoroughly before adding. Amounts of water vary depending on whether you want dry or wet food. Your dog food should be served at room temperature.
Ingredient ideas for dog food:
· Rice is a good carbohydrate for dogs. Brown rice is preferable as it has more nutrients.
· Brewers yeast which can be found in some grocers and health stores.
· Flour, such as corn flour, soy flour or whole wheat flour.
· Codliver oil or flaxseed in small amounts adds omega 3 and helps keep their coats shiny.
· Garlic can help get rid of tape worms and fleas as well as fight infection. (caution as large amounts can cause illness in dogs)
· Meats suggested to use are liver, beef, tuna, lamb or chicken. It’s easier to add to food if the meat is ground.
· Dogs also enjoy peanut butter and biscuits can be made with them by adding flour, bone meal and/or powdered milk, brewers yeast and even carrots. Peanuts are one of the few nuts that are safe for your dog.
· Some vegetables are ok such as carrots, broccoli and spinach, but they need to be put through a food processor first to aid in digestion. (Broccoli is not good in large amounts.)
· Bonemeal may need to be added to ensure they are getting calcium. Raw meaty bones are a good source of calcium. Powdered milk is also a popular ingredient in dog food.
Some foods to avoid which may be dangerous to dogs:
· Chocolate which can cause seizures in dogs.
· Coffee and tea can cause similar problems as chocolate.
· Raisins and grapes can cause kidney failure.
· Nutmeg can also cause seizures.
· Raw eggs could contain salmonella, so they’re not worth the risk.
· Onions are not advised as they can interfere with blood circulation.
· Macadamia nuts can cause dogs to have tremors and lead to paralysis.
· Other food cautions include moldy foods, yeast dough and fruit pits. Many fruit pits contain cyanide.
For more information on the dog food recall, see the newsletter at www.advancedcareforpets.com

"Our humanity is not measured by how we treat other people. Our humanity is measured by how we treat animals." -Chuck Palahniuk.

Sincerely,
Michel Selmer, DVM

Euthanasia - When is it time?

2009-05-04T13:39:00.001-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

Euthanasia
When is it Time?

The decision regarding the euthanasia of a beloved pet may be the most difficult decision one makes in one’s entire life; obviously, the consequences are irrevocable. Whatever the decision is, it should be one that you can always look back upon and know that the best decision was made and that you would make the same decision over again in the same situation.
So how do you know if it is time? There are several criteria used in evaluating life quality and you should consider them carefully.
Is your pet eating? Basically, quality life involves eating or at least interest in food. An animal that is hungry has vitality that must be considered, though this is not the only consideration.
Is your pet comfortable? The pet should be free of debilitating pains, cramps, aches or even the psychological pain that comes from the development of incontinence in an animal who has been housebroken for an entire life.
Does the pet still enjoy favorite activities? The elderly pet does not necessarily need to continue chasing balls or jumping after discs but he should enjoy sleeping comfortably, favorite resting spots, the company of family, etc. You know your pet better than any one and only you can truly answer these questions.
Dr. Alice Villalobos, the veterinarian who started Pawspice, a quality of life program for terminal pets, has published a scoring system for life quality called The HHHHHMM scale. The letters stand for: Hurt, Hunger, Hydration, Hygiene, Happiness, Mobility, and More Good Days than Bad.

Quality of Life Scale: The HHHHHMM Scale

Pet caregivers can use this Quality of Life Scale to determinethe success of pawspice care. Score patients using a scale of 1 to 10.
Score
Criterion
1-10
HURT - Adequate pain control, including breathing ability, is first and foremost on the scale. Is the pet's pain successfully managed? Is oxygen necessary?
1-10
HUNGER - Is the pet eating enough? Does hand feeding help? Does the patient require a feeding tube?
1-10
HYDRATION - Is the patient dehydrated? For patients not drinking enough, use subcutaneous fluids once or twice daily to supplement fluid intake.
1-10
HYGIENE - The patient should be brushed and cleaned, particularly after elimination. Avoid pressure scores and keep all wounds clean.
1-10
HAPPINESS - Does the pet express joy and interest? Is the pet responsive to things around him or her (family, toys, etc.)? Is the pet depressed, lonely, anxious, bored or afraid? Can the pet's bed be close to the family activities and not be isolated?
1-10
MOBILITY - Can the patient get up without assistance? Does the pet need human or mechanical help (e.g., a cart)? Does the pet feel like going for a walk? Is the pet having seizures or stumbling? (Some caregivers feel euthanasia is preferable to amputation, yet an animal who has limited mobility but is still alert and responsive can have a good quality of life as long as caregivers are committed to helping the pet.)
1-10
MORE GOOD DAYS THAN BAD - When bad days outnumber good days, quality of life might be compromised. When a healthy human-animal bond is no longer possible, the caregiver must be made aware the end is near. The decision needs to be made if the pet is suffering. If death comes peacefully and painlessly, that is okay.
*TOTAL
*A total over 35 points represents acceptable life quality
Adapted by Villalobos, A.E., Quality of Life Scale Helps Make Final Call, VPN, 09/2004, for Canine and Feline Geriatric Oncology Honoring the Human-Animal Bond, by Blackwell Publishing, Table 10.1, released 2006.

If you are considering euthanasia, discuss the pet’s condition with your veterinarian prior to making a decision or even coming in for an appointment. Every veterinarian has a story or two about the pet that was brought in for euthanasia but turned out to have a relatively simple problem and ultimately achieved a complete recovery.The mental process of making the euthanasia decision is heart breaking and you do not want to have to undergo this process twice but, on the other hand, you do not want to euthanize a pet with a treatable disease. Many times people come in for their euthanasia appointment having already made their decision when, in fact, their pet has a reversible problem.
Do not assume your pet’s condition is untreatable.Call your veterinarian first and discuss the situationbefore you are too far into this emotional process to turn back.
Use the medical resources available to youto get all the facts and options before making this decision.

Should You be Present?
Again, this is a very personal decision. On one hand, you probably do not want your pet to be alone with strangers in the final moments but on the other hand you may not be up to watching your pet’s death. Every owner wants to think of euthanasia as a gentle slipping into death, much like falling asleep. In reality, the pet will probably not close his eyes, and there may be a final twitch, gasp, or even urination. Some animal hospitals do not allow pet owners to be present for euthanasia as it may be disturbing to an owner. To help ease this transition between and death, sometimes a tranquilizer is given first to alleviate some of the above, but you should keep in mind that this may not be how you want to remember your pet.
The issue of children being present is a personal one and the above information should be considered.

How is the Procedure Performed?
Different clinics have different approaches. At my clinic, appropriate forms must be signed in order for the procedure to take place. If the owner is to be present, an intravenous catheter may be placed. This takes a few minutes and is usually done while the owner pays for the procedure and deals with paperwork. The payment transaction is done prior to the procedure so that the owner will not have to tearfully sign checks or credit card slips just following the emotional height of the procedure.
The intravenous catheter serves several purposes. First, the euthanasia solution is painful if administered outside the vein. The catheter ensures clean access to the vein, even if the owner is holding the pet. The catheter also allows for a sedative to be administered prior to the euthanasia solution.
After the catheter is placed, the pet re-joins the owner in the exam room. The owner may spend some last time alone with the pet if desired.
The procedure itself is very fast. If a sedative is to be used, it is given first so that the pet is euthanized from a sleeping status. The euthanasia solution, generally dyed a bright color so that it cannot be mistaken for anything else, is delivered and death comes peacefully in a matter of seconds. The owner is allowed to remain with the pet for final private goodbyes. At the end of this time, after the last goodbyes and caresses are completed, the owner simply exits the room when ready and the hospital staff takes over.
Let the veterinarian know in advance if you would like a lock of hair or the collar as a keepsake.

What Happens To My Pet Afterwards?
Most clinics offer several disposal methods.
1. A rendering provider can be contracted to dispose of pet remains. This is via a chemical process called rendering, and is sometimes free of charge.
2. As another option, your pet’s remains can be part of a group cremation. There is usually an extra charge for this service.
3. If you wish, you may have a private cremation and the ashes will be returned to you either in an urn of your choosing or a cedar box (the basic option). There is an additional charge for the service and the urn.
4. Private services can sometimes be arranged through local providers.
5. Many city ordinances prohibit the burial of a pet’s body at home, so check what is legal in your area.
Autopsy (called necropsy for animals) is available and is compatible with any of the options listed above. There are different levels of detail for this procedure. If you have unanswered questions or a legal interest in these results, please discuss the details with your veterinarian.

Grieving
Grief is a natural part of loss and has predicable stages. Do not feel ashamed or embarrassed about grieving for the loss of an animal. Our pets are beloved family members and their loss is keenly felt. Still, it is important to realize that death is a natural end to life and that love will always continue. There are many resources available to assist you in your grieving process.
The UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine has a Pet Loss Support Program that offers toll-free telephone support to callers. The hours are Monday through Friday, from 6:30 am to 9:30 pm Pacific Standard Time.1-800-565-1526
In addition, the following on-line areas may be helpful:
www.petloss.com www.in-memory-of-pets.com/pet-loss.htm
Helpful books are available as well:
Final Farewell: Preparing For and Mourning the Loss of Your PetBy Marty Tousley and Katherine Heuerman. 85 pages; illustrated. Our Pals Publishing Co, 3629 N 40th Ave. Phoenix AZ 85019. 1997
Healing the Pain of Pet Loss: Letters in Memoriumedited by Kymberly Smith, The Charles Press.
Absent Friend: Coping with the Loss of a Treasured Friendby Laura and Martyn Lee, pub. by Henston Press, High Wycombe, Bucks, England, 1992.

The Rainbow Bridge
Just this side of heaven is a place called Rainbow Bridge. When an animal dies that has been especially close to someone here, that pet goes to Rainbow Bridge. There are meadows and hills for all of our special friends so they can run and play together. There is plenty of food, water and sunshine, and our friends are warm and comfortable. All the animals who had been ill and old are restored to health and vigor. Those who were hurt or maimed are made whole and strong again, just as we remember them in our dreams of days and times gone by. The animals are happy and content, except for one small thing; they each miss someone very special to them, who had to be left behind.
They all run and play together, but the day comes when one suddenly stops and looks into the distance. His bright eyes are intent. His eager body quivers. Suddenly he begins to run from the group, flying over the green grass, his legs carrying him faster and faster. You have been spotted, and when you and your special friend finally meet, you cling together in joyous reunion, never to be parted again. The happy kisses rain upon your face; your hands again caress the beloved head, and you look once more into the trusting eyes of your pet, so long gone from your life but never absent from your heart. Then you cross Rainbow Bridge together...

Laparoscopic Spay

2009-05-04T06:21:00.000-07:00

Because Your Pet deserves the Best Care available

What is Laparoscopy?

Laparoscopy is a minimally invasive technique for viewing the internal structures of the abdomen. A laparoscope (camera) inserted through a small incision in the abdomen magnifies internal structures of the abdomen on a TV monitor for thorough examination. Additional small incisions are made to facilitate the use of surgical instruments. The most common application of laparoscopy is biopsy. In recent years, laparoscopy has been adopted as less traumatic and less painful alternative to traditional spays.

What is the Difference?

Traditional Spays

In traditional spays a 2” to 3” incision is made in the abdomen through which the ovarian ligament is torn from the abdominal wall. This tearing may cause bruising to the abdominal wall and postoperative pain. By performing the procedure laparoscopically the patient experiences less trauma and minimal pain.

Laparoscopic Spays

In laparoscopic spays the procedure is performed through two or three small incisions in the abdomen, typically 3/16” in size depending the size of the animal. With the laparoscope we are able to perform the surgery with magnified views of the organs, allowing for greater precision. The ovarian ligament is carefully cut and cauterized, rather than torn. With laparoscopic spays we are able to offer our patients reduced pain, minimal recovery time and less trauma than with traditional spays.

Advantages of Laparoscopic Spays over Traditional Surgery

1.) Smaller incisions are less painful and reduce recovery time.
2.) Controlled cuts minimize pain and bruising caused by tearing tissue in traditional spays.
3.) Simple to perform and involves few complications
4.) Allows for excellent visualization of abdominal organs.
5.) The entire surgery is performed through a few tiny incisions rather than a larger abdominal opening.
6.) In larger breed dog’s gastropexy can be performed at the time of spay.

The Dangers of Sugar Free Gum.......

2009-05-02T06:05:00.000-07:00

Xylitol Toxicosis

What is Xylitol?
Xylitol is a white, crystalline sugar alcohol that is used as a sugar substitute sweetener in many products. In the United States, the use of xylitol has grown rapidly over the last few years. It is increasingly found in sugar-free gum, candy, and foods. It is also available in granulated form for baking. It is popular among diabetics and those on low-carbohydrate diets. It also is increasingly being included in toothpastes and other oral hygiene products due to its anti-cavity properties.
How is Xylitol Different in Humans than Dogs?
In humans, xylitol is absorbed slowly and has little to no effect on blood sugar or insulin levels. However, in dogs, xylitol is quickly absorbed into the bloodstream. It then acts as a strong promoter of insulin release, which causes profound hypoglycemia (low blood sugar). In dogs, xylitol can also cause liver failure, bleeding, and death.
Xylitol’s effect on insulin and blood glucose in cats is not clear at this time.

How much Xylitol is Toxic to my Pet?
It takes very little xylitol to cause signs of toxicity in dogs. The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center (APCC) has reported that dogs ingesting greater than 0.1 g/kg of xylitol should be considered at risk for hypoglycemia. At doses exceeding 0.5 g/kg, there is risk of liver failure and other more serious effects.
It is often difficult to determine exactly how many grams of xylitol were ingested. Although the xylitol content is more commonly listed on food products, this is not the case with many chewing gums. In general, we estimate that one or two pieces of gum could cause hypoglycemia in a 20 lb dog. For granulated (baking) xylitol, one cup weighs about 190 grams.
What are the Symptoms? What Tests can be done to Diagnose Xylitol Toxicity?
Diagnosis is made on history of ingestion, symptoms, and blood work. Because of the rapid progression of the toxic effect, testing for xylitol in the blood is not realistic.
· Vomiting is often the first symptom
· Signs of hypoglycemia (lethargy, weakness) occur rapidly
· Diarrhea, collapse and seizures may be seen.
Dogs that develop acute liver failure may not show signs of hypoglycemia immediately after ingestion of xylitol.

What other Toxins Should be Ruled Out?
Other causes of low blood sugar should be ruled out (overdose of insulin, young or toy breed – related hypoglycemia, etc). In addition, many other toxins can cause liver disease (sago palms, hepatotoxic mushrooms, Tylenol ®, aflatoxins, other drugs). Infectious liver diseases, shunts, and cancer must be considered as well.

Is Xylitol Poisoning Treatable?
· All xylitol exposures should be evaluated by a veterinarian immediately. This is because of xylitol’s rapid absorption, which carries a risk of severe hypoglycemia, liver failure, and even death.
· There is no antidote for xylitol toxicity.
· Remember that even tiny doses—1 to 2 pieces of xylitol-containing gum-- can be toxic to a dog.
· Do not induce vomiting or give anything orally unless directed by your veterinarian.
What is the Prognosis?
The prognosis is good for uncomplicated hypoglycemia when treatment can be instituted promptly. Liver failure and bleeding disorders generally carry a poor prognosis. Dogs that develop stupor or coma have a grave prognosis.
Is it an Epidemic?
“In the last few years, xylitol has grown from being a rare (or non-existent) problem to being a very common one. The dictionary defines epidemic as ‘affecting or tending to affect a disproportionately large number of individuals within a population, community, or region at the same time’…so… technically you can call xylitol an epidemic.” - Eric Dunayer, MS, VMD, DABT, DABVT; ASPCA APCC; VIN, 8/16/2008

The number of products containing xylitol has been steadily rising over the last few years, with a resultant surge in xylitol cases reported to the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.

Chart prepared by Carlye Rose, D.V.M., Diplomate A.B.V.P.

Xylitol poisoning is preventable. Xylitol-containing foods or gums should not be consumed in pet-owning households.

One Boy's Best Friend

2009-05-01T08:09:00.000-07:00

(CBS) Eleven-year-old Parker Weishaar is just about the most well-behaved kid you'll ever meet — now.Parker has a form of autism called Asperger's syndrome. CBS News correspondent Steve Hartman reports that one of the symptoms can be violent outbursts.His parents, Wendy and Mark, "couldn't deal with it. We would have incidences in the classroom where he would kind of clear off the bookshelves."They say they tried everything — but not until recently did they find something that really seemed to fix the problem."Almost instantly," they say of the transformation. "Some things changed right away and we'd each look at each other and go, 'Oh my goodness.'"What worked for them was Candy. Not the sweet stuff — a dog … named Candy. She's a certified assistance dog whose job basically is to be with Parker; to stick right by his side, 24/7."She helps me, she calms me down, she lets me know she's there when I'm about to have a meltdown," Parker says.Wendy and Mark got the dog about a year ago, and Parker hasn't had an outburst since.But that's just half the story. Kids with autism have a lot of other issues, too — and for those, there's this: dog agility. Parker says it was "really, extremely tough" to learn at first.Although it's generally the domain of middle-aged women, Parker's mom says the sport is also "great" autism therapy. "You're doing speech therapy, you've got to get commands out … while you're running … and you've got to keep your body in control when you don't have good motor movement," says Wendy.Part of dog agility is learning how to handle disappointment — especially with this dog. She had yet to actually finish a course. But Parker didn't seem to mind."Anybody who has autism, anybody in the world would just benefit from this," Parker says. "She's just like a healing dog."Healing for Parker. The idea is still new and unproven, but for one boy, on one day, there was never any doubt his dog had some kind of magic.During her last race, something got into Candy. The dog that had never finished the course before did every "through" and made every "over." It was an absolutely flawless performance.Candy not only finished for the first time — she actually finished first, earning a kiss from Parker. That's the kind of autistic outburst he and his family can live with.

Parasites, Pets and Kids

2009-05-01T07:45:00.000-07:00

Recommendations for Senior Dogs......

2009-04-30T09:30:00.000-07:00

260 Evergreen Ave. Huntington Station, NY 11746
631-367-7387 or (631) FOR-PETS
www.advancedcareforpets.com

Dogs older than seven years of age are considered senior pets. Senior dogs are in the stage of life in which the aging process is affecting every organ. Some organs “wear out” faster than others, so certain observations are especially important to make. The following is a list of key recommendations that we feel are important for older dogs.

Keep vaccinations current. Your veterinarian will determine the proper vaccine schedule for your senior pet’s lifestyle. Most senior pets will receive most vaccines every two to three years. Some vaccines with shorter duration of immunity such as the “kennel cough” vaccine, may be given more frequently.
Brush your pet frequently to prevent matts. This can contribute to skin infections and may hide skin tumors.

Clip toe nails as needed to prevent overgrowth. Long toe nails may cause the dog to stand and walk abnormally and result in pain or accelerate and exacerbate arthritic changes.

Keep plenty of fresh water available and monitor its consumption. Increases in water consumption or urination are often associated with conditions such as diabetes, kidney and liver disease.

Keep other pets from preventing your senior pet access to food and water.

Keep your senior pet indoors most of the time, especially in inclement weather.
Weigh on the same scale and record results at least every two months. Changes in weight can be an early indicator of disease.

How often should I take my senior dog to the veterinarian?
You should take your senior dog to the veterinarian at least once a year for an annual check-up.
Have your veterinarian examine your dog if you notice for any of the following:

1. Sustained significant increase in water consumption. (Abnormal is intake greater than 100 ml/kg/day or approximately 1 ½ cups (1two ounces)/day for a 10 pound dog)

2. Sustained significant increase in urination.

3. Weight loss.

4. Significant decrease in appetite or failure to eat for more than two consecutive days.

5. Significant increase in appetite.

6. Repeated vomiting.

7. Diarrhea that lasts over three days.

8. Difficulty in passing stool or urine.

9. Sudden loss of housetraining.

10. Lameness that lasts more than three days, or lameness in more than one leg.

11. Noticeable decrease in vision, especially if sudden in onset or pupils that do not constrict in bright light.

12. Masses, ulcerations (open sores), or multiple scabs on the skin that persist more than one week.

13. Foul mouth odor or drooling that lasts over two days.

14. Increasing size of the abdomen.

15. Increasing inactivity or amount of time spent sleeping.

16. Hair loss, especially if accompanied by scratching or if in specific areas (as opposed to generalized).

17. Persistent coughing or gagging.

18. Excessive panting.

19. Sudden collapse or bout of weakness.

20. Inability to chew dry food.

21. A seizure (convulsion or “fit”).

Arthritis

2009-04-29T12:13:00.000-07:00

Arthritis is a complex condition involving inflammation of one or more joints. There are many causes of arthritis in pets. In most cases, the degree of arthritis is related to the age of the animal.

What causes arthritis?
Arthritis can be classified as primary arthritis such as rheumatoid arthritis and secondary arthritis which occurs as a result of joint instability that leads to damage of the subchondral bone that line the joints. Secondary arthritis is the most common form diagnosed in veterinary patients. The most common type of arthritis is osteoarthritis (OA) which is also known as degenerative joint disease (DJD). Some common causes of secondary arthritis include hip dysplasia, obesity, cranial cruciate ligament rupture, and so forth.

Other causes include joint infection, often as the result of bites or following joint trauma and damage.

Rheumatoid arthritis is an immune mediated, erosive, inflammatory condition. Cartilage and bone are eroded within affected joints and the condition can progress to complete joint fixation (ankylosis). It may affect single joints or multiple joints may be involved (polyarthritis). In certain dog breeds Rheumatoid Arthritis (RA) factors can be detected with blood tests. Other types of immune mediated arthritis can be non-erosive, such as arthritis that is associated with Systemic Lupus Erythematosis (SLE). SLE is often accompanied by other clinical signs in addition to the arthritis.
Infective or septic arthritis can be caused by a variety of microorganisms, such as bacteria, viruses and fungi. Septic arthritis normally only affects a single joint and the condition results in swelling, fever, heat and pain in the joint. With septic arthritis, your pet is likely to stop eating and become depressed.

How do we treat arthritis?
Treatment will depend on the cause of arthritis. Immune mediated and rheumatoid arthritis are usually treated with high doses of corticosteroids, often with dramatic improvement. The control of these conditions often involves the long-term use of corticosteroids and other drugs such as immunosuppressive or cytotoxic agents.

The treatment of septic arthritis involves determining the type of microorganism involved and its antibiotic sensitivity. Antibiotics are usually administered for a minimum of a month and analgesics (pain relief medications) are necessary to combat pain and inflammation.

Analgesics such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are the most common form of treatment for osteoarthritis. It is important to select these medications with care since some dogs are more sensitive than others to the potential side-effects of analgesics. The most common side-effects of analgesics include decreased appetite, vomiting and diarrhea. Pre-medication blood tests must be performed to make sure that the pet can safely metabolize and eliminate the medication and then periodic blood tests are necessary to ensure continued safe usage.

If you have any concerns or questions about the administration of any medication, please discuss theme with your veterinarian.

Puppies and Where to Get One

2009-04-28T07:50:00.000-07:00

Puppies and Where to Get One
A puppy is a baby dog. Like many other species of babies, baby dogs are built to appeal deeply to the emotions of adults. The normal human response to a baby is a deep desire to nurture the young one. This is good for the survival of babies. However, it’s not good for you in making the best decisions about adopting a new dog. This creature in a baby suit is a real live dog concealing 10 to 15 years of serious responsibility, including emotional highs and lows, more expense than most people would believe, changing your life, and hard work that tends to come without the opportunity to plan.
Thus the first thing to know about selecting a puppy is to stay away from puppies while you research! Don’t lay eyeballs on a puppy until all the questions have been answered and you are as sure as you can possibly be that you are ready to take on this responsibility.
Puppy adoptions are usually made without proper preparation. The type of research for the right refrigerator doesn’t work with puppies. And let’s remember, we are talking about DOGS, because there is a dog inside that puppy who will take over the body in just months!
Then will your housetraining and puppy-biting of humans be solved? Maybe some puppy problems will be solved, if you’ve done your homework, though it’s definitely no sure thing. But adolescence makes it obvious that puppyhood was, well, child’s play. Many dogs lose their homes in this phase when the body is nearly full-sized and the brain requires a knowledgeable human’s management and training.
After adolescence, the dog matures, and if there’s any aggression lurking in there, you may have a dog you absolutely cannot control. Female dogs are often fairly mature by age two years, males by age three. Small dogs may mature younger. Aggression is a problem with any size dog, but the large dogs are the ones who seriously hurt people, and on rare occasions kill.
Small dogs more frequently lose their homes over housetraining, which takes longer and may never reach the reliability it can in large dogs. Larger dogs lose homes over destructively chewing human possessions, knocking people down, and biting humans.
Adopting a puppy you are not equipped to raise, train, and manage for the dog’s entire lifespan is not fair to the puppy. Doing that keeps the dog from having a chance to be adopted by someone who would provide lifelong care. Every aspect of responsible dog ownership turns on the adoption of the dog in the first place.
So when you consider any particular puppy for yourself, ask “Am I the right person to take care of this dog for the next 10 to 15 years? Do I know the strengths, weaknesses, habits and needs of this kind of dog? Do I want a puppy for now, or do I want to become a person with a dog family member I will care for until death?”
You can see that questions like these are impossible to answer objectively when cuddling and cooing over a cute puppy. So stay away from puppies while you carefully consider getting one.
Skipping Puppyhood
One way to get the baby stars out of your eyes is to skip past puppyhood to the adult dog. You could go to the adolescent dog, if you’re a glutton for punishment. You need to be a pretty good trainer to happily handle an adolescent dog, or have good training help available quickly. It’s best to have both.
Adolescence involves jumping up on people, dragging you on the leash, the major destructive chewing stage, sexual maturity, and a temperament that may change when the dog finishes maturing and from day to day in the meantime. Proper training of a puppy is complicated and requires that you seriously know what you’re doing. Proper training of an adolescent is all that, plus the potential of being dangerous.
Don’t forget that the puppy you adopt will be an adolescent in a matter of months. Experts and those who diligently work with experts to raise their puppies can make adolescence go more smoothly by correct handling of the puppy before adolescent age is reached. But that’s not usually what happens when owners don’t make carefully considered decisions in puppy adoption.
Anybody who’s ever been in love with an incompatible person—due to differences in values or serious personality conflicts—knows that “love is not enough” to make a marriage work. Love is not enough to raise a puppy successfully, either.
To succeed in your home, the puppy has to have a sound temperament that falls within the parameters of your resources, early-life handling that has not done irreparable damage beyond your ability to cope, and correct handling from you. Being a different species, a puppy requires far different handling than what works to raise a human baby.
Thus, many people do better skipping the complicated puppy stage and the mercurial adolescent stage to go straight to having a grown dog. If your motive is to save a dog, here’s where it happens. The puppy you pass by will surely be adopted by someone else. The adult dog very well may not be.
The adult dog has a mature temperament that can be much more accurately assessed. Size, coat grooming, activity level and most other aspects of what you will need to be able to handle to live with that dog are apparent in the adult. In the puppy, these factors are carefully hidden, like the legendary warriors hiding in the gift of the magnificent Trojan horse statue. Through the miracle of growth, all the traits of an adult dog are cleverly compacted into that soft little puppy body. No wonder we’re fooled.
Everybody loves puppies, but do consider skipping puppyhood. A whole lot of good things happen when people are willing to adopt adult dogs. You and the dog will both be winners if you make this choice. It’s a much better and safer choice than a puppy when adopting a dog to live with young children, too.
Where are the Puppies?
Shelters place puppies in homes easily. Some have such demand for puppies that they transport them from other states and even from other countries in order to have puppies on hand for adoption. One concern with shelter puppies is the risk to the puppies’ health and temperaments from going through such a system at critical development stages. You get the same problems that happen with pet shop puppies.
Pet shop puppies have also been transported, and like shelter puppies they have been exposed to illness from other dogs. They have had unfortunate experiences that will damage them for life. Some of these puppies will succeed as companion dogs. The risk is high, though, of early death because they can’t survive what they have been through, along with health and temperament problems due to their genetics and exposures.
The most humane way to raise and place puppies is very personal. A good breeder makes extremely careful choices, knows what she is doing with all phases of the process, and breeds only the number of puppies she can properly handle.
A good breeder’s puppies are healthy and your risk of extreme veterinary expenses (beyond the puppy well-baby checks, vaccinations, and spay/neuter at the right time) is greatly reduced. Your risk of the puppy dying soon after adoption is much lower than with shelter and pet shop puppies, too.
The good breeder will want to know you well enough to determine that you’re able to give the puppy a good home. You should also want to know her well enough to determine that you can trust her. This means you and the breeder need to have a relationship. The puppy will have a lifelong safety net, since the good breeder will help one of her puppies at any age if the puppy needs a new home.
When you have questions after adopting your dog—and you should!—the good breeder will make herself available to answer them. The breeder knows a lot about her dogs, because she knows their mothers and fathers and aunts and uncles and grandparents and cousins.
You may be surprised how much it comes to mean to you that you can know the dogs who are related to your puppy. When the time comes that you lose your dog to death, you can go back to that family to adopt your next dog. The good breeder and her peers in the breed will be there to help you find the next dog. One of the mercies of losing a dog comes when it is possible to have another, if our life circumstances allow us to take up that responsibility all over again. Good breeders help make this possible.
Keep in mind that the good breeder who takes care of any puppy she has produced if the dog ever needs a new home, throughout life, is going to have adult dogs available for adoption from time to time, too. These are marvelous adoptions, with all the advantages of known genetics and history as well as missing the chaos of puppyhood.
Don’t think of adding a puppy to your life as a “purchase.” You don’t buy “puppy flesh,” if you make a responsible decision. Instead, you adopt a companion animal. Wherever you get your puppy or dog, any money that changes hands is a separate matter from what really happens when you get a dog.
A puppy is not a good gift. Imagine giving someone a human baby without knowing if they want one. Giving them a puppy or dog isn’t much different, except in degree. It’s a huge responsibility that each person must choose to take or not take.
Good breeders do not knowingly sell dogs to be placed in their real homes by other people. It is important to preserve the link between the breeder and the dog so that whoever is caring for the dog can get the breeder’s help when needed.
What Research Works?
Mixed breed puppies can grow into wonderful dogs. The healthiest mixes are those who are a cross between two purebred dogs. This is a hybrid and may have some genetic benefits. It will likely have the most extreme temperament traits of both breeds, though, so you need to research both breeds diligently and make sure you can handle all the possibilities. Most people are better off with a puppy from an established breed. The best breeders are found there, too.
A mixed breed puppy is not a good choice for a first-time dog owner or for any situation where the dog’s temperament is extremely important. The major situation in which people make this mistake is adopting a mixed breed puppy to live with children, especially young children. You need the best possible temperament for that situation, not an unknown. If the children are younger than school age, it’s better to adopt an adult dog, or wait until they are older.
A baby dog growing up with baby humans quite often doesn’t keep that home because of what happens to the puppy at critical development stages. Little kids cause pain and fear to puppies, and the puppies don’t react strongly enough for the parents to realize what terrible damage is happening. As the puppies mature into their adult instincts, they start protecting themselves because the parents didn’t know enough to protect them.
This is a critical problem with any puppy, but when you don’t know what size the dog will grow to, how much guarding instinct, how reactive, and many other traits, the mix becomes a bigger risk. And of course there probably won’t be a good breeder to help you, because the best breeders do not breed mixes. If you want a mixed-breed dog, skipping puppyhood with your adoption will greatly improve both your chances and the dog’s chances of a successful life.
Before deciding on any breed (or mix of breeds), spend significant time in personal, direct contact with dogs of that breed and people knowledgeable about them. Stay away from puppies! Puppies are not supposed to be at dog shows, so dog shows can be one place to research.
Going to one dog show is not doing enough homework to choose a breed. It’s just one step. Buy a catalog to help you identify breeders you may wish to approach when they are not busy, to arrange a convenient time for a more educational meeting.
Read about the breed, too, of course. Read more than one book, talk to as many people as you can who know the breed, and be sure to talk to rescue as well as breed club education officers. You can find the contact information for many of these people on the Internet, but Web surfing is not adequate research. You need to know so much more than you can find out that way.
People like to talk about their dogs and to have other people admire them, so if you work at it, you can find the information you need from living and breathing people and dogs in person. When you have done this, it can be a reasonable option to get your dog from another geographical area. You should go there in person before committing to a dog, though.
The Bold Pup, the Shy Pup, the “Runt:” How to Choose
So now you’ve come down to a breed and a breeder, and a litter of puppies is available. How do you choose which to adopt? The best case is not to make that choice yourself.
A good breeder knows her breed, the parents of these puppies and their relatives, and has studied these puppies as they’ve developed. She has also done her homework about YOU, and has a good idea what you can handle and what you need.
You trust this breeder, right? Otherwise, what are you doing here? Leave! You need the right dog, and that dog is waiting for you somewhere. Don’t take the most available dog, the cheapest dog, the easiest dog to get quickly. Don’t let yourself down, and don’t let the right dog down, either.
So, here you are with that breeder you trust. How to pick? Simple, she’ll pick your puppy. Of course you will have decided some things to guide her, such as whether you especially want or need one sex rather than the other and what training you plan to do with the pup. A pup destined to be a child’s playmate needs different traits than one who will be training for police work or high-powered dog sports.
A pup you want to show, earn titles with, and breed needs many different attributes than a pup you will spay/neuter. Some wonderful dogs are unlikely to reproduce themselves well, or they have traits that will not interfere with your lifestyle but should not be bred on to become major aspects in the breed’s gene pool.
Breeding dogs properly is a highly demanding calling and seldom profitable. Some people love it, while others would totally hate it. Living with intact male and female dogs of some breeds is a daunting task for many people. Giving up the pups is wrenching. Having mother dogs and puppies die in the birth process brings breeders terrible grief. Breeders who do the job well are heroes. Many of us would rather find other ways to serve humankind, while enjoying our dogs in a less complex lifestyle than breeding demands. Since the decision of whether or not to breed your dog often needs to be made at least tentatively when adopting a puppy, this is more research for you to do!
Deadlines Don’t Work
Getting a puppy for Christmas or Hanukkah is usually a terrible idea. You need the right puppy. The holidays are often the wrong time to find that puppy and also the wrong time to take on the extra work and lack of sleep that goes with adopting a new puppy. In the months following the holidays, a lot of people who didn’t do their research properly are giving up those puppies. This may well be the best time of year to adopt.
Researching breeds is fun if you take your time. Doing it in a fever trying to get a dog on some schedule not only takes the fun out of it, but causes you to cut some critical corners. It takes time to meet people, talk to them, get to know them, and find the right opportunities to interact with and learn about the dogs.
Remember that you’re forming relationships. You’re getting to know the other dog owners who will share a family tie of dogs with you. You’re finding out how these dogs smell, how they need their coats tended, what ear care they need, and how much money to set aside in a savings account for your dog’s veterinary expenses. Does this breed have a high incidence of hip dysplasia? What behaviors do you need to train? What activities is the breed well suited for, and which of those activities do you enjoy?
The research takes you into the life you’ll be living with a dog of this breed (or breeds, in the case of a mix). It’s not preliminary time, but rather it’s the beginning of that life. It has its own rewards. Don’t skip past it or rush it.
When selecting a dog, always remember the old saying “Marry in haste; repent at leisure.” Rushing ahead on emotion without doing the real-life research might accidentally find you the right dog. Your chances are reduced, though, and you miss too much of the good stuff!

Your dog.......

2009-04-28T06:18:00.001-07:00

"He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."

Anyone who has pets will really like this...

2009-04-27T07:32:00.001-07:00

You'll like it even if you don't and you may even decide you need one!Mary and her husband Jim had a dog named 'Lucky.' Lucky was a real character. Whenever Mary and Jim had company come fora weekend visit they would warn their friends to not leave theirluggage open because Lucky would help himself to whatever struck hisfancy. Inevitably, someone would forget and something would come upmissing. Mary or Jim would goto Lucky's toy box in the basement and there the treasure would be,amid all of Lucky's other favorite toys Lucky always stashed his findsin his toy box and he was very particular that his toys stay in thebox..It happened that Mary found out she had breast cancer. Something told her she was going to die of this disease....in fact; she was just sure it was fatal.She scheduled the double mastectomy,fear riding her shoulders. The night before she was to go to thehospital she cuddled with Lucky. A thought struck her...what wouldhappen to Lucky? Although the three-year-old dog liked Jim, he wasMary's dog through and through. If I die, Lucky will be abandoned, Marythought. He won't understand that I didn't want to leave him! Thethought made her sadder than thinking of her own death.The double mastectomy was harder on Mary than her doctors hadanticipated and Mary was hospitalized for over two weeks. Jim tookLucky for his evening walk faithfully, but the little dog just drooped,whining and miserable.Finally the day came for Mary to leave the hospital. When she arrivedhome, Mary was so exhausted she couldn't even make it up the steps toher bedroom. Jim made his wife comfortable on the couch and left her tonap. Lucky stood watching Mary but he didn't come to her when she called. Itmade Mary sad but sleep soon overcame her and she dozed. When Mary woke for asecond she couldn't understand what was wrong. She couldn't move herhead and her body felt heavy and hot. But panic soon gave way tolaughter when Mary realized the problem. She was covered, literallyblanketed, with every treasure Lucky owned! While she had slept, thesorrowing dog had made trip after trip to the basement bringing hisbeloved mistress all his favorite things in life.He had covered her with his love.Mary forgot about dying. Instead she and Lucky began living again,walking further and further together every day. It's been 12 years nowand Mary is still cancer-free. Lucky He still steals treasures andstashes them in his toy box but Mary remains his greatest treasure.Remember...live everyday to the fullest. Each minute is a blessing from God. And neverforget....the people who make a difference in our lives are not theones with the most Credentials, the most money, or the most awards.They are the ones that care for us.If you see someone without a smile today give them one of yours! Livesimply. Love seriously. Care deeply. Speak kindly.

A Pet's Ten Commandments...

2009-04-25T08:04:00.000-07:00

A PET'S TEN COMMANDMENTS...

1. My life is likely to last 10-15 years. Any separation from you is likely to be painful.

2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.

3. Place your trust in me. It is crucial for my well-being.

4. Don't be angry with me for long and don't lock me up as punishment. You have your work, your friends, yourentertainment, but I have only you.

5. Talk to me. Even if I don't understand your words, I do understand your voice when speaking to me.

6. Be aware that however you treat me, I will never forget it.

7. Before you hit me, before you strike me, remember that I could hurt you, and yet, I choose not to bite you.

8. Before you scold me for being lazy or uncooperative, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I'm not getting the right food, I have been in the sun too long, or my heart might be getting old or weak.

9. Please take care of me when I grow old. You too, will grow old.

10. On the ultimate difficult journey, go with me please. Never say you can't bear to watch. Don't make me face this alone. Everything is easier for me if you are there, because I love you so.

ALWAYS! ~Take a moment today to thank God for your pets.

Enjoy and take good care of them. Life would bea much duller and less joyful experience without them~

Some foods to avoid which may be dangerous to dogs.

2009-04-25T06:50:00.000-07:00

Some foods to avoid which may be dangerous to dogs:

Chocolate which can cause seizures in dogs.
Coffee and tea can cause similar problems as chocolate.
Raisins and grapes can cause kidney failure.
Nutmeg can also cause seizures.
Raw eggs could contain salmonella, so they’re not worth the risk.
Onions are not advised as they can interfere with blood circulation.
Macadamia nuts can cause dogs to have tremors and lead to paralysis.Other food cautions include moldy foods, yeast dough and fruit pits. Many fruit pits contain cyanide.

Separation Anxiety

2009-04-25T06:01:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

SEPARATION ANXIETY ?

How do I know if my pet’s problem is due to separation anxiety?
Separation anxiety describes dogs that usually are overly attached or dependent on family members. They become extremely anxious and show distress behaviors of vocalization, destruction, house-soiling or inactivity when separated from the owners. Most dogs with separation anxiety try to remain close to their owners and become increasingly anxious the greater the separation. They may follow the owners from room to room and begin to display signs of anxiety as soon as the owners prepare to leave. Some of these dogs crave a great deal of physical contact and attention from their owners and can be demanding. During departures or separations they may begin to salivate or pant profusely, vocalize, eliminate, and refuse to eat, become destructive or become quiet and withdrawn. Most often these behaviors occur within about 20 minutes of the owner’s departure. While typically the behavior occurs each and every time the owner leaves, it can only happen on selected departures, such as work-day departures, or when the owner leaves again after coming home from work. Dogs with separation anxiety are also often quite excited and aroused when the owner returns jumping, whining, running around for 5-15 minutes when you first come home.

Are there other reasons that my dog may engage in these behaviors?
Many dogs, especially puppies enjoy chewing and engage in the behavior when they have nothing better to keep them occupied. House-soiling may be due to medical problems, leaving the dog alone for longer than it can control its bladder, or inadequate house-training. Vocalization may be due to territorial intrusion by strangers or other animals, and can be a rewarded behavior if the dog receives any form of attention when it vocalizes or rewarded by the stimulus leaving. Some dogs will attempt to escape or become extremely anxious when confined, so that destructiveness or house-soiling when a dog is locked up in a crate, basement, or laundry room, may be due to confinement or barrier anxiety and associated attempts at escape. In addition, noise phobias such as a thunderstorm that passes through during the owner’s absence, may lead to marked destructiveness, house-soiling, salivation and vocalization. Old dogs with medical problems such as loss of hearing or sight, painful conditions and cognitive dysfunction may become more anxious in general, and seek out the owner’s attention for security and relief. While giving attention to help calm your dog may seem to be the best alternative, this may greatly increase your dogs need to be with you and around you at all times.

Where do I start?
Before you can begin to consider departure training, you must focus on developing a routine and training your pet to settle down and relax before it can earn attention. In other words you use the very rewards that your dog is seeking to teach independent behavior and relaxed times away from you. Until you can get your pet to settle and relax without attention when you are at home, your pet is unlikely to settle when you leave.

1. Establish a predictable routine
Since your dog is anxious you need to begin by making his day calmer and more predictable whether you are home or away. Establish a daily routine so that your pet can begin to predict when exercise, attention, feeding, training, play and elimination can be expected and when it is time to settle and nap or play with favored toys. Try to schedule times for object play and naps at times when you would normally depart.
2. Environmental enrichment – meeting your dog’s needs
While maintaining a regular routine, the pet’s day should be sufficiently enriched to meet or exceed its needs for social play, exercise, training and affection. In effect, you should initiate enough regular interactive sessions and provide enough play toys so that in between your pet is ready to settle down and relax. New exploratory and chew toys should be added in between social play times, so that the pet can focus on its own toys when it is time to settle. Feeding toys can also replace standard food bowls to make feeding time more of a mental and physical effort.
3. Establish a predictable protocol for rewards
If your pet has separation anxiety, it’s likely that your pet’s favored rewards are the attention and play that you provide. Treats, food, play and chew toys may also be highly desirable to the pet. Take each of the pet’s most valuable rewards and ask yourself: “what behavior does my pet need to learn” and “what behavior should I never reinforce”. With separation anxiety the answer should be clear; you must reinforce the pet for settling down, relaxing and showing some independence, while attention seeking and following behaviors should never be reinforced. Therefore, training should focus on extended and relaxed down stays and going to a bed or mat on command (see our settle exercises handout). If your dog seeks attention, your options are to ignore entirely until your dog settles, or to have your dog do a down-stay or go to its mat. After sufficient time in the down-stay or on the mat, give some attention or affection as a reward. Gradually shape longer periods of inattention before attention is given. The goal is not to ignore the dog, but rather to ignore attention-seeking behaviors. You want the dog to learn that calm and quiet behavior is desired and the best way to receive attention.
4. Train settle (see settle exercise handout)
The goal of training is that your dog learns to settle comfortably on cue. Focus on having your pet in a settled down, or lying on its bed or mat (or crate) before you give any reward. Not only should attention-seeking behavior be ignored, but all casual interactions should be avoided for the first few weeks, so that it is clear to both you and your dog that a settled response predictably achieves rewards and attention seeking does not. Practice training down stays and mat exercises (see our settle handout) using food lures, clicker training or head halter training, whichever you find most effective. Gradually shape longer stays and longer times on the bed or mat before attention, affection, treats or play is earned.
5. Develop an area and mat for relaxation
Having a bed or mat location (in a room, pen, or crate) where your dog can be taught to rest, nap, play and even sleep, can provide a secure area for your pet when you are not home. You can begin by training your pet to go to the area and gradually shape longer stays and more relaxed responses in the area before rewards are given. It might be helpful to have a barricade, tie down or crate that could be closed to ensure that your dog remains in the area for long enough at each session before being released. On the other hand, know your limits for success; your dog must be calm and settled when released so as to avoid reinforcing crying or barking behavior. At first your dog can be taken to this area as part of training routine using a toy or treat as a lure or a leash and head halter. However, in time a daily routine should be established where the dog learns to lie on its mat after each exercise, play and training session to either nap or play with its own toys. This is similar to the routine for crate training where the mat or bed becomes the dog’s bed or playpen. Other than play, exercise and training sessions, focus on giving your dog some or all of its rewards (treats, toys, chews, affection, feeding toys) only in this area. Audible cues such as a radio, CD or TV, odors such as aromatherapy candles or a piece of clothing with the owner’s scent, and a comfortable bed, can help to promote a relaxed response since they are associated with relaxation and owner presence (non-departure).
6. For some dogs it also is useful to work on responses to simple commands and having them earn all things. This can be as simple as having the dog respond to a command such as “sit” prior to receiving anything it wants. For example if the dog asks to go outside prior to opening the door the dog is given the command to “sit” and once it complies the door is opened. This technique can be used for anything the dog desires. See our handout on learn to earn for other examples.

When I need to leave, what can I do immediately to prevent damage?
This is an extremely difficult question. The goal of treatment is to reduce your pet’s level of anxiety by training it to feel comfortable in your absence. This can be a long intensive process. Yet, most owners will need to deal with the damage or vocalization immediately. During initial retraining its usually best to hire a dog sitter, take the dog to work, find a friend to care for the dog for the day, board the dog for the day, or arrange to take some time off from work to retrain the dog. Crate training or dog proofing techniques may work especially well for those dogs that already have an area where they are used to being confined. Crates should be used with caution however, with dogs that have separation anxiety and/or barrier frustrations, because they can promote intense escape attempts and may result in fairly serious injuries. It is important to choose a room or area that does not further increase the dog’s anxiety. The dog’s bedroom or feeding area may therefore be most practical. Booby-traps might also be used to keep the dog away from potential problem areas (See our handouts on ‘Behavior management products’ and ‘Canine punishment’).

For vocalization, anti-bark devices may be useful (see our handout on ‘Barking’), but the dog will continue to remain anxious, and the motivation to vocalize may be too strong for the products to be effective. Tranquilizers and anti-anxiety drugs and pheromones may also be useful for short-term use, until the owner has effectively corrected the problem.

How can the dog be retrained so that it is less anxious during departures?
Since the underlying problem is anxiety, try to reduce all forms of anxiety, prior to departure, at the time of departure, and at the time of homecoming. In addition, the pet must learn to accept progressively longer periods of inattention and separation while the owners are at home.

What should be done prior to departures?
Before any lengthy departure, provide a vigorous session of play and exercise. This not only helps to reduce some of the dog’s energy and tire it out, but also provides a period of attention. A brief training session can also be a productive way to further interact and “work” with your dog. For the final 15-30 minutes prior to departure, the dog should be ignored. It would be best if your dog were trained to go to its rest and relaxation area with a radio, TV, or video playing, (as above) as the owner could then prepare for departure while the pet is out of sight and earshot of the owner. The key is to avoid as many of the departure signals as possible, so that the dog’s anxiety doesn’t heighten, even before the owner leaves. Brushing teeth, changing into work clothes, or collecting keys, purse, briefcase or schoolbooks, are all routines that might be able to be performed out of sight of the dog. Owners might also consider changing clothes at work, preparing and packing a lunch the night before, or might even consider leaving their car at a neighbor's so the dog wouldn’t hear the car pulling out of the driveway. The other alternative is to expose your dog to as many of these cues as possible while you remain at home so that they no longer are predictive of departure (see below). A few minutes prior to departure the dog should be given some fresh toys and objects to keep it occupied so that the owner can leave while the dog is distracted. Saying goodbye will only serve to bring attention to the departure.

What should I do if I come home to a mess?
Your dog has been extremely anxious during your departure and presumably this has led to any destruction or housesoiling. Therefore, anything you might do to increase your pet’s anxiety can only make matters worse for future departures and will not do anything to correct what has already been done.

Therefore both punishment and excited greetings must be avoided. At homecomings, ignore your dog until it calms and settles down (this may take 10-15 minutes). Your dog should soon learn that the faster it settles the sooner it will get your attention.

What can be done to reduce anxiety at the time of departure?
As you depart, your dog should be kept busy and occupied, and preferably out of sight, so that there is little or no anxiety. Giving special food treats that have been saved for departures (and mock departure training sessions) can help keep the dog distracted and perhaps “enjoying itself” while you leave. Dogs that are highly aroused and stimulated by food may become so intensively occupied in a peanut butter coated dog toy, a fresh piece of rawhide, a dog toy stuffed with liver and dog food, or some frozen dog treats, that they may not even notice you leave. Be certain that the distraction devices last as long as possible so that the dog continues to occupy its time until you are “long gone”. Frozen treats placed in the dog’s food bowl, toys that are tightly stuffed with goodies, toys that are designed to require manipulation and work to obtain the food reward, toys that can maintain lengthy chewing, and timed feeders that open throughout the day are a few suggestions. Determine what best motivates your dog. For example, if a particular toy is highly successful provide two or three of the same type rather than toys that do not maintain your dog’s interest. It may also be helpful to provide some or all of the dog’s food during departures with a few special surprises in the bottom of the bowl. On rare occasions a second pet can help to keep the dog occupied and distracted during departures. Neither food, nor the second pet is likely to be useful in dogs that are too anxious.

My dog starts to get anxious even before I leave. What can I do?
There are a number of activities that we do consistently prior to each departure. The dog soon learns to identify these cues or signals with imminent departure. On the other hand, some dogs learn that certain other signals mean that the owners are staying home or nearby (inhibiting cues) and therefore can help the dog to relax. If we can prevent the dog from observing any of these anxiety inducing pre-departure cues, or if we train the dog that these cues are no longer predictive of departure, then the anxiety is greatly reduced. Even with the best of efforts some dogs will still pick up on “cues” that the owner is about to depart. Train your pet to associate these cues with enjoyable, relaxing situations (rather than the anxiety of impending departure). By exposing the dog to these cues while you remain at home and when the dog is relaxed or otherwise occupied, they are no longer predictive of departure. This entails some retraining while you are home. You get the items (keys, shoes, briefcase, jacket etc.) that normally signal your departure, and walk to the door. However, you do not leave or exit the house just put everything away. The dog will be watching and possibly get up, but once you put every thing away, the dog should lie down. Then, once the dog is calm, this is repeated. However, only 3-4 repetitions should be done in a single training session; it is vital that the dog be calm and settled before the cues are presented again. Eventually, the dog will not attend to these cues (habituate) because they are no longer predictive of you leaving and will not react, get up or look anxious as you go about your pre-departure tasks. Then, the dog will be less anxious when you do leave. This often allows the next step in re-training, planned departures.

What can be done to retrain the dog to reduce the dependence and following?
The most important aspect of retraining is to teach the dog to be independent and relaxed in your presence. Only when you have taught the dog to stay in place in its bed or relaxation area, rather than constantly following you around, will it be possible to train the dog to begin to accept actual (or mock) departures.

Attention-getting behaviors must not pay off. Any attempts at attention must be ignored. On the other hand, lying quietly away from you should be rewarded. Teach your dog that it is the quiet behavior that will receive attention, and not following you around, or demanding attention. Teach your dog to relax in its quiet area and to accept lengthy periods of inattention when you are home. You may have to begin with very short periods of inattention and gradually shape this to 30 minute periods or longer. Training can progress much quicker if you teach the down stay and go to your mat command so that you “tell” your dog what is the desired behavior (see our settle exercises handout). Be sure to schedule attention, interaction and play sessions that you initiate and develop a routine while you are at home that incorporates play and attention sessions followed by sessions of inattention (for napping or playing with toys). Your dog should get use to this routine so that you can depart while the dog is calm.

How can I teach my dog to accept my departures?
Formal retraining should be directed at teaching your dog to remain on its mat, in its bed, or in its crate or den area, for progressively longer periods of time (30 minutes or more). You may need to begin with food lure exercises, starting with a down-stay and gradually increasing the time and the level of relaxation at each session. Once the pet will stay in your presence, begin to walk away and return beginning with just a few feet for a few seconds and progressing over time to leaving the room for 30 minutes or longer. Reward with a play or attention session, perhaps coming back and giving a gentle massage or tummy rub. In this way the desired behavior is being shaped and reinforced with the very attention that the dog craves. Remember however, that attention at other times, especially on demand, encourages the dog to follow and pester rather than stay in its bed and relax. A head halter can be particularly useful throughout this training to insure that the pet remains in position and immediately responds to the command.

From this point on, your dog should be encouraged to stay in its bed or crate for extended periods of time rather than sitting at your feet or on your lap. If your dog can also be taught to sleep in this relaxation area at night rather than on your bed or in your bedroom, this may help to break the over-attachment and dependence more quickly. During these training exercises use as many cues as possible to help relax the dog. Mimic the secure environment that the dog feels when the owner is at home. Leave the TV on. Play a favorite video or CD. Leave a favorite blanket or chew toy in the area. All of these cues may help to calm the dog.

How do I progress to leaving the house?
Finally, practice short “mock” departures. During “mock” or graduated departure training, the dog should be exercised, given a short formal training session, and taken to its bed or mat to relax. Give the ‘down-stay’ command, a few toys and treats and leave. The first few "mock" departures should be identical to the training exercises above, but instead of leaving the room for a few minutes while the dog is calm and distracted, you will begin to leave the home. The first few departures should be just long enough to leave and return without any signs of anxiety or destructiveness. This might last from a few seconds to a couple of minutes; however, the hardest part and most critical part may be to merely get out the door without the dog becoming anxious. . Gradually but randomly increase the time. As the time of departure approaches 10 or 15 minutes, begin to include other activities associated with departure such as opening and closing the car door and returning, turning on and off the car engine and returning or pulling the car out of the driveway and returning.

How come my dog gets so anxious when I leave home, but is just fine when I leave the car?
Many dogs that destroy the home when left alone will stay in a car or van without becoming anxious or destructive. This is because the dog has learned to relax and enjoy the car rides, without the need for constant physical attention and contact. And, when the owner does leave this relaxed dog in the car, the departures are generally quite short. The owner may occasionally leave the dog in the car during longer absences. The owner has trained the dog using inattention, relaxation and a graduated departure technique. The dog has learned that when he is in the car, the owner returns quickly and he can be good and not be anxious. What is very important is to progress slowly through the series of departures. If when you return, the dog is anxious or extremely excited, then the departure was too long and the next one should be shorter. This is an effective technique, but very slow in the beginning. The goal is to teach the dog “my owner is only going to be gone for a short time; they are coming right back; I can be good.”

Is drug therapy useful?
Drug therapy can be useful especially during initial departure training. Tranquilizers alone do not reduce the pet’s anxiety and may only be helpful to sedate your dog so that it is less likely to investigate and destroy. Often the most suitable drugs for long-term use are anti-depressants, anti-anxiety drugs or a combination. Drugs alone will do little or nothing to improve separation anxiety. It is the retraining program that is needed to help your dog gain some independence and accept some time away from you. Pheromone therapy can also be useful for diminishing anxiety both while you are home and when you are away.

Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery

2009-04-24T10:00:00.000-07:00

tel: 631-367-7387 website: advancedcareforpets.com

Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery

Many people “shop around” for the best price on this surgery, without the knowledge of why the cost varies among veterinary practices. This guide was put together to help you find the best fit between the veterinary practice and your expectations for the care of your pet.
Questions to Ask and Why to Ask Them:
1. Will my pet receive a complete physical examination and pre-anesthetic testing prior to surgery?
This is important for a number of reasons. It is our first defense against performing surgery on an animal that may have infectious disease, a heart murmur, or be debilitated from parasites. All patients receive a thorough physical examination prior to any anesthetic being administered, and laboratory tests are run to assess your pet’s ability to process and metabolize the anesthetic drugs.

2. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet during surgery?
While most surgery is uneventful, emergencies sometimes arise. Early detection of impending problems greatly aids our ability to intervene and correct the problem. An intravenous (IV) catheter is placed prior to anesthesia for the administration of drugs and fluids, as well as to provide the ability to rapidly administer treatment should your pet have a problem while under anesthesia. IV fluids are given to your pet during the procedure to maintain normal blood pressure and to ensure that there is good circulation to vital organs such as the kidneys. Injectable (propoflo) and inhalant anesthetics (sevoflo) are used in combination to provide a level of safety similar to what you find in human hospitals. An endotracheal (breathing) tube is used to provide oxygen and inhalant anesthetics to your pet, while at the same time ensuring an open airway at all times. A positive pressure ventilator will breathe for your pet throughout the procedure. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, uses state-of-the-art body function monitors, including pulse oximetry, blood pressure measurement, electrocardiogram, aortic pressure, core body temperature, carbon dioxide levels, respiratory rate and heart rate to closely monitor your pet. The practice should also have emergency drugs and supplies handy in the event of an emergency.

3. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet after surgery?
Surgery patients lose body heat through anesthesia and surgery. If patients get too cold, the heart can be affected. Patient temperature should be monitored at regular intervals after surgery and supplemental heating provided as needed. Your pet’s gum color, pulse, respiration and blood pressure should also be monitored. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, will stay with your pet throughout the recovery from surgery.
4. Doesn’t surgery hurt? What pain control do you provide?
This is very important-surgery hurts! The anesthetic will not provide pain control once the pet wakes up. Pain control medication should be offered. We take the comfort of our patients very seriously. Any surgery, regardless of how involved it is or how good the surgeon is, will cause pain. We include pain medications in our anesthetic protocols to prevent your pet from experiencing pain upon waking up. We use a combination of pain medications in the hospital to ensure effective, long-lasting pain relief. In certain cases, we will use a pain patch applied to the skin to provide several days of pain relief. We also will always send home oral pain medications to help keep your pet comfortable after being discharged from the hospital. We believe that it is never acceptable for a pet to be in pain, and we take immediate action to prevent and manage pain and discomfort that can occur from surgical procedures
5. Will I receive written post-surgical care instructions for my pet?
We routinely provide you with written discharge instructions that will help you to understand what your role needs to be in your pet’s post-operative recuperation in order to minimize any chance of having problems after the surgery. Typically, we will also call you at home after your pet is discharged to ensure that everything is going well, and to answer any questions you may have. We are happy to address any questions or concerns you may have about your pet, before or after the procedure 24 hours each day of the week. Aftercare of surgical patients is very important for proper healing.

We invite you to compare our standards to any veterinary facility; once you evaluate the level of care that your pet will receive at the Advanced Animal Care Center, we believe that your decision will be clear.

Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery

2009-04-24T09:59:00.000-07:00

Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery

Many people “shop around” for the best price on this surgery, without the knowledge of why the cost varies among veterinary practices. This guide was put together to help you find the best fit between the veterinary practice and your expectations for the care of your pet.
Questions to Ask and Why to Ask Them:
1. Will my pet receive a complete physical examination and pre-anesthetic testing prior to surgery?
This is important for a number of reasons. It is our first defense against performing surgery on an animal that may have infectious disease, a heart murmur, or be debilitated from parasites. All patients receive a thorough physical examination prior to any anesthetic being administered, and laboratory tests are run to assess your pet’s ability to process and metabolize the anesthetic drugs.

2. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet during surgery?
While most surgery is uneventful, emergencies sometimes arise. Early detection of impending problems greatly aids our ability to intervene and correct the problem. An intravenous (IV) catheter is placed prior to anesthesia for the administration of drugs and fluids, as well as to provide the ability to rapidly administer treatment should your pet have a problem while under anesthesia. IV fluids are given to your pet during the procedure to maintain normal blood pressure and to ensure that there is good circulation to vital organs such as the kidneys. Injectable (propoflo) and inhalant anesthetics (sevoflo) are used in combination to provide a level of safety similar to what you find in human hospitals. An endotracheal (breathing) tube is used to provide oxygen and inhalant anesthetics to your pet, while at the same time ensuring an open airway at all times. A positive pressure ventilator will breathe for your pet throughout the procedure. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, uses state-of-the-art body function monitors, including pulse oximetry, blood pressure measurement, electrocardiogram, aortic pressure, core body temperature, carbon dioxide levels, respiratory rate and heart rate to closely monitor your pet. The practice should also have emergency drugs and supplies handy in the event of an emergency.

3. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet after surgery?
Surgery patients lose body heat through anesthesia and surgery. If patients get too cold, the heart can be affected. Patient temperature should be monitored at regular intervals after surgery and supplemental heating provided as needed. Your pet’s gum color, pulse, respiration and blood pressure should also be monitored. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, will stay with your pet throughout the recovery from surgery.
4. Doesn’t surgery hurt? What pain control do you provide?
This is very important-surgery hurts! The anesthetic will not provide pain control once the pet wakes up. Pain control medication should be offered. We take the comfort of our patients very seriously. Any surgery, regardless of how involved it is or how good the surgeon is, will cause pain. We include pain medications in our anesthetic protocols to prevent your pet from experiencing pain upon waking up. We use a combination of pain medications in the hospital to ensure effective, long-lasting pain relief. In certain cases, we will use a pain patch applied to the skin to provide several days of pain relief. We also will always send home oral pain medications to help keep your pet comfortable after being discharged from the hospital. We believe that it is never acceptable for a pet to be in pain, and we take immediate action to prevent and manage pain and discomfort that can occur from surgical procedures
5. Will I receive written post-surgical care instructions for my pet?
We routinely provide you with written discharge instructions that will help you to understand what your role needs to be in your pet’s post-operative recuperation in order to minimize any chance of having problems after the surgery. Typically, we will also call you at home after your pet is discharged to ensure that everything is going well, and to answer any questions you may have. We are happy to address any questions or concerns you may have about your pet, before or after the procedure 24 hours each day of the week. Aftercare of surgical patients is very important for proper healing.

We invite you to compare our standards to any veterinary facility; once you evaluate the level of care that your pet will receive at the Advanced Animal Care Center, we believe that your decision will be clear.

What is Laparoscopy?

2009-04-24T09:57:00.000-07:00

ADVANCED ANIMAL CARE CENTER
260 Evergreen Avenue
South Huntington, NY 11746
www.Advancedcareforpets.com
(631)-FOR-PETS (367-7387

Because Your Pet deserves the Best Care available

What is Laparoscopy?

Laparoscopy is a minimally invasive technique for viewing the internal structures of the abdomen. A laparoscope (camera) inserted through a small incision in the abdomen magnifies internal structures of the abdomen on a TV monitor for thorough examination. Additional small incisions are made to facilitate the use of surgical instruments. The most common application of laparoscopy is biopsy. In recent years, laparoscopy has been adopted as less traumatic and less painful alternative to traditional spays.

What is the Difference?

Traditional Spays

In traditional spays a 2” to 3” incision is made in the abdomen through which the ovarian ligament is torn from the abdominal wall. This tearing may cause bruising to the abdominal wall and postoperative pain. By performing the procedure laparoscopically the patient experiences less trauma and minimal pain.

Laparoscopic Spays

In laparoscopic spays the procedure is performed through two or three small incisions in the abdomen, typically 3/16” in size depending the size of the animal. With the laparoscope we are able to perform the surgery with magnified views of the organs, allowing for greater precision. The ovarian ligament is carefully cut and cauterized, rather than torn. With laparoscopic spays we are able to offer our patients reduced pain, minimal recovery time and less trauma than with traditional spays.

Advantages of Laparoscopic Spays over Traditional Surgery

1.) Smaller incisions are less painful and reduce recovery time.
2.) Controlled cuts minimize pain and bruising caused by tearing tissue in traditional spays.
3.) Simple to perform and involves few complications
4.) Allows for excellent visualization of abdominal organs.
5.) The entire surgery is performed through a few tiny incisions rather than a larger abdominal opening.
6.) In larger breed dog’s gastropexy can be performed at the time of spay.

A Natural Approach to your pet's care

2009-04-24T06:59:00.001-07:00

Naturopathy
A Natural Approach To Your Pet’s Care

The Power to Alter Your Pet’s Genes' Behavior
You may not realize it, but you and your pet have spent your lives altering your genetic activity. When you took your first sip of wine or beer, you turned up the volume on your body's genetic ability to detoxify alcohol. Every summer, when you strive for that perfect tan, you activate the genes that protect your skin. Genes are not a fixed set of preprogrammed instructions. They are a dynamic, active part of your pet’s life, responding each day to the environment and their diet. ”Naturopathy” or “Nutrigenomics” addresses your pet’s individual needs and works with their body to help maintain good health. Each pet has different problems and considerations, which is why each pet needs its own specifically individualized dietary supplementation.

Dr. Michel Selmer, has been helping his patients discover a health, vitality, and joy in life that their owner’s never thought possible, simply by having them alter what they eat, which supplements they were given, and how they exercised. Yet he always assumed that the genetic part of our story had already been written. Like most of us, he believed the genes we inherited from our parents were the cards we were dealt. But recently, Dr. Selmer began to discover that we have an enormous power to improve our pet’s lives, even when it comes to their genes. True, we can't do anything about which chromosomes they got from their parents; we can't add new genes to the mix or eradicate old ones. But the genes they got at conception are only the beginning of the story. Dr. Selmer belives that we have the capacity to turn up the volume on some genes and silence others, vastly improving our capacity to provide our pet’s good health and happiness. What is a Nutritional Blood Test? The Nutritional Blood Test, or NBT, is a diagnostic tool used by Dr. Selmer who recognizes the importance of integrating nutrition with patient care. The NBT assesses the health of internal organs and the available vitamins, minerals and enzymes required for the metabolic processes. Using blood results and medical history, the NBT prioritizes the nutrients required to help optimize organ function and balance metabolism. It then matches the results to specific Nutraceuticals that support a clinical response. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to your other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process. Even if the patient is already using supplements, the NBT enhances the ability to dispense them effectively. The NBT is not meant to diagnose a particular disease, recommend medical therapy or replace current diagnostic protocols. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process even if you’re already using supplements for your animal.

How Does the NBT Work? The levels of certain chemicals in the blood are the end result of the metabolic processes and the utilization or excretion of the metabolic wastes from the body. The NBT looks beyond chemical testing and quantitative assays to identify imbalances that are due to poor nutrient absorption, utilization or metabolism. One contributing factor to the reported steady rise in chronic degenerative diseases in animals is the inadequate levels of vitamins, minerals, enzymes and vital nutrients found in many highly processed, commercially prepared foods. Over time, the animal’s nutrient reserves can become depleted, paving the way to disease. The NBT is a valuable tool for correcting these deficiencies and guiding sick animals back to health. The Optimum Range Within the normal blood reference range, there are subtle gradations of tissue integrity and organ efficiency that can be measured. The NBT assessment relies on an Optimum Range, an additional set of parameters that are narrower than the traditional reference range and in which organs and metabolic processes are functioning at peak efficiency. Results outside of the optimum range do not necessarily indicate disease. They do, however, indicate that a particular organ system is not functioning at optimal efficiency, and may require nutritional support. Just as the interpretation outside the normal range forms the basis for the diagnosis of a specific disease, the optimum range interpretation forms the basis for determining optimal- not just “passable”- health. The NBT compares the blood results to the optimum range. When a value falls outside of the optimum range, the underlying physiology and metabolism, as well as the specific glands involved and nutrients used by the body for these processes, are assessed. The assessment is further evaluated in combination with the diagnosis and the clinical signs, resulting in a recommended NBT Nutraceutical Program that is specific to your animal.

The Results of the NBT
The NBT provides a unique veterinary-client lab report that prescribes the most effective combination of nutrients including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars, specifically blended to match the imbalances found in the animal's blood. These nutrients are precisely dosed according to the animal's weight and the severity of the imbalances or deficiencies The nutrient combination, referred to as the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy, is given orally in an easy-to-use powder along with symptom-oriented liquid remedies. In the powdered form, the designated number of “scoopfuls” is simply mixed with the animal's food. Liquids are given orally, separate from the food. All remedies are custom-prescribed and individually labeled. Advantages of Using Custom Blended Powder and Liquid Formulas Palatable
Easy to Administer
Dosed By Weight Of Animal
Food Grade Quality
Scientifically Linked to Blood Work
Free of Chemical Additives, Preservatives And Fillers
Maximum Assimilation And High Bio Availability
Arrange for your animal to visit Dr. Selmer and request a Nutritional Blood Test (NBT). The NBT includes your animal’s routine blood work (CBC, Super Chem (w/LDH), T-4) along with the 9945 NBT form or a blood test questionnaire. After receiving the NBT results (typically within 3 to 5 days) Dr. Selmer will consult with you to go over your animal’s NBT results, after which, you may order the custom-blended nutraceutical powder or symptom-oriented liquid remedies.If you would like to start a NBT, please call our Dr. Selmer at (631) 367-7387 or send an email to us at drselmer@optonline.net

Quality ManufacturingAnimal Nutrition Technologies manufactures a line of powders, fixed formulas and liquid supplements that are made from the absolute best ingredients and manufactured at the highest standards of quality and reliability.
ANT has capability to provide custom blended powder formula pulling from an array of over a hundred different nutraceutical ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars.

Lumps and Bumps

2009-04-23T12:53:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

Lumps and Bumps
It is quite common to find unusual lumps and bumps on any area of your pet’s body, particularly as they age. This paper will help you decide what is the most likely problem and what action to take. *Note: I will not be discussing any skin diseases such as fleas, mites or skin infections that do not cause an actual raised lump or mass.
TYPES OF SKIN MASSES
ABSCESSES
Abscesses are localized areas of inflammation that can occur anywhere in or on the body. Abscesses are most commonly created by bacteria but they can also be caused by fungi or noninfectious irritants and be sterile. Abscesses can form after punctures or tears, as with bites, or as a result of an infection in a specific tissue such as a tooth or anal gland. Multiple small abscesses can form internally when an infectious agent travels through the blood and then lodges in various tissues such as the liver, kidney or lungs. Fortunately, abscesses are uncommon in the United States and are most often associated with infected anal glands, infected teeth, or the prostate gland. Abscesses are rarely seen post surgically if standard sterile technique is used.
Abscesses in the skin can appear quickly and may be firm and painful when touched. An abscess is surrounded by a reddened and inflamed area and feels warm to the touch. In my experience, most abscesses in your pets skin will readily. An abscess in the skin that does not involve any deep tissues will move with the skin. A swelling will appear on either side of the anus in the case of anal gland abscesses. The stools can become thin and ribbon-like due to pressure by the large abscess on the rectal wall. Dental abscesses are usually associated with either a canine tooth or an upper molar. Dental abscesses appear as hard lumps either on the lower jaw, usually near the chin, or on the upper jaw, often under or just in front of the eye. Abscesses should be treated as soon as possible. Besides being painful, there is a potential that an abscess can spread into deeper tissues allowing the bacteria to enter the blood stream. This could lead to a condition known as septicemia where the infectious organism is circulating throughout the body via the blood. Septicemia can lead to internal abscess formation or an overwhelming infection and death.
C YSTS
A cyst is a closed sac in or under the skin that is lined with epithelium, which are cells bound together by connective material, and contain fluid or semisolid material. Cysts are usually round, firm to the touch and moveable with the skin. Cysts, unlike abscesses, do not have red, inflamed skin surrounding them and are not usually painful. A cyst can occasionally form after a vaccination. This is an inflammatory response to chemicals that the vaccine contains and may appear up to one month after the vaccination and take six months or longer to disappear. Cysts are not dangerous, and are usually painless. However, they can increase in size and eventually become uncomfortable. It is best to have cysts removed while they are still small.
SIALOCELE
A sialocele is an accumulation of saliva under the skin of the lower jaw or neck. The saliva leaks out of a salivary duct damaged by either trauma or other disease, and forms a pocket under the skin. Sialoceles are painless and soft and fluctuant to the touch. They usually do not move with the skin. Sialoceles are not life threatening, but should be treated surgically because they rarely disappear on their own and can become quite large.
LYMPH NODES
Lymph nodes can be enlarged for a number of reasons, most notably lymphosarcoma, which is a type of cancer, and lymphoid hyperplasia, which is where lymph nodes are “overreacting” to some stimulus. Lymph nodes are found all over the body, but are most easily felt in the neck at the angle of the jaw, just in front of the shoulders, in the armpits, in the groin and along the back of the thighs. Enlarged lymph nodes do no move with the skin because they are connected to deeper tissues, but they can be felt just under the skin. Enlarged lymph nodes should be investigated as soon as possible so appropriate action can be taken.
NEOPLASIA (CANCER)
Pets can develop a wide variety of skin cancers including mastocytomas, histiocyotomas, sebaceous gland adenomas and adenocarcinomas, basal cell tumors, lymphoma, leiomyomas, lipomas, fibromas, fibrosarcomas and hemangiomas to name a few. The name of the tumor is based on the type of tissue that is cancerous. There are a few tumors that can be highly malignant and can spreading quickly, so we recommend all skin tumors be removed without delay and be identified by a pathologist. If the tumor involves only the skin, it will be moveable. Some tumors involve deeper tissue such as fibromas and fibrosarcomas or the tumors on the tail tip called chordomas, and will not be freely moveable. Most skin tumors are small, painless lumps, but some may become itchy, ulcerated, painful or quite large over time.
DIAGNOSIS
If your pet develops a skin lump you should seek veterinary attention as soon as possible. The first part of the diagnostic process is the physical examination. Some masses are readily identifiable during the examination and treatment may be prescribed without further diagnostics. If the diagnosis is unclear, your veterinarian may biopsy the mass with a needle. Biopsies are often done while the animal is awake because the procedure is quick and relatively painless. If a larger or deeper sample is needed it may be necessary to use a local or general anesthetic. The biopsy sample is examined under the microscope either in your veterinarian's office or is sent to a veterinary pathologist. Abscesses and sialoceles can often be diagnosed immediately based on the material extracted from the lump. A microscopic examination of the biopsy sample will be necessary to differentiate types or presence of cancer. Additionally, an x-ray may be recommended if an abscess is present, especially of the teeth, or if a malignant tumor is suspected. For all suspected malignant tumors, an x-ray of the chest should be performed to determine if the tumor has spread. A complete blood cell count and/or serum biochemistry might be performed in the case of abscesses, enlarged lymph nodes and tumors to detect abnormalities in other organs and the immune system. These blood tests may also be performed to determine if your pet is in good enough health to undergo surgery if it is the recommended treatment.
TREATMENT
The recommended treatment for most skin masses is complete surgical removal. In the case of abscesses, it may be advantageous to put the pet on oral antibiotics first and then surgically remove the abscess along with its thickened wall after some of the swelling has subsided. The source of the abscess should be removed such as an infected tooth or an infected anal gland. Cysts should be removed if they are persistent or become enlarged. Sialoceles are treated by draining the pocket of saliva and then keeping the area open until it heals. If multiple lymph nodes are enlarged, it is necessary to remove at least one to determine the cause and future treatment.
In my opinion, all skin tumors should be removed as soon as possible because of the potential for malignancy. Since most pets are excellent surgical candidates with the proper anesthesia, I often do not biopsy a tumor presurgically, but rather remove it entirely and then have it examined by a pathologist postoperatively. It is important to have a pathologist make a diagnosis on a surgically removed mass to determine if future treatment is necessary. Although the prognosis for aggressive, malignant tumors is guarded to grave, some pets benefit from chemo or other therapy postsurgically. It is my opinion that one should never adopt a “wait and see attitude” in pets with skin tumors. It is much easier to prevent localized disease with early removal than deal with systemic problems because you waited too long.
Skin masses are usually removed under a general anesthesia. Either conventional surgical techniques are employed or electrosurgery. Unless the lump was an abscess, or the surgical site was grossly contaminated, it should be unnecessary to use antibiotics postsurgically. Sutures or staples may be placed in the skin or absorbable sutures may be hidden under the skin. You should examine the surgical site at least twice a day for any drainage, swelling or loss of sutures. If the surgical site was large or very deep, the pet will benefit from the use of analgesics for a few days postoperatively.
So…as you can see, this need not be a complex issue. If you find a lump, get it attended to now, not later. Be prepared that often the best course of action is surgical removal. Your pet will thank for your prompt action!

Capturing a feral cat

2009-04-23T09:35:00.000-07:00

Capturing a Feral Cat
The best way to capture a feral cat is with a cage or the "hav-a-heart" traps commonly used by humane societies. Good bait is essential, since these guys can't be fooled twice, so a good piece of raw meat or fresh game is best. However, a nice fish head will work in a pinch. Hide the trap under a blanket or woodpile to disguise it. If you need to catch more than one cat, this will prevent the loose cats from knowing what the trap does. Also, the cat you are trying to catch may be disturbed by the appearance of the trap, so covering or disguising it may be your best way to entice the animal in.Once you catch the cat, take it to the vet to be spayed or neutered and given vaccinations. You might also have it tested for feline leukemia, since there isn't much you can do if the poor thing is sick. I know people who run foster homes for FeLV positive cats, but I can't go near them. I don't want to bring that home to my babies.
Once you have taken care of the cat with the vet, you have a decision to make. Keep and tame the cat or let it loose in the colony. If you decide to let it loose, you can be comfortable knowing the cat is healthy, and won't breed any more. This will serve to lengthen its life, if nothing else. No longer interested in mating, a male won't be so inclined to fight with other cats. Females will build strength after being mothers so many times. They will become nice outdoor cats in your yard if you feed them.

Feline Aggression

2009-04-23T08:21:00.001-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

FELINE AGGRESSION: TERRITORIAL AND FEAR AGGRESSION TO HOUSEHOLD CATS

What is territorial aggression?
Territorial aggression may be exhibited toward people or other animals (usually cats) that approach or reside on the pet’s property. Aggression can occur toward outside cats or to cats that live in the same household, especially new cats coming into the territory. This can occur with the addition of another cat, or when resident cats reach social maturity at 1-2 years of age. Another situation is when one cat is removed from the household (perhaps for routine surgery or boarding), and aggression is exhibited when the cat is brought back into the home. This aggression may be a combination of territorial and fear based aggression (perhaps the returning cat smells, looks or acts unfamiliar in some way).
Territorial aggression can manifest as stalking, chasing and aggressive encounters, which may lead to injury. At times the aggressor will prevent the victim from having access to certain areas of the home, resulting in a cat that lives on top of furniture, bookshelves or under beds. This may in part be related to the social relationship (status) of each cat and can lead to other problems such as house soiling and non-litter box use. Although the aggression of one cat to another may be due to territoriality, there are also components of fear, sociability and social status that contribute equally, or perhaps in some cases more, to the aggressive response. (See our handout on ‘Aggression – introduction to aggressive behavior’).

How can territorial aggression be prevented?
Territorial aggression can be prevented or minimized with early socialization, patient and slow introductions of new cats, and adequate resources, including litter boxes and food bowls plus sufficient space for climbing, hiding and dispersing. However, when a new cat is introduced (or reintroduced) into a household with existing cats, problems can best be prevented by slowly introducing the new cat to the environment, by keeping the new cat in a separate room with water and kitty litter, and by supervising all interactions. The correct time to begin cat-to-cat interactions can be highly variable. If both cats have had adequate socialization with other cats, and are not too timid or fearful, it may only be a matter of a few days to a few weeks before the cats work things out on their own and are able to share the territory with little or no aggressive displays. However, in some homes, the aggression between cats persists. In these cases, a lengthy separation is likely to be required in addition to a more formal desensitization and counter-conditioning program.

What is the best way to safely introduce (or reintroduce) a cat into the household?
In order to ensure that there are no injuries and that all introductions are positive, a desensitization and counter-conditioning program is the best way to ease or re-introduce a cat into a household (See our handouts on behavior modification, systematic desensitization, feline fear and multi-cat households).

Begin by confining the “new” cat to a room or portion of the home with its own litter box, food, bedding, perching area, play toys and water. Allow the existing cat to continue to have access to the rest of the home. This arrangement provides a separate territory within the home for each cat, and allows both cats an opportunity to adapt to the smell and sounds of each other, without the possibility of direct contact or physical confrontation. If the new cat is housed in a screened-in porch or a room with a glass door, it may also be possible to allow the cats to see each other through a safe partition. Be certain to provide sufficient play, social interactions and even a little reward training with each of the cats. If you are planning to use a crate or a harness and leash for exposure exercises, be certain to spend some time training the cats to accept the harness and to get accustomed to their crates. A Feliway™ diffuser or Feliway™ spray on the cat’s bedding or in its crate may help each cat to adapt and settle more quickly. Offer small meal portions (rather than free choice feeding) and treats on opposite sides of the common doorway to increase the proximity of the cats. Remember that, by separating the cats, you are not only providing an opportunity for them to adapt to the presence of the other cat, but also to prevent threats, fearful displays and attacks which would only add to the fear and anxiety. When the cats show no fear, anxiety, or threat toward each other behind closed doors, it may be useful to switch positions, with the other cat confined while the new cat is allowed household access. The next step is to progress to controlled exposure exercises. Training should occur when the cats can be occupied in a highly “rewarding” activity such as feeding, play, or treats. Provided both cats are far enough apart to minimize the possibility of aggression, and the reward is sufficiently appealing, the cats will focus on the rewards rather than each other. In addition, if the rewards are saved exclusively for these introduction times, the cats will quickly learn to expect “good things to happen” in the presence of each other (counter-conditioning). In addition to ensuring that the cats are at a safe enough distance to minimize fear, both cats (or at least the one that is likely to be the aggressor) can be confined to an open wire mesh cage or a body harness and leash. This will ensure that the cats can neither escape nor injure each other, and provides a practical means for controlling distance between the cats for desensitization and counter-conditioning. If the cats have been in cages during the first training session, they can be placed in each other’s cages at the next session (so that each cat is exposed to the other cat’s odor). Using cage confinement of one or both cats, or a leash and harness on one or both cats, the cats can be brought progressively closer at each subsequent feeding session, as long as there has been no fear or anxiety and both remain interested in the food. Over time the cats are fed closer together until a point where the cats can eat or take treats in each other’s presence.

Another way to integrate cats is with play therapy. Some cats are more interested in play, toys or catnip than they are in food. One of the best toys is a wand or fishing rod handle with a stimulating play toy such as a catnip mouse or feathers on the end for chasing and pouncing. Begin by having both cats play at a distance from each other. Again, one cat can be kept in a crate with food while the other is out with play therapy. A leash and harness can also be used to ensure success. Over time, introduce the toys between the cats and let them play with the toys together.

What if the aggression between the cats persists?
Introductions must be done slowly. The cats need to be far enough apart that they are relaxed and will take food or a treat while in the presence of the other cat. If the cats will not eat then they are too anxious and probably too close together, and the introductions are not accomplishing the goal of learning to associate the other cat with pleasant things. If the cats will not eat in each other’s presence, try moving the dishes further apart. If one or both of the cats still will not eat, separate the cats, do not give any food, and repeat introductions with food in a couple of hours. If the cats eat at that time, repeat using the same distance at the next feeding. If things go well, the next time the dishes can be moved closer together, but only by a small increment. If introductions where the cats can see one another are not successful, you will have to start with a much milder level of the stimulus. You might begin by keeping the cats in their own rooms and feeding on opposite sides of the door. A glass or screen door would then allow you to add the stimulus of sight while you feed the cats on opposite sides of the door. While they are usually aware of the other cat, the fear or anxiety might be diminished and the cat will eat. Next, the door might be propped open a few inches so that the cats can see each other while they eat. Cats that are too anxious or aggressive for even this type of introduction may get more quickly accustomed to the other cat if a cloth or brush is used to rub and groom one of the cats and then used on the other cat while giving favored food and treats.

This is a slow process; you cannot rush things. Allowing either cat to interact in an aggressive manner sets the program back. The cats must remain separated except during times such as feeding when the cats are distracted, occupied, and engaged in an enjoyable act. In other words, good things are associated with the presence of the other cat. If the cats are doing well, you might want to increase their time together. However, if there are specific times, specific resources or specific areas of the home where threats or aggression are likely to recur, long term or permanent separation at all times except for supervised social play, feeding and training might be necessary. Although preventing recurrence is the goal, there may be occasions where aggression begins to recur. At the earliest signs of fear or anxiety, it would be preferable to distract the cats with a “come” command (if command reward trained), or by pulling on the leash and harness, if one has been left attached. In this way the aggressor is inhibited and the fearful cat (which might be stimulating further chase and attack by the aggressor) may begin to feel more confident when the owner is around to supervise and inhibit. Counter-condition and reward the fearful cat for not running away. Reward and counter-condition the aggressor cat if it comes to you, settles down and leaves the other cat alone. With enough different litter boxes, climbing areas and places to hide, it should be possible for many cats to adapt and remain together (or perhaps be separated while the owners cannot supervise). Another option is to install an electronic cat door through which one cat can escape to its own room. These cat doors will only open for the cat wearing the activation collar.

Despite slow and careful progression, some cats may continue to display aggression, and it may be necessary to accept that they may never be compatible housemates. Although cats do live in social groups, they also have the opportunity to leave them if they do not feel welcome. The social groups we create in the home do not provide that opportunity. The only way to avoid territorial competition in these cats may be to find a new home for one of the cats, or to provide separate living quarters for each cat within the home. If the cats get along at certain times of the day, they can then be allowed limited exposure and interaction at these times. A leash and harness, or perhaps an air horn or water rifle, could be used to safely separate the cats should any aggressive displays emerge. If the problem is too severe, it may be helpful to medicate one or both cats. The option of drug therapy should be discussed with your veterinarian.

Hip Dysplasia

2009-04-23T07:02:00.001-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

HIP DYSPLASIA

I have been told that my dog has hip dysplasia but she isn’t lame. Can the diagnosis be correct?
Hip dysplasia is a deformity of the hip that occurs during growth. The hip joint is a “ball and socket” joint. During growth both the “ball” (the head of the femur or thighbone) and the “socket” in the pelvis (acetabulum) must grow at equal rates.

In hip dysplasia this uniform growth does not occur. The result is laxity of the joint followed by degenerative joint disease or arthritis, which is the body’s attempt to stabilize the loose hip joint.

The degree of lameness that occurs is dependent on the extent of these arthritic changes and may not be correlated with the appearance of the hip joint on x-rays. Some pets with significant signs of hip dysplasia on x-rays may not exhibit any clinical signs while others with minimal changes may experience severe pain and lameness.

What causes it?
There are two primary causes of hip dysplasia, genetics and diet. The genes involved have not been conclusively identified, but it is believed to involve more than one gene. Advances in nutritional research have shown that diet plays an important role in the development of hip dysplasia. Large breed puppies should be fed a special diet during the first year of life to reduce this risk.

If it is hereditary, are certain breeds affected more than others?
Yes, although any dog can be affected, it is predominantly seen in larger dogs such as German Shepherds, Saint Bernards, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrieves, Old English Sheepdogs and Bulldogs. Mixed-breed large dogs are also at risk for developing hip dysplasia and should also be fed a special large breed growth diet the first year.

What symptoms should I look for?
Weakness and pain in the hindlegs are the usual clinical signs. The dog appears wobbly and is reluctant to rise from a sitting or lying position. This can be seen in puppies a few months old but is most common in dogs one to two years of age.

Dogs with mild hip dysplasia on x-ray may develop minimal arthritis without clinical signs until they are older.

How is it diagnosed?
A hip radiograph is the preferred method for diagnosing hip dysplasia. Clinical signs and palpable joint laxity may also indicate hip dysplasia. Any pet suspected of having hip dysplasia should be radiographed as soon as possible.

What is the treatment?
This depends upon the pet’s clinical signs and amount of discomfort. There are very effective non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) that have minimal side effects. The choice of medication is made on an individual basis and various drugs may need to be tried before finding the most effective one. Most dogs with hip dysplasia should receive veterinary-approved glucosamine-chondroitin sulfate nutritional supplements.

What if NSAIDs don’t help?
The alternative to NSAID therapy is surgery. There are several surgical procedures available to treat hip dysplasia. The two most surgical techniques for hip dysplasia are total hip replacement and femoral head ostectomy (FHO). The choice of surgery will be determined by your pet’s condition and lifestyle.

I originally intended to breed my dog. What should I do?
Hip dysplasia is a genetic or inherited disease. We do not recommend that any pet showing any signs of hip dysplasia be bred.

What else can I do to reduce the risk of hip dysplasia?
Large breed or at-risk puppies should be fed a special large-breed growth diet during their first year of life. Your veterinarian will give you specific feeding guidelines to ensure that you are providing the best care for your dog.

Is there anything else I ought to know?
If you decide to purchase a large breed puppy, make sure that the parents are certified clear of hip dysplasia. Dogs can be certified by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA). If both parents of the large breed puppy you are interested in aren’t OFA-certified, you should choose another dog.

For more information on selecting a large breed puppy or hip dysplasia, contact your veterinarian.

Cats travel on planes evryday

2009-04-22T06:43:00.000-07:00

AIRLINE TRAVEL WITH YOUR CAT

Cats travel on planes every day. Although some unfortunate events may occur on rare occasions, these can be usually avoided if some simple precautions are followed. It is impossible to overemphasize the need to consult with the airline well in advance of your trip. This is essential if you hope to avoid last minute problems. Here are some basic tips for airline travel with your cat:

Determine whether the airline has requirements for “acclimation.” In the event that you are unable to secure a direct flight, the pet carrier may be left outside the plane for a period of time. To avoid liability on their part, some airlines require a letter from your veterinarian stating that the pet is acclimated to a minimum or maximum temperature. It is important to find out if the airline requires that the acclimation temperature be given precisely, such as 20°F (-7°C) for a defined period of time.
Consult with the airline regarding baggage liability. In some cases, this can include your pet. If you are sending a pet, you may need to consider additional liability insurance.

Have your cat examined by your veterinarian in advance of the trip, especially if it has been more than a few months since the last checkup. This is especially important for senior cats. Travel by plane can pose a risk for cats with pre-existing medical problems, such as heart or kidney disease. Also, some short-faced breeds of cats such as Himalayans, Persians and Exotic Shorthairs do not travel well in certain situations.

Be sure that you have written proof of current vaccinations and a valid health certificate. These cannot be obtained “after the fact.” You must be able to present them on demand. Most countries now require an international health certificate that may not be available from your veterinarian, or that may require a signature from a government official. Some countries have specific requirements for blood testing or antiparasitic treatment that must be performed within a certain time interval prior to the trip. The specific requirements can be obtained from the consulate’s office, or by searching government websites for the country of interest. The appropriate documentation may take several days to arrive.

You should also inquire about possible requirements to quarantine your cat should you be traveling to a foreign country.

Take direct flights if possible, and try to avoid connections and layovers. Sometimes, this is easier to achieve if the trip is planned during the week. The well-being of your cat could be a source of concern if the baggage connection between flights should be missed.

Some airlines will allow one pet in coach and one in first class, with some provisions. To find out whether there are limitations on the number of animals present in the cabin, you should advise the airline if you plan to travel with your cat in the cabin. Check on the cage dimensions and requirements so that there won’t be a problem stowing the carrier beneath the seat. Some airlines require that the pet be able to stand upright in the carrier. A collapsible fabric carrier is suitable for this situation. Be sure to check out your airline’s specific carrier requirements prior to travel.

Consider in advance all medications that you might need for your cat. These might include heartworm and flea preventive, or any regular prescription medications that your cat may require. If your cat is on a specific diet, especially a therapeutic diet, you need to ensure that it will be available at your destination, or else take along a sufficient supply.
You should outfit your cat with an identification tag attached to a collar or harness. The tag should contain contact information in case the cat escapes from its carrier. You should include a leash for secure restraint in case the cat needs to be taken out of the carrier.

Take a supply of fresh drinking water and water bowls to provide your cat with fresh water during layovers and waits. There are many collapsible water and food containers available that will often fit in your cat’s carry-on carrier.

What should I do at the time of the flight?
Do not tranquilize or sedate your cat unless you have discussed this with your veterinarian. Cats do not tolerate some medicines well and giving over-the-counter or prescription pharmaceuticals can be dangerous or fatal.

Make sure that the carrier has permanent identification, including your name, phone number, flight schedule, destination, and a phone number at the point of destination.

Feed your cat before you leave home. Water should be available at all times, including inside the carrier. If you have a senior cat with marginal kidney function, it is important that it not be deprived of water, even for a few hours. Discuss this with your veterinarian. Try to secure a direct flight with no or minimal layovers. Your cat should have fresh water after arrival.

What should I look for in a travel cat carrier?
The carrier should provide sufficient room for the cat to stand up and turn around easily, but not so large that the cat can be tossed about inside during turbulence. Remember that airlines have special requirements for onboard carriers.

The walls of the carrier should be strong enough to prevent the sides from being crushed. Also, the flooring of the cage should not allow urine to leak through the bottom. An absorptive underpad designed for bedridden people with bladder control problems can be placed in the bottom. See your pharmacist for these.

The carrier should have good ventilation.

The carrier must have sturdy handles for baggage personnel to use.

The carrier should have a water tray which is accessible from the outside so that water can be added, if needed.

Pet stores, breeders, and kennels usually sell carriers that meet these requirements. Some airlines also sell carriers that they prefer to use. Check with the airline to see if they have other requirements.

Try to familiarize your cat with the travel carrier before you leave for your trip. Give your cat access to the carrier both with the door open and closed. This will help eliminate some of your cat's stress during the trip.

What arrangements should I make at the destination site?
Be sure that your hotel will allow cats. There are many internet sites and travel guidebooks with this type of information.

Provide a litter pan and food and water bowls for the hotel room.

Place a “Do Not Disturb” sign on your hotel door so that housekeeping will not inadvertently let the cat escape. Plan to have your room cleaned only when you are present and your cat is secured in its carrier.

It is probably best to leave the cat in the carrier or inside the bathroom whenever you plan to leave the room.

Should your cat get lost, contact the local animal control officer.

Advance planning is the key to a safe trip with your pet!

Hypothyroid dogs classically are overweight and tend to be inactive.

2009-04-21T12:39:00.001-07:00

Hypothyroidism in Dogs

Hypothyroid dogs classically are overweight and tend to be inactive.

Hypothyroidism is the condition where one has inadequate active thyroid hormone. It is a common human ailment and is also the most common hormone imbalance of dogs. It seems like hypothyroidism would be a straight forward problem: the body does not produce enough thyroid hormone, disease results, a test shows thyroid hormone level is low, additional hormone is taken as a pill, problem solved. Unfortunately, the situation is not quite so straight-forward in real life. Here we review the issues relevant to this condition and the pitfalls that keep it from being a simple problem.

What is the Thyroid Gland and What does it do?

The dog’s thyroid glands are located on either side of the windpipe (trachea).

The human thyroid glands actually connect across the windpipe forming what is classically decribed as an H.

The thyroid gland forms an H in a human throat as shown in the graphic above, although in dogs, the thyroid exists as two separate halves. The thyroid produces two forms of thyroid hormone: T3, which is the active form of the hormone, and T4, which is the inactive form created to circulate in the bloodstream. When T4 is absorbed into tissue cells, it is converted into T3. Most of the circulating T4 is carried by blood proteins and is not available for tissue absorption; the portion that is not carried by proteins (the so-called “free T4”) is the portion that is able to enter tissues for activation. The thyroid gland itself can also activate T4 into T3. In dogs about half of the T3 comes from the thyroid gland and the remaining half comes from the body’s other tissues. In humans, 80% of T3 comes from activation in the body’s other tissues.

Production of T4 is regulated by the pituitary gland at the base of the brain. (This gland is called the master gland as it regulates hormone production in the adrenal system, the thyroid system, the reproductive system, and more). The pituitary produces a substance called TSH, which stands for thyroid stimulating hormone. When T4 levels are dropping, the pituitary gland stimulates the thyroid gland to make and release more T4.

Active thyroid hormone serves as a sort of a volume dial for metabolism. Since virtually every cell in the body can be affected by reduced levels of thyroid hormone, it is not surprising that reduced levels of thyroid hormone lead to symptoms in multiple body systems.

What is Hypothyroidism?

In short, hypothyroidism is the natural deficiency of thyroid hormone. This deficiency is produced by immune-mediated destruction of the thyroid gland, by natural atrophy of the gland, by dietary iodine deficiency, or as a congenital problem. In dogs, the first two causes listed account for almost all cases, although currently the feeling is that atrophy of the gland actually represents the end result of earlier immune-mediated destruction of the gland.

Hypothyroidism generally develops in middle aged or elderly dogs. Breeds with definite predisposition to develop hypothyroidism include: the Doberman pinscher, the golden retriever, the Irish setter, the Great Dane, the dachshund, and the boxer.

Manifestations of Hypothyroidism

Hypothyroidism is a classical disease with a classical collection of clinical signs. One particularly well-published survey of 162 confirmed hypothyroid dogs showed the following common findings:

88% had some kind of skin abnormality

40% had hair loss (often this starts on the tail leading to a rat tail appearance or a bald area around the collar is created.)
22% had skin infection (often dogs are scaly and smelly due to an excessively oily coat.)
14% had brittle or dry coats (often the outer hairs break off leaving a short, softer under coat, classically described as a “puppy-like coat.”)
49% were obese
48% were described as lethargic or listless at home
36% were anemic (had a reduced number of red blood cells due to slowed red blood cell production in the bone marrow.) This is a good place to note that elevated blood cholesterol levels are also considered a common finding of hypothyroidism.
One classical finding in hypothyroid dogs is a thickening of some tissues, especially of the face and head. The skin in particular thickens, leading to more skin folds and what is classically referred to as a tragic face. This thickening is called myxedema and can occur in some other tissues as well (such as facial nerves – see later).

Cardiovascular Signs
Hypothyroidism interferes with the electrical fibers that more or less provide the wiring for the heart. The rhythmic contractions of heart muscle are normally stimulated by these electrochemical fibers. Abnormal rhythms or slow heart rate occur in as many as 26% of hypothyroid dogs; still, the significance of this in terms of overall lifestyle is not clear. Many specialists feel thyroid supplementation should be started at a lower dose for patients with obvious heart disease.

Neurologic Signs
According to surveys of confirmed hypothyroid dogs, only about 2 to 4% have nerve problems. There are several syndromes reported.

Polyneuropathy – In hypothyroidism, nerves simply do not conduct electrical impulses normally. This may account for some of the general weakness and listlessness seen in hypothyroidism. Response to thyroid hormone therapy is rapid (improvement within the first week of treatment).
Focal Neuropathy – Single nerves can get entrapped as they exit the skull or spinal cord as they (like other tissues) swell with myxedema. Pressure on these nerves can lead to paralysis of the facial muscles and/or head tilt, bizarre eye motions and balance disruption (vestibular disease).
Central Nervous System –This may represent abnormal electrical conduction within nerves; however, vascular disease has been found in hypothyroid dogs with central nervous system signs. Clinical signs have involved ataxia (drunken gait), hemiparesis (weakness in front and back legs on the same side of the body), hypermetria (inappropriate measurement of steps), head tilt, circling and cranial nerve abnormalities. It may take several months of therapy to see a response. Coma from myxedema in the brain’s tissues is a rare possibility but has been known to occur.

Ocular Signs

A dog’s eye showing a white “crescent” of corneal dystrophy.

Ocular changes are not common in hypothyroidism but the high levels of blood cholesterol and circulating fat can sometimes lead to eye changes. When these changes are seen, often thyroid testing is recommended. Corneal dystrophy, an abnormal change in the clear covering of the eye, is such a sign. This finding is usually represented as a small white spot (sometimes a white circle) on the eye surface. At this degree it is only a cosmetic problem and does not interfere with vision. In more severe forms, painful bubbles can erupt on the corneal surface, leading to ulceration. Obviously, this form would require treatment.

Conditions not proven (but previously suspected) to be associated with hypothyroidism are: megaesophagus, laryngeal paralysis, infertility, and behavioral aggression.

Von Willebrand’s Disease

For a long time, von Willebrand’s disease, a hereditary blood clotting disease, was felt to be associated with hypothyroidism (when a dog borderline for von Willebrand’s factor levels became hypothyroid later in life, the abnormal clotting ability would become evident.) This theory has largely been abandoned but there does seem to be a positive effect when a von Willebrand’s dog is treated with thyroid hormone.

See more information on von Willebrand's disease.

Testing for Hypothyroidism

You would think testing for hypothyroidism would be simple: a blood test of the T3 or T4 level could be checked and if it is low, the patient is hypothyroid. Unfortunately, the situation is rarely so simple.

Measurement of T3
If T3 is the active hormone, why can’t we just test blood levels of T3? Due to assorted compensatory mechanisms, T3 levels often fluctuate into the normal range in even truly hypothyroid dogs. This means that T3 values are virtually useless in diagnosing hypothyroidism.

Measurement of T4
The T4 level (also called the total T4 level) is measured commonly and is included in many routine screening blood panels. It would seem that a low T4 would indicate hypothyroidism and a normal T4 would indicate normal thyroid function. Unfortunately, it isn’t that simple. Dogs taking certain drugs (most notably seizure medications phenobarbitaland potassium bromide; prednisoneor other corticosteroids; non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs; the heart medication propranolol; the behavior drug clomipramine; or sulfa class antibiotics) or with illnesses other than thyroid disease often have depressed T4 secretion. These dogs will have low T4 levels but are not hypothyroid. This means a normal T4 indicates normal thyroid function but a low T4 may or may not indicate hypothyroidism. There is also a grey zone where T4 results are considered not definitively normal and not definitively abnormal. In short, T4 alone is not adequate to make a diagnosis of hypothyroidism.

It should be noted that the sighthounds normally have much lower T4 levels than other breeds. In greyhounds, for example, the T4 levels typically run about 50% of what other breeds do. Interestingly, their T3 levels have the same normal range as other breeds.

Free T4
As mentioned, T4 is the precursor hormone that is not active but is converted by body tissues into T3, which is active. T4 exists in two forms: the form that is carried around bonded to a blood protein (this is called bound T4) and T4 floating around loose in the bloodstream (called free T4). Only free T4 can enter cells and be converted to T3 and the concentration of free T4 corresponds to thyroid hormone activity where it counts (i.e. at the tissue level). Free T4 levels are less subject to fluctuate into a falsely low range in response to non-thyroidal diseases or drugs than is a total T4 level.

Free T4 levels are typically 1000 times smaller than total T4 levels plus tests for free T4 have to work in such a way so as not to convert bound T4 into free T4 and thus interfere with results. Because of these two issues, it is somewhat difficult to test for free T4 and the only acceptable way to do this is by a method called equilibrium dialysis. At this time, most labs offer equilibrium dialysis free T4 but it is important to realize that a free T4 level on a lab report is not an equilibrium dialysis free T4 unless it specifically says so. (Equilibrium dialysis free T4 is sometimes notated “fT4(ED)”.)

TSH Stimulation and Endogenous TSH levels
Before there was readily available equilibrium dialysis free T4, the test that was felt to be the gold standard of reliability was called the TSH stimulation test. In this test, a T4 was measured and then compared with a value drawn 8 hours after administration of an injection of thyroid stimulating hormone (TSH). Inability to respond to TSH was considered indicative of hypothyroidism. The problem was expense, the need for 8 hours of hospitalization, and the fact that injectable TSH was frequently off the market. This test is rarely performed nowadays.

TSH can be directly measured in a patient’s bloodstream. The idea is that the pituitary gland should be secreting high levels of TSH in a futile attempt to stimulate a diseased thyroid gland. Measurement of TSH level is an important means of diagnosing hypothyroidism in humans and a canine version of the test was long sought. Unfortunately, when it finally became available, it was found that many dogs (approximately 25%) with true hypothyroidism did not have elevated TSH levels as one would expect; still, this test is often helpful in making the diagnosis of hypothyroidism.

Antithyroglobulin Antibodies (The TGAA test)
Some thyroid testing panels include a measurement of antibodies against the thyroid gland proteins from which thyroid hormones are made. The presence of these antibodies confirms the immune-mediated form of hypothyroidism (though in later stages of this disease, antibodies are no longer produced). The only significance of this test, other than academic interest, is to identify patients that are positive for antibodies yet have normal thyroid hormone tests. These animals have a 20% chance of becoming hypothyroid later on, so regular periodic testing of thyroid hormone levels would be a good idea. Treatment of hypothyroid animals that are positive for antibodies is the same as treatment for that that are antibody negative; the only practical use of the test is to identify animals at risk for becoming hypothyroid later on.

Testing with a Trial of Medication
Sometimes the only way to test for hypothyroidism is to simply administer the medication for several months and see what happens. Often an improvement in attitude and energy level is seen within the first week. Hair re-growth takes substantially longer (typically 4 months minimum) as the follicles must reawaken and then grow hair long enough to create a visible coat change.

Treatment of Hypothyroidism

At least treatment of hypothyroidism is relatively straight forward; hypothyroidism is treated with oral administration of thyroid hormone (T4). Even hypothyroid dogs are perfectly capable of converting T4 to T3. Pills are given usually twice daily to start but may be dropped to once a day after good thyroid control has been achieved.

There are many brands of thyroid supplementation available and prices are somewhat variable depending on the manufacturer.

TREATMENT IS FOR THE LIFE OF THE DOG

Occasionally we are asked if it is reasonable to use dried or powdered thyroid glands of hogs or cattle as a more “natural” form of treatment. The answer is simply no. These products are not produced with adequate quality control to ensure that they contain a reliable amount of thyroid hormone. Each dose may be completely different when such a product is used.

Re-testing later on
Whenever an animal goes on a medication long term, periodic blood testing is a good idea. In the case of hypothyroidism treatment, it is important to know if the medication dose is too low or too high. Thyroxine (T4) is a safe medication but if it is not given in adequate doses, obviously the patient will not be adequately treated. If the dose is too high and given for too long a time, excessive water consumption, weight loss, and restlessness can result.

Monitoring with T4
The lowest thyroid level of the day is found by taking the blood sample right before a tablet would normally be given. The highest level of the day is found by taking the blood sample 4 to 6 hours after it is given. Expect one or both such tests to be periodically recommended. Our hospital recommends some type of blood test monitoring annually.

Monitoring with TSH level
The canine thyroid stimulating hormone level (abbreviated cTSH) does not seem to require any particular timing issues and can be run on a blood sample taken any time of the day. The cTSH level will not indicate whether or not the thyroid dose is too high but is quite accurate at determining if the level is too low. (Inadequate treatment is associated with high TSH levels indicating that the pituitary gland is vainly trying to stimulate the thyroid gland with high levels of stimulating hormone). This test may be run instead of or in addition to a T4 level when it comes time to monitor thyroid hormone treatment.

Is the Diagnosis Correct?

Because of difficulties in diagnostic testing methods, many dogs have been erroneously diagnosed with hypothyroidism and have been on medication for years. If there is any question about a patient and one wishes to re-test, thyroid hormone supplementation must be discontinued at least 2 months for blood testing to be valid. If possible, medications known to interfere with testing should be discontinued for testing (though this is obviously not always possible).

Other Hypothyroidism Resources

Soloxine is a one of the major veterinary brands of thyroxine (T4). See the manufacturer’s information on soloxine.

The Orthopedics Foundation for Animals has extended its registry to include many non-orthopedic conditions including hypothyroidism. See information on registration, statistical trends in different breeds, etc. at their website.

My Stinky Dog

2009-04-21T11:02:00.001-07:00

Doggy Odor

Dog owners often complain about their dog’s odor. It is important to recognize that dog odors have many sources, both natural and un-natural.

Natural Dog Odors

Dogs naturally produce secretions whose function is to allow for other dogs to recognize them as dogs and as individuals. People do not always appreciate these signals! Natural dog odors are most prominent near the anus, near the ears, and around the footpads.

Skin Glands: Dogs do not produce sweat for thermoregulation. Dogs do have sweat glands, though, called apocrine glands, associated with each group of hairs. It is suspected that these glands produce pheromones or chemical signals for communication with other dogs.

Dogs also have sweat glands on the pads of their paws and on their noses that help keep these moist and functioning properly, the eccrine glands. On the paw pads, natural micro-organisms living in the surface layers contribute to the typical odor of dog paw pads, which is a little like the odor of Cheese puff snacks! This odor is much more noticeable on dogs with moist paw pads than on those with dry pads.

Dogs also have numerous glands in their external ear canals called ceruminous glands and sebaceous glands. Together these two sets of glands produce natural ear wax, or cerumen. Micro-organisms live naturally in this material and give the ears a slightly yeasty odor even when healthy.

Dogs, like all carnivores, have two scent glands or anal sacs that communicate with the surface of the skin by ducts that open on either side of the anus. They produce a natural secretion that varies from thin and yellowish to pasty and grayish and with a very strong musty odor. A small amount of this material is normally deposited when dogs defecate and a large amount may be extruded when a dog is frightened. This secretion is thought to leave a signal to other dogs telling them who left fecal deposit. This odor is also the signal being sampled when strange dogs investigate one another by sniffing out the anal area.

Another source of odor that can be considered natural results from a common dog behavior. Dogs like to roll in and mark themselves with some natural products of other animals in their environment, including fecal deposits of natural prey animals. One of their favorites is rabbit droppings. This might be a method of communicating with pack members about the other animals that are active in the pack home territory - a behavior left over from ancestor wolves.

Un-natural Sources of Odor on Pet Dogs

Poor grooming of a dog with long, thick or corded hair can cause the haircoat to be a source of unpleasant odor. A coat that is not kept clean and groomed can trap dirt and other substances with unpleasant odors and if chronically wet, it can harbor lots of bacteria and yeast. Some dog breeds just depend on people to keep their coats healthy and odor-free!

Skin diseases can cause abnormal odors on affected dogs. Allergy causes increased sweating, and this creates a musty odor. This is termed hyperhidrosis, and it encourages yeast infection or bacterial skin infection. These micro-organisms produce odors as well. Dogs with seborrhea or keratinization defect, and dogs with deep skin folds (such as on the face of an English bulldog), are subject to secondary proliferation of bacteria or yeast on the skin surface as well.

Ear disease (otitis) is a common source of odor in dogs. The smell can be yeasty or actually smell like sewage. Anal sac disease or excessive anal sac production can cause a very musty pungent odor.

Anal sacs can become abscessed and infecting micro-organisms produce odor.

Dental disease or mouth ulcers can produce bad breath (halitosis). Dental calculus harbors numerous bacteria that produce the odor. Dental disease can also lead to excessive drooling, causing skin around the mouth to become infected, leading to more odor production.

Some medications, especially antibiotics, or medicated shampoos have odors that owners may find unpleasant. Chlorhexidine is a common disinfectant incorporated in skin medications that some people find has an unpleasant smell. Also, some dog foods based on fish meal or with added fish oil can make for fishy-smelling dogs.

Flatulence can be a problem for some dogs. This may be diet-related or a sign of gastrointestinal disease. This, in fact, may be the most commonly noticed source of unpleasant odor from dogs feed cereal-based commercial dog foods.

Skunks and dogs don’t mix well and a dog may be sprayed in the encounter. This results in an over-powering musky acrid odor that remains apparent in the 'skunked' dog’s coat for many days or even weeks until steps are taken to neutralize the odor.

My dog has excessive gas. What is this called?

2009-04-21T06:53:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

FLATULENCE

My dog has excessive gas. What is this called?
The excessive formation of gas in the stomach or intestine is referred to as flatulence. Flatus is the medical term used to describe air or gas expelled through the anus. The term originates from the Latin flatulentus which means”a blowing”.

What causes flatulence in dogs?
The most common cause is a change in diet or from the dog eating something new or spoiled (dietary indiscretion). Most cases of chronic flatulence are caused by a diet that is poorly digested by the dog. These poorly digestible diets cause excessive fermentation in the colon and subsequent gas formation. Soybeans, peas, beans, milk products, high-fat diets and spicy foods are all commonly associated with flatulence in dogs. Dogs and cats are lactose intolerant and if they are fed milk or dairy products they will often experience flatulence and GI upset. A dog that is being fed a premium diet and is still experiencing flatulence should be tested for malassimilation (which means either poor digestion or poor absorption of nutrients from the diet).

Dogs that swallow air, especially those that eat rapidly, are more likely to experience flatulence. Overweight, obese and sedentary dogs are at higher risk for developing chronic flatulence, regardless of diet.

What are the clinical signs of flatulence?
The most common clinical signs include expulsion of gas from the anus, with or without odor, mild abdominal discomfort, mild stomach distention or bloating, and excessive gaseous sounds or rumbling from the abdomen (borborygmus). If the dog has an underlying malassimilation problem, clinical signs will also include loose stools or diarrhea, vomiting and weight loss.

How is flatulence diagnosed?
Diagnosis is based on medical history and clinical signs. Some of the common causes that must be ruled out include:
· Increased Swallowing of Air (Aerophagia)
· Gluttony or compulsive eating
· Respiratory disease
· Feeding shortly after exercise
· Brachycephalic or flat-faced breeds
· Diet
· Diets high in soybeans, peas or beans
· Diets high in fermentable fibers such as lactulose, psyllium or oat bran
· Spoiled food
· Milk and dairy products
· Sudden change in diet
· Spicy foods and food additives
· Diseases
· Inflammatory bowel disease (IBD)
· Small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (SIBO)
· Tumors
· Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS)
· Intestinal parasites
· Enteritis
· Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency (EPI)

Other diagnostic tests include fecal examination and evaluation, rectal cytology, fecal cultures, blood and urine tests, trypsin-like immunoreactivity (TLI), serum cobalamin and folate tests, abdominal radiographs, abdominal ultrasound and intestinal biopsies.

How is flatulence treated?
Treatment is based on diagnosis and commonly involves a change in diet. Diet recommendations include a diet that is highly digestible with low fiber and fat. Medical therapy may include carminitives (medications to relieve flatulence) such as zinc acetate, Yucca schidigera, and dry activated charcoal. Small, frequent feedings are encouraged for dogs that eat rapidly or are hyperexcitable. Your veterinarian will outline a treatment plan specifically designed for your pet.

What is the prognosis for resolving flatulence?
Most patients with uncomplicated cases respond well to dietary and lifestyle changes. Once offending dietary substances and products are identified, it is important to avoid them.

Vaccinations - Allergic Reactions

2009-04-20T08:47:00.001-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746

Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

Vaccinations - Allergic Reactions
With vaccination commonly recommended annually, most pet owners are accustomed to taking their pets to the vet for "yearly shots." It seems such a commonplace part of routine pet care that many people do not think about what is actually occurring within their pet's body. In fact, immunization represents stimulation of the immune system, an inherently inflammatory process. It is typical for some joint or muscle soreness to occur after vaccination, for lethargy to be observed, or for a mild fever to be present for a day or two. These reactions are not serious and generally go unnoticed. Pets may eat, drink, and exercise normally after vaccination if they want to; it is the more serious allergic reactions that need to be distinguished from the above expected phenomena.
Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions are highly individual inflammatory responses against specific proteins entering the body. These proteins can be pollens, dusts, foods, medications, or even vaccines. Within the vaccine itself, reaction can be directed against the infectious organism, stabilizers, preservatives, or residue from the vaccine organism's laboratory tissue culture.
An allergic reaction might include hives,
facial swelling, or even nausea.

More serious reactions can include shock
or sudden death (anaphylaxis).

Pepper's facial swelling is actually from an insect bite, but would look identical to the facial swelling of a vaccination reaction.

The time frame after vaccination can be immediate (the Type I reaction) or anytime in the next 48 hours (the Type IV or delayed hypersensitivity reaction.)
Which Pets are likely to have Vaccination Reactions?
In October 2005, a study by Moore et al was published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association in which over 1 million canine medical records in over 350 separate animal hospitals were reviewed. In this study, approximately one in 250 dogs had some sort of vaccination reaction, which translated to 13 reactions for every 10,000 doses of vaccine given.
The group at greatest risk for reaction were small breed young adult (age 1-3 years) neutered male dogs. As a dog's size increased, the risk of vaccination reaction dropped. Not surprisingly, the more vaccines were given at one time, the higher the risk of reaction. Some vaccine doses include vaccine against multiple organisms. These are called multivalent vaccines and include the basic distemper-parvo vaccine for dogs and some Bordetella vaccines. Since giving more vaccines at once is associated with increased risk of reaction, one might expect that the use of multivalent vaccines would also increase the risk of reaction, but surprisingly this was not found to be the case. Most reactions occur the same day as the vaccine is given.

What to do during the Reaction
If your pet is having a reaction more severe than just some general malaise or soreness, you should let your veterinarian know right away. If it is after hours, it is prudent to consult the local emergency clinic. Anti-inflammatory injections can be used to halt the inflammatory cascade before it gets dangerously out of hand. Be sure you know who to call in case of problems after your pet is vaccinated.
Vomiting may be a sign of an on-coming serious reaction,
or could represent something as mild as car sickness.
If vomiting is observed, let your veterinarian know right away.
What to do in the Future for the Pet who has had Reactions
There are many steps that can be taken to prevent allergic vaccine reactions in dogs known to have had reactions in the past:
Avoid Lyme disease, Leptospirosis, and Periodontal Vaccine
The leptospirosis portion of the DHLPP (distemper) vaccine for dogs has a reputation for being the most likely portion to cause vaccine reactions. This is largely because of the size of the organism. (Most vaccine is directed against viruses that are barely bigger than complicated molecules. The leptospirosis organism is a bacterium, meaning it is enormous and more complicated than any virus. The more complicated the organism, the more likely the reaction. That said, in the aforementioned study of over one million dogs, the leptospirosis vaccine was not found to be more likely to cause a reaction. This may be because of improved vaccine technology and using only portions of the organism rather than the entire bacterium. Other leptospirosis vaccine may not be as well produced as the one that happened to be used in this study so, as a precaution you can request that this portion be left out of your dog's vaccine.) The Lyme disease organism is also a bacterium as is the periodontal vaccine (the Porphyromonas vaccine). Again, larger vaccine organisms tend to produce more reactions.

Avoid Giving Several Vaccinations at one Time
Keep in mind that vaccines given within two weeks of each other can interfere with each other so you do not want to separate vaccines by less than a two week period but separating vaccine can mean your pet has less stimulation to deal with at one time. Breaking up vaccines also helps determine which vaccine is the culprit.

Do Not have your Pet Vaccinated at a Vaccine Clinic
Vaccination clinics are designed to provide streamlined service for healthy pets in need of their regular immunizations. These clinics are generally not prepared for the individual attention required by a pet who has a history of vaccination reaction. A pet with a vaccine reaction history should receive some special attention in the form of observation in the hospital and/or pre-treatment with anti-inflammatory medication.

Be Sure your Veterinarian is Aware of Your Pet's History of Vaccine Reaction
This sounds very obvious but I have seen many people at vaccination clinics wait until after the animal has been vaccinated before informing the veterinarian that the pet has a history of reactions.

Be Prepared to pay for Extra Pre-Medications and/or Observation in the Hospital
Medications can be used to head off allergic reactions before they happen, and with the use of these medications it is possible that a reacting pet can be vaccinated normally. To be safe, it is frequently recommended that the pet be observed for the rest of the day following vaccination, despite the medication. Consult your veterinarian regarding his/her recommendation. If a pet has suffered a severe or life-threatening reaction in the past, it is not worth continuing to expose the pet to the same allergen again.
Vaccination reactions severe enough to produce shock are EXTREMELY rare and are a function of an individual pet's immune response. Vaccination is an important part of responsible pet ownership and should not be omitted without specific veterinary guidance. Every hospital has its own policy regarding what vaccines are recommended for dogs and cats in general and what vaccines are required for boarding or grooming. Vaccine recommendations differ regionally and according to the pet's lifestyle as well as according to the philosophy of the veterinarian in charge of defining a particular hospital's policies.
Lumps that Develop at the Injection Sites
A vaccine includes an infectious organism that is rendered harmless but still capable of stimulating the immune system. In some instances the organism is live but weakened in some way. In other instances, the organism is killed. Some vaccine is made from killed bacterial organisms rather than viral organisms and other vaccine (such as the rattlesnake bite vaccine) is made against proteins and no infectious organism is involved. The larger the organism and the more complicated the proteins, the more local inflammation results after the injection and this sometimes translates into a firm knot or bump at the injection site. Similarly killed virus vaccine is often adjuvanted, meaning stabilizers are added to keep the dead virus concentrated in one spot for maximal immune stimulation. Adjuvanted vaccines tend to produce knots as well. These growths are typically noted a few weeks following vaccination and generally resolve on their own. These are not allergic reactions but are inflammatory reactions caused by the immune stimulation of the injection. If a lump persists longer than 3 months from the time of vaccination or is greater than 2 cm in diameter any time after vaccination, then it should be removed and biopsied. This is particularly true for cats as they have the potential to develop injection site tumors.
Reporting a Vaccination Reaction
The USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) is responsible for licensing animal vaccines. The agency within the USDA that is immediately responsible is the Center for Veterinary Biologics. This agency is responsible for reviewing vaccine reaction reports and considers whether or not the manufacturer must perform additional investigation. The CVB is also responsible for unannounced testing of vaccine-producing facilities. Vaccination reactions may be reported to the CVB directly or to the manufacturer, though the manufacturer is not required to pass vaccine reaction reports along to the CVB. The advantage of reporting reactions to the manufacturer instead of the CVB is that often the manufacturer will cover the costs of treatment as long as the reaction extends beyond the mild malaise that is a natural result of the vaccination process. Different manufacturers have different policies regarding reimbursement but if one finds oneself with a significant expense from a vaccine reaction, it may be worthwhile to have one's veterinarian look into reimbursement from the manufacturer. To report a vaccine reaction to Center for Veterinary Biologics visit:
www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/vet_biologics/vb_adverse_event.shtml

Runny Eyes (Epophora)

2009-04-20T06:24:00.000-07:00

Runny Eyes (Epiphora)
(Excessive tear production in dogs and cats)

Watery ocular discharge is a common concern of pet owners. Excessive tears drain down the pet’s face and, in time, the chronic exposure to moisture produces skin irritation, infection, and odor. The fur becomes stained reddish brown due to tear pigments called porphyrins, an especially non-cosmetic problem in white-furred pets. The medical term for this condition is epiphora and it is one of the most difficult conditions to resolve in all of veterinary ophthalmology.
There are two causes of epiphora (excess tearing) in pets:
irritation to the eye and abnormal tear drainage.

Irritation to the Eye
One of the eye’s natural responses to irritation is to produce more tears. This helps flush away any irritants that might have contaminated the eye surface. If excessive tearing is accompanied by squinting or pawing of the eye, or if the excessive tearing should occur suddenly, this should be taken as an obvious sign of eye pain and veterinary attention should be sought at once. Any accompanying loss of vision should be taken as an emergency.
It is the more chronic cases that are harder to manage. Eyes can certainly become chronically irritated from viral conjunctivitis (probably the most common reason for excessive tearing in cats), from glaucoma (painful increase in eye pressure in the eye), from reaction to certain eye medications, or more commonly from eyelash or eyelid abnormalities.
Some breeds of dogs naturally have hair in their eyes and this does not cause irritation, in most cases but in some cases it can. Hairs can grow from the face onto the eye and cause irritation. Eyelashes can grow at abnormal angles and rub on the eye. Eyelashes can even grow on the inner surface of the eyelids or corner of the eye and cause irritation. Often magnifying instruments are needed to discover these tiny hairs and delicate surgical procedures are needed to address them. Complicating the situation, however, is the fact that breeds that tend to have eyelid and eyelash problems also tend to be the same as those with faulty tear drainage anatomy (see below), which makes it hard to determine which of many possible causes is to blame.
Allergy, irritating dust or smog in the air, trauma, or infection can lead to excessive tears from conjunctivitis. These other problems can often be treated medically by a general practitioner.
· Corneal ulcer
· Feline upper respiratory infection
· Inhalant allergy
· Brachycephalic breeds
· Dry eye
Normal Tear Drainage

Once we are certain that the eye is not painful, we can consider that the drainage ducts of the eyes may not be normal. The normal eye is most efficient at draining tears. Look at the inner corner of the eyelids (the side nearest the nose) where you can see the pink, moist caruncle, and on the eyelid margins there are upper and lower openings called nasolacrimal puncta. These are essentially drainage holes for tears. The puncta are the openings to small passages called canaliculi which in turn open into a sac called the lacrimal sac. The lacrimal sac drains into the nasolacrimal duct, which drains tears into the nasal passages and throat. (This is why we get runny noses when we cry, why we sniffle when we cry, and why we can taste our tears when we cry).
There are many problems that can occur along this drainage route. One common problem, especially in poodles and Bichons frises as well as brachycephalic breeds, is simply that the eye socket is shallow. This means that tears overflow from the corner of the eye because the eyelid space there is not deep enough to contain them. These tears never make it to the puncta and instead spill down the sides of the nose. This condition, if present, cannot be repaired; it is simply the conformation of the dog’s face.

Alternatively, the eyelids may be turned inward (a condition called entropion) blocking the puncta and preventing drainage. Another problem may be long hair acting as a wick that draws tears from the eye to the skin, especially in breeds where hairs actually grow on the caruncle. This hair may be kept trimmed; although if the hair is part of a brachycephalic breed’s nasal skin fold, surgery may be needed to remove or alter the skin fold.
Old infections or injuries may scar the puncta, canaliculi, or nasolacrimal ducts closed. Sometimes a vigorous flushing of saline through the ducts, performed under general anesthesia, can re-open them. Sometimes the puncta are congenitally closed (common in poodles and cocker spaniels) and can be surgically re-opened.
It is fairly easy to determine if there is a problem with drainage in a non-invasive way that is sometimes called the Jones test.) A stain for eyes called fluorescein is dropped onto the eye and after a couple of minutes should be evident at the nostrils if the tear drainage system is intact.
If surgery is required in these delicate little drainage structures, special equipment is needed and a veterinary ophthalmologist is best consulted. For help finding an ophthalmologist for your pet, check www.acvo.com.
Addressing the Staining
An assortment of remedies has been suggested to resolve the unsightly reddish stains that result from chronic tear drainage. The following are some comments on suggestions we have heard.
· Low doses of tetracycline or tylosin:
Variable success has been reported but the problem is that this probably constitutes less than responsible use of antibiotics, and resistant bacterial strains may result from this practice. It is generally frowned upon by pharmacologists. It is probably worth mentioning that tetracycline should not be used in immature animals as it will cause the teeth to be stained.
· Regular wiping of the area with hydrogen peroxide basically serves to bleach the area and requires regular use to make a difference.
· Missing Link® Nutritional Supplements:
The manufacturer lists reduction in tearing and tear staining as one of the benefits of the product although they say 3 to 4 months of use are needed to see a change. Because this is a nutritional product, they are not able to formally make this claim on the label and no experimental studies have been done to prove the validity of this claim.
· Douxo Micellar Solution is also reported to cleanse away staining debris from the hair with use over time. This product is used on the fur and skin, NOT ON THE EYE.

LONG ISLAND'S MOBILE ANIMAL CARE UNIT

2009-04-09T13:01:00.001-07:00

Contact : Michel Selmer, DVM
Telephone: (631) 367-7387
E-mail: drselmer@optonline.net

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

LONG ISLAND’S MOBILE ANIMAL CARE UNIT

Michel A. Selmer, DVM, a Long Island native and resident, introduces the Mobile Animal Care Unit. In these days of cautious spending and in an environment of financial crisis he is fearful that the care of pets on Long Island will be affected. Dr. Selmer has decided to take his services on the road, and is intent on making routine and advanced animal care easily available and affordable.
Mobile animal care services provide convenience for those who have limited transportation (families with young children, seniors, those with disabilities) or time (we can treat pets while their owners are at work, doing household chores, or just cannot squeeze the time to visit the animal hospital). Pets that stress over traveling to a traditional veterinary hospital can now be treated in their homes or in the mobile animal care unit. Families with multiple pets also will benefit greatly. Weekends no longer have to be disrupted by trips to the veterinary hospital, as the hospital will come to you.
Mobile services include physical examinations, routine and preventive healthcare, vaccinations, diagnostic laboratory testing, health certificates, micro chipping, as well as gentle and compassionate home euthanasia. Beyond the basics, there are many common problems in veterinary medicine that can be diagnosed and treated at home, including, for example, itching and scratching, problems with the eyes, ears or skin, mild to moderate arthritis, and minor injuries, wounds, and lacerations.
Dr. Selmer attended Long Island University (graduating Cum Laude with a BA in Psychology) and earned his Doctorate of Veterinary Medicine in 1995 from Michigan State University. He owns and operates the Advanced Animal Care Center in Huntington since 1996. In his hospital, Dr. Selmer focuses on minimally invasive diagnostic and surgical techniques, laparoscopic surgeries, ultrasounds, orthopedic surgeries, and endoscopies. He is an accredited member of the New York State Veterinary Medical Society, as well as the American Animal Hospital Association, and currently is the Vice President of the Long Island Veterinary Medical Society. Dr. Selmer is recognized as one of America’s top veterinarians by Consumer’s Research Council of America for 2006, 2007 and 2008.

For more information, to schedule an interview with Dr. Selmer, to schedule an appearance of the Mobile Animal Care Unit, or to showcase the Mobile Animal Care Unit, please call (631) 367–7387 or e-mail at drselmer@optonline.net

Value of Nutritional Supplement

2009-03-14T10:40:00.000-07:00

Value of Nutritional SupplementIn response to recent high-profile incidents, there has been an increase in the level of awareness for the safety and nutritional content for the food that we and our animals consume. In addition, increasing clinical analysis has proven the effectiveness that nutrition plays in promoting good health and also as part of a formal, holistic health remedies. WellnessThe Nutritional Blood Test (NBT) is not only beneficial as adjunctive therapy for serious ailments but also for helping to prevent disease in apparently healthy animals. While the NBT has historically been utilized for patients with chronic disorders, Dr. Selmer has begun to utilize the NBT in preventive veterinary medicine for adult and senior patients. The NBT is based upon the principle that changes occur in the blood before symptoms appear. Since the NBT identifies nutrient requirements and early warning signs of impending disease, it is the perfect tool to incorporate into an animal’s annual physical examination. Nutraceutical TherapyAlternative veterinary therapy complements conventional treatment, but it focuses more on the health of the total body and less on signs and symptoms. It is not at odds with conventional practice, but is instead a tool to help support healing and maintain wellness. Because it is based on a Nutritional Blood Test or NBT, it provides proactive and early warning opportunities to detect and improve health through specific and tailored nutritional therapies. Improving the health and overall quality of life of the animal is achieved when a holistic evaluation and diagnosis is made that seeks to support the immune system and target specific maladies and minimize symptoms over the long-term. A proper and prudent balance of immune support and medical (or surgical) management is the most preferred and integrative form of medical practice and health management. While nutraceutical therapies are typically gentler than prescribed medications, they achieve long-term affects and health improvement. For example, while arthritis pain can be relieved more quickly by aspirin or prednisone, long-term resolution of pain and inflammation often is dependent upon enhanced nutrition and improved metabolism, which are only addressed through improved nutrition and nutraceutical treatment. Clinical Analysis has affirmed that optimum nutrition helps slow the onset and progression of chronic disease because it restores balance and promotes healing by supporting the metabolic pathways that energize the healing system. In addition, it helps reduce the inflammation that predisposes an animal to disease. Its use, either alone or in combination with appropriate medication, contributes to the day-to-day wellness of the animal.

A Natural Approach To Your Pet's Care

2009-01-20T12:14:00.000-08:00

Naturopathy
A Natural Approach To Your Pet’s Care

The Power to Alter Your Pet’s Genes' Behavior

You may not realize it, but you and your pet have spent your lives altering your genetic activity. When you took your first sip of wine or beer, you turned up the volume on your body's genetic ability to detoxify alcohol. Every summer, when you strive for that perfect tan, you activate the genes that protect your skin. Genes are not a fixed set of preprogrammed instructions. They are a dynamic, active part of your pet’s life, responding each day to the environment and their diet. ”Naturopathy” or “Nutrigenomics” addresses your pet’s individual needs and works with their body to help maintain good health. Each pet has different problems and considerations, which is why each pet needs its own specifically individualized dietary supplementation.

Dr. Michel Selmer, has been helping his patients discover a health, vitality, and joy in life that their owner’s never thought possible, simply by having them alter what they eat, which supplements they were given, and how they exercised. Yet he always assumed that the genetic part of our story had already been written. Like most of us, he believed the genes we inherited from our parents were the cards we were dealt. But recently, Dr. Selmer began to discover that we have an enormous power to improve our pet’s lives, even when it comes to their genes. True, we can't do anything about which chromosomes they got from their parents; we can't add new genes to the mix or eradicate old ones. But the genes they got at conception are only the beginning of the story. Dr. Selmer belives that we have the capacity to turn up the volume on some genes and silence others, vastly improving our capacity to provide our pet’s good health and happiness.

What is a Nutritional Blood Test?

The Nutritional Blood Test, or NBT, is a diagnostic tool used by Dr. Selmer who recognizes the importance of integrating nutrition with patient care. The NBT assesses the health of internal organs and the available vitamins, minerals and enzymes required for the metabolic processes. Using blood results and medical history, the NBT prioritizes the nutrients required to help optimize organ function and balance metabolism. It then matches the results to specific Nutraceuticals that support a clinical response. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to your other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process. Even if the patient is already using supplements, the NBT enhances the ability to dispense them effectively. The NBT is not meant to diagnose a particular disease, recommend medical therapy or replace current diagnostic protocols. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process even if you’re already using supplements for your animal.

How Does the NBT Work?

The levels of certain chemicals in the blood are the end result of the metabolic processes and the utilization or excretion of the metabolic wastes from the body. The NBT looks beyond chemical testing and quantitative assays to identify imbalances that are due to poor nutrient absorption, utilization or metabolism. One contributing factor to the reported steady rise in chronic degenerative diseases in animals is the inadequate levels of vitamins, minerals, enzymes and vital nutrients found in many highly processed, commercially prepared foods. Over time, the animal’s nutrient reserves can become depleted, paving the way to disease. The NBT is a valuable tool for correcting these deficiencies and guiding sick animals back to health. The Optimum Range Within the normal blood reference range, there are subtle gradations of tissue integrity and organ efficiency that can be measured. The NBT assessment relies on an Optimum Range, an additional set of parameters that are narrower than the traditional reference range and in which organs and metabolic processes are functioning at peak efficiency. Results outside of the optimum range do not necessarily indicate disease. They do, however, indicate that a particular organ system is not functioning at optimal efficiency, and may require nutritional support. Just as the interpretation outside the normal range forms the basis for the diagnosis of a specific disease, the optimum range interpretation forms the basis for determining optimal- not just “passable”- health. The NBT compares the blood results to the optimum range. When a value falls outside of the optimum range, the underlying physiology and metabolism, as well as the specific glands involved and nutrients used by the body for these processes, are assessed. The assessment is further evaluated in combination with the diagnosis and the clinical signs, resulting in a recommended NBT Nutraceutical Program that is specific to your animal.

The Results of the NBT

The NBT provides a unique veterinary-client lab report that prescribes the most effective combination of nutrients including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars, specifically blended to match the imbalances found in the animal's blood. These nutrients are precisely dosed according to the animal's weight and the severity of the imbalances or deficiencies The nutrient combination, referred to as the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy, is given orally in an easy-to-use powder along with symptom-oriented liquid remedies. In the powdered form, the designated number of “scoopfuls” is simply mixed with the animal's food. Liquids are given orally, separate from the food. All remedies are custom-prescribed and individually labeled. Advantages of Using Custom Blended Powder and Liquid Formulas Palatable

Easy to Administer
Dosed By Weight Of Animal
Food Grade Quality
Scientifically Linked to Blood Work
Free of Chemical Additives, Preservatives And Fillers
Maximum Assimilation And High Bio Availability

Arrange for your animal to visit Dr. Selmer and request a Nutritional Blood Test (NBT). The NBT includes your animal’s routine blood work (CBC, Super Chem (w/LDH), T-4) along with the 9945 NBT form or a blood test questionnaire. After receiving the NBT results (typically within 3 to 5 days) Dr. Selmer will consult with you to go over your animal’s NBT results, after which, you may order the custom-blended nutraceutical powder or symptom-oriented liquid remedies.If you would like to start a NBT, please call our Dr. Selmer at (631) 367-7387 or send an email to us at drselmer@optonline.net

Quality ManufacturingAnimal Nutrition Technologies manufactures a line of powders, fixed formulas and liquid supplements that are made from the absolute best ingredients and manufactured at the highest standards of quality and reliability.
ANT has capability to provide custom blended powder formula pulling from an array of over a hundred different nutraceutical ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars.

Happy Holidays

2008-12-18T12:30:00.000-08:00

We wish you and your entire family a healthy, happy and safe holiday season!
The holidays are busy, fun and sometimes a bit stressful. Keep in mind your animals are creatures of routine and familiar activities will keep them happy. The most special thing to them is time spent with you! Take them on an extra walk if that's what they enjoy or reward them with new pet toys and/ or "cuddle time". Instead of giving them "people" food, share the spirit by reaching for a special pet treat. If your house is full of guests make sure your pets have a quiet place to go to "get away from it all". Remember, the most common emergency over the holidays are stomach upsets due to overindulgence or foreign bodies. Say "no" to feeding your pets from the table and keep an eye out for inappropriate interest in tinsel, ribbons, lights, paper, ornaments and whatever might look like a "toy".
Thank you for trusting us with your furry family's health. We wish you and your loved ones a happy and healthy holiday season!
Sincerely,
The doctors and staff at Advanced Animal Care Center
Advanced Animal Care Center260 Evergreen Ave.Huntington Station, NY 11746631-367-7387http://www.advancedcareforpets.com/drselmer@optonline.net

Long Island's Mobile Animal Care Unit

2008-12-04T15:57:00.000-08:00

Contact : Michel Selmer, DVM
Telephone: (631) 367-7387
E-mail: drselmer@optonline.net

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE

LONG ISLAND’S MOBILE ANIMAL CARE UNIT

Michel A. Selmer, DVM, a Long Island native and resident, introduces the Mobile Animal Care Unit. In these days of cautious spending and in an environment of financial crisis he is fearful that the care of pets on Long Island will be affected. Dr. Selmer has decided to take his services on the road, and is intent on making routine and advanced animal care easily available and affordable.
Mobile animal care services provide convenience for those who have limited transportation (families with young children, seniors, those with disabilities) or time (we can treat pets while their owners are at work, doing household chores, or just cannot squeeze the time to visit the animal hospital). Pets that stress over traveling to a traditional veterinary hospital can now be treated in their homes or in the mobile animal care unit. Families with multiple pets also will benefit greatly. Weekends no longer have to be disrupted by trips to the veterinary hospital, as the hospital will come to you.
Mobile services include physical examinations, routine and preventive healthcare, vaccinations, diagnostic laboratory testing, health certificates, micro chipping, as well as gentle and compassionate home euthanasia. Beyond the basics, there are many common problems in veterinary medicine that can be diagnosed and treated at home, including, for example, itching and scratching, problems with the eyes, ears or skin, mild to moderate arthritis, and minor injuries, wounds, and lacerations.
Dr. Selmer attended Long Island University (graduating Cum Laude with a BA in Psychology) and earned his Doctorate of Veterinary Medicine in 1995 from Michigan State University. He owns and operates the Advanced Animal Care Center in Huntington since 1996. In his hospital, Dr. Selmer focuses on minimally invasive diagnostic and surgical techniques, laparoscopic surgeries, ultrasounds, orthopedic surgeries, and endoscopies. He is an accredited member of the New York State Veterinary Medical Society, as well as the American Animal Hospital Association, and currently is the Vice President of the Long Island Veterinary Medical Society. Dr. Selmer is recognized as one of America’s top veterinarians by Consumer’s Research Council of America for 2006 and 2007.

For more information, to schedule an interview with Dr. Selmer, to schedule an appearance of the Mobile Animal Care Unit, or to showcase the Mobile Animal Care Unit, please call (631) 367–7387 or e-mail at drselmer@optonline.net

Lumps and Bumps

2008-06-24T12:43:00.000-07:00

Advanced Animal Care Center
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com

Lumps and Bumps

It is quite common to find unusual lumps and bumps on any area of your pet’s body, particularly as they age. This paper will help you decide what is the most likely problem and what action to take. *Note: I will not be discussing any skin diseases such as fleas, mites or skin infections that do not cause an actual raised lump or mass.

TYPES OF SKIN MASSES

ABSCESSES
Abscesses are localized areas of inflammation that can occur anywhere in or on the body. Abscesses are most commonly created by bacteria but they can also be caused by fungi or noninfectious irritants and be sterile. Abscesses can form after punctures or tears, as with bites, or as a result of an infection in a specific tissue such as a tooth or anal gland. Multiple small abscesses can form internally when an infectious agent travels through the blood and then lodges in various tissues such as the liver, kidney or lungs. Fortunately, abscesses are uncommon in the United States and are most often associated with infected anal glands, infected teeth, or the prostate gland. Abscesses are rarely seen post surgically if standard sterile technique is used. Abscesses in the skin can appear quickly and may be firm and painful when touched. An abscess is surrounded by a reddened and inflamed area and feels warm to the touch. In my experience, most abscesses in your pets skin will readily. An abscess in the skin that does not involve any deep tissues will move with the skin. A swelling will appear on either side of the anus in the case of anal gland abscesses. The stools can become thin and ribbon-like due to pressure by the large abscess on the rectal wall. Dental abscesses are usually associated with either a canine tooth or an upper molar. Dental abscesses appear as hard lumps either on the lower jaw, usually near the chin, or on the upper jaw, often under or just in front of the eye. Abscesses should be treated as soon as possible. Besides being painful, there is a potential that an abscess can spread into deeper tissues allowing the bacteria to enter the blood stream. This could lead to a condition known as septicemia where the infectious organism is circulating throughout the body via the blood. Septicemia can lead to internal abscess formation or an overwhelming infection and death.

CYSTS
A cyst is a closed sac in or under the skin that is lined with epithelium, which are cells bound together by connective material, and contain fluid or semisolid material. Cysts are usually round, firm to the touch and moveable with the skin. Cysts, unlike abscesses, do not have red, inflamed skin surrounding them and are not usually painful. A cyst can occasionally form after a vaccination. This is an inflammatory response to chemicals that the vaccine contains and may appear up to one month after the vaccination and take six months or longer to disappear. Cysts are not dangerous, and are usually painless. However, they can increase in size and eventually become uncomfortable. It is best to have cysts removed while they are still small. SIALOCELE A sialocele is an accumulation of saliva under the skin of the lower jaw or neck. The saliva leaks out of a salivary duct damaged by either trauma or other disease, and forms a pocket under the skin. Sialoceles are painless and soft and fluctuant to the touch. They usually do not move with the skin. Sialoceles are not life threatening, but should be treated surgically because they rarely disappear on their own and can become quite large.

LYMPH NODES
Lymph nodes can be enlarged for a number of reasons, most notably lymphosarcoma, which is a type of cancer, and lymphoid hyperplasia, which is where lymph nodes are “overreacting” to some stimulus. Lymph nodes are found all over the body, but are most easily felt in the neck at the angle of the jaw, just in front of the shoulders, in the armpits, in the groin and along the back of the thighs. Enlarged lymph nodes do no move with the skin because they are connected to deeper tissues, but they can be felt just under the skin. Enlarged lymph nodes should be investigated as soon as possible so appropriate action can be taken. NEOPLASIA (CANCER) Pets can develop a wide variety of skin cancers including mastocytomas, histiocyotomas, sebaceous gland adenomas and adenocarcinomas, basal cell tumors, lymphoma, leiomyomas, lipomas, fibromas, fibrosarcomas and hemangiomas to name a few. The name of the tumor is based on the type of tissue that is cancerous. There are a few tumors that can be highly malignant and can spreading quickly, so we recommend all skin tumors be removed without delay and be identified by a pathologist. If the tumor involves only the skin, it will be moveable. Some tumors involve deeper tissue such as fibromas and fibrosarcomas or the tumors on the tail tip called chordomas, and will not be freely moveable. Most skin tumors are small, painless lumps, but some may become itchy, ulcerated, painful or quite large over time.

DIAGNOSIS
If your pet develops a skin lump you should seek veterinary attention as soon as possible. The first part of the diagnostic process is the physical examination. Some masses are readily identifiable during the examination and treatment may be prescribed without further diagnostics. If the diagnosis is unclear, your veterinarian may biopsy the mass with a needle. Biopsies are often done while the animal is awake because the procedure is quick and relatively painless. If a larger or deeper sample is needed it may be necessary to use a local or general anesthetic. The biopsy sample is examined under the microscope either in your veterinarian's office or is sent to a veterinary pathologist. Abscesses and sialoceles can often be diagnosed immediately based on the material extracted from the lump. A microscopic examination of the biopsy sample will be necessary to differentiate types or presence of cancer. Additionally, an x-ray may be recommended if an abscess is present, especially of the teeth, or if a malignant tumor is suspected. For all suspected malignant tumors, an x-ray of the chest should be performed to determine if the tumor has spread. A complete blood cell count and/or serum biochemistry might be performed in the case of abscesses, enlarged lymph nodes and tumors to detect abnormalities in other organs and the immune system. These blood tests may also be performed to determine if your pet is in good enough health to undergo surgery if it is the recommended treatment.

TREATMENT
The recommended treatment for most skin masses is complete surgical removal. In the case of abscesses, it may be advantageous to put the pet on oral antibiotics first and then surgically remove the abscess along with its thickened wall after some of the swelling has subsided. The source of the abscess should be removed such as an infected tooth or an infected anal gland. Cysts should be removed if they are persistent or become enlarged. Sialoceles are treated by draining the pocket of saliva and then keeping the area open until it heals. If multiple lymph nodes are enlarged, it is necessary to remove at least one to determine the cause and future treatment. In my opinion, all skin tumors should be removed as soon as possible because of the potential for malignancy. Since most pets are excellent surgical candidates with the proper anesthesia, I often do not biopsy a tumor presurgically, but rather remove it entirely and then have it examined by a pathologist postoperatively. It is important to have a pathologist make a diagnosis on a surgically removed mass to determine if future treatment is necessary. Although the prognosis for aggressive, malignant tumors is guarded to grave, some pets benefit from chemo or other therapy postsurgically. It is my opinion that one should never adopt a “wait and see attitude” in pets with skin tumors. It is much easier to prevent localized disease with early removal than deal with systemic problems because you waited too long. Skin masses are usually removed under a general anesthesia. Either conventional surgical techniques are employed or electrosurgery. Unless the lump was an abscess, or the surgical site was grossly contaminated, it should be unnecessary to use antibiotics postsurgically. Sutures or staples may be placed in the skin or absorbable sutures may be hidden under the skin. You should examine the surgical site at least twice a day for any drainage, swelling or loss of sutures. If the surgical site was large or very deep, the pet will benefit from the use of analgesics for a few days postoperatively. So…as you can see, this need not be a complex issue. If you find a lump, get it attended to now, not later. Be prepared that often the best course of action is surgical removal. Your pet will thank for your prompt action!

What is Laparoscopy

2008-06-20T07:52:00.000-07:00

Beware of conterfeit pest products for dogs and cats

2008-06-17T06:50:00.000-07:00

advancedcareforpets.com

Beware of counterfeit pest products for dogs and cats
Pet owners shopping for Frontline, Advantage and other flea control products for their pets should be on the lookout for counterfeit versions of those products appearing on retailers' shelves. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, these products are packaged in cartons designed to look like legitimate versions of Advantage and Frontline but are not approved by the EPA. These counterfeit products may be missing instruction leaflets required by U.S. law. The packages also may not feature required child-resistant packaging and the applicators may not be the appropriate size dosage for the animal indicated on the package. Using such products could put your pet at risk, as the counterfeit products may contain too much or too little dosage of the active ingredients of the pesticide or different ingredients all together, according to the EPA.
The products affected are:
Frontline Top Spot for Cats
Frontline Top Spot for Dogs
Frontline Plus for Cats
Frontline Plus for Dogs
Advantage 10 for Dogs
Advantage 20 for Dogs
Advantage 55 for Dogs
Advantage 100 for Dogs
Advantage 9 for Cats
Advantage 18 for Cats
The packages for the legitimate and counterfeit versions of each product look similar, so you must open the packages and examine the contents inside to determine legitimacy. Legitimate Frontline products will meet the following criteria:
The lot number on the carton and the lot number on the applicator package or individual applicators will match.
The instruction leaflet is included and provides safety information, U.S. telephone numbers and storage and disposal instructions.
The applicator package is child resistant, and directions for opening the applicator package include an illustration that looks like the applicator package.
The applicator package has a notch between each individual applicator package. Text on the package is in English only.
Each individual applicator has a label that includes the name of the manufacturer (Merial); the EPA registration number; the contents measured in fluid ounces (not metric measurement); a list of active ingredients, and the statements "Caution", "Keep out of reach of children" and "See full label for additional directions" in English.
The applicator label for dog products includes the size of the dog in pounds.
For Advantage products, the following criteria can be used to determine legitimacy:
All applicator tubes will feature directions printed in English. Any applicator with instructions in another language is counterfeit.
Applicator tubes will include the EPA registration number, word "WARNING" and a child-safety statement.
Also on the tube is a reference to referring to the main label of the product for directions, as well as the name of the manufacturer (Bayer).
Legitimate products will feature an active ingredient statement that matches the statement on the retail carton. Counterfeit products may feature different statements.
It is important to note that the EPA also considers versions of the drug sold in foreign countries but imported into the United States to be counterfeit as well. Products purchased in foreign countries may not have the same safety warnings or child-resistant packaging as products approved for sale in America, and the dosages and ingredients may be different. If you have purchased counterfeit products, the EPA recommends you dispose of the product according to local solid waste guidelines. You should also notify the staff of the retail outlet you purchased the product from as well as the EPA regional office in your state.