260 Evergreen Ave. Huntington Station, NY 11746
631-367-7387 or (631) FOR-PETS
www.advancedcareforpets.com
Dogs older than seven years of age are considered senior pets. Senior dogs are in the stage of life in which the aging process is affecting every organ. Some organs “wear out” faster than others, so certain observations are especially important to make. The following is a list of key recommendations that we feel are important for older dogs.
Keep vaccinations current. Your veterinarian will determine the proper vaccine schedule for your senior pet’s lifestyle. Most senior pets will receive most vaccines every two to three years. Some vaccines with shorter duration of immunity such as the “kennel cough” vaccine, may be given more frequently.
Brush your pet frequently to prevent matts. This can contribute to skin infections and may hide skin tumors.
Clip toe nails as needed to prevent overgrowth. Long toe nails may cause the dog to stand and walk abnormally and result in pain or accelerate and exacerbate arthritic changes.
Keep plenty of fresh water available and monitor its consumption. Increases in water consumption or urination are often associated with conditions such as diabetes, kidney and liver disease.
Keep other pets from preventing your senior pet access to food and water.
Keep your senior pet indoors most of the time, especially in inclement weather.
Weigh on the same scale and record results at least every two months. Changes in weight can be an early indicator of disease.
How often should I take my senior dog to the veterinarian?
You should take your senior dog to the veterinarian at least once a year for an annual check-up.
Have your veterinarian examine your dog if you notice for any of the following:
1. Sustained significant increase in water consumption. (Abnormal is intake greater than 100 ml/kg/day or approximately 1 ½ cups (1two ounces)/day for a 10 pound dog)
2. Sustained significant increase in urination.
3. Weight loss.
4. Significant decrease in appetite or failure to eat for more than two consecutive days.
5. Significant increase in appetite.
6. Repeated vomiting.
7. Diarrhea that lasts over three days.
8. Difficulty in passing stool or urine.
9. Sudden loss of housetraining.
10. Lameness that lasts more than three days, or lameness in more than one leg.
11. Noticeable decrease in vision, especially if sudden in onset or pupils that do not constrict in bright light.
12. Masses, ulcerations (open sores), or multiple scabs on the skin that persist more than one week.
13. Foul mouth odor or drooling that lasts over two days.
14. Increasing size of the abdomen.
15. Increasing inactivity or amount of time spent sleeping.
16. Hair loss, especially if accompanied by scratching or if in specific areas (as opposed to generalized).
17. Persistent coughing or gagging.
18. Excessive panting.
19. Sudden collapse or bout of weakness.
20. Inability to chew dry food.
21. A seizure (convulsion or “fit”).
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Arthritis
Arthritis is a complex condition involving inflammation of one or more joints. There are many causes of arthritis in pets. In most cases, the degree of arthritis is related to the age of the animal.
What causes arthritis?
Arthritis can be classified as primary arthritis such as rheumatoid arthritis and secondary arthritis which occurs as a result of joint instability that leads to damage of the subchondral bone that line the joints. Secondary arthritis is the most common form diagnosed in veterinary patients. The most common type of arthritis is osteoarthritis (OA) which is also known as degenerative joint disease (DJD). Some common causes of secondary arthritis include hip dysplasia, obesity, cranial cruciate ligament rupture, and so forth.
Other causes include joint infection, often as the result of bites or following joint trauma and damage.
Rheumatoid arthritis is an immune mediated, erosive, inflammatory condition. Cartilage and bone are eroded within affected joints and the condition can progress to complete joint fixation (ankylosis). It may affect single joints or multiple joints may be involved (polyarthritis). In certain dog breeds Rheumatoid Arthritis (RA) factors can be detected with blood tests. Other types of immune mediated arthritis can be non-erosive, such as arthritis that is associated with Systemic Lupus Erythematosis (SLE). SLE is often accompanied by other clinical signs in addition to the arthritis.
Infective or septic arthritis can be caused by a variety of microorganisms, such as bacteria, viruses and fungi. Septic arthritis normally only affects a single joint and the condition results in swelling, fever, heat and pain in the joint. With septic arthritis, your pet is likely to stop eating and become depressed.
How do we treat arthritis?
Treatment will depend on the cause of arthritis. Immune mediated and rheumatoid arthritis are usually treated with high doses of corticosteroids, often with dramatic improvement. The control of these conditions often involves the long-term use of corticosteroids and other drugs such as immunosuppressive or cytotoxic agents.
The treatment of septic arthritis involves determining the type of microorganism involved and its antibiotic sensitivity. Antibiotics are usually administered for a minimum of a month and analgesics (pain relief medications) are necessary to combat pain and inflammation.
Analgesics such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are the most common form of treatment for osteoarthritis. It is important to select these medications with care since some dogs are more sensitive than others to the potential side-effects of analgesics. The most common side-effects of analgesics include decreased appetite, vomiting and diarrhea. Pre-medication blood tests must be performed to make sure that the pet can safely metabolize and eliminate the medication and then periodic blood tests are necessary to ensure continued safe usage.
If you have any concerns or questions about the administration of any medication, please discuss theme with your veterinarian.
What causes arthritis?
Arthritis can be classified as primary arthritis such as rheumatoid arthritis and secondary arthritis which occurs as a result of joint instability that leads to damage of the subchondral bone that line the joints. Secondary arthritis is the most common form diagnosed in veterinary patients. The most common type of arthritis is osteoarthritis (OA) which is also known as degenerative joint disease (DJD). Some common causes of secondary arthritis include hip dysplasia, obesity, cranial cruciate ligament rupture, and so forth.
Other causes include joint infection, often as the result of bites or following joint trauma and damage.
Rheumatoid arthritis is an immune mediated, erosive, inflammatory condition. Cartilage and bone are eroded within affected joints and the condition can progress to complete joint fixation (ankylosis). It may affect single joints or multiple joints may be involved (polyarthritis). In certain dog breeds Rheumatoid Arthritis (RA) factors can be detected with blood tests. Other types of immune mediated arthritis can be non-erosive, such as arthritis that is associated with Systemic Lupus Erythematosis (SLE). SLE is often accompanied by other clinical signs in addition to the arthritis.
Infective or septic arthritis can be caused by a variety of microorganisms, such as bacteria, viruses and fungi. Septic arthritis normally only affects a single joint and the condition results in swelling, fever, heat and pain in the joint. With septic arthritis, your pet is likely to stop eating and become depressed.
How do we treat arthritis?
Treatment will depend on the cause of arthritis. Immune mediated and rheumatoid arthritis are usually treated with high doses of corticosteroids, often with dramatic improvement. The control of these conditions often involves the long-term use of corticosteroids and other drugs such as immunosuppressive or cytotoxic agents.
The treatment of septic arthritis involves determining the type of microorganism involved and its antibiotic sensitivity. Antibiotics are usually administered for a minimum of a month and analgesics (pain relief medications) are necessary to combat pain and inflammation.
Analgesics such as non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) are the most common form of treatment for osteoarthritis. It is important to select these medications with care since some dogs are more sensitive than others to the potential side-effects of analgesics. The most common side-effects of analgesics include decreased appetite, vomiting and diarrhea. Pre-medication blood tests must be performed to make sure that the pet can safely metabolize and eliminate the medication and then periodic blood tests are necessary to ensure continued safe usage.
If you have any concerns or questions about the administration of any medication, please discuss theme with your veterinarian.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Puppies and Where to Get One
Puppies and Where to Get One
A puppy is a baby dog. Like many other species of babies, baby dogs are built to appeal deeply to the emotions of adults. The normal human response to a baby is a deep desire to nurture the young one. This is good for the survival of babies. However, it’s not good for you in making the best decisions about adopting a new dog. This creature in a baby suit is a real live dog concealing 10 to 15 years of serious responsibility, including emotional highs and lows, more expense than most people would believe, changing your life, and hard work that tends to come without the opportunity to plan.
Thus the first thing to know about selecting a puppy is to stay away from puppies while you research! Don’t lay eyeballs on a puppy until all the questions have been answered and you are as sure as you can possibly be that you are ready to take on this responsibility.
Puppy adoptions are usually made without proper preparation. The type of research for the right refrigerator doesn’t work with puppies. And let’s remember, we are talking about DOGS, because there is a dog inside that puppy who will take over the body in just months!
Then will your housetraining and puppy-biting of humans be solved? Maybe some puppy problems will be solved, if you’ve done your homework, though it’s definitely no sure thing. But adolescence makes it obvious that puppyhood was, well, child’s play. Many dogs lose their homes in this phase when the body is nearly full-sized and the brain requires a knowledgeable human’s management and training.
After adolescence, the dog matures, and if there’s any aggression lurking in there, you may have a dog you absolutely cannot control. Female dogs are often fairly mature by age two years, males by age three. Small dogs may mature younger. Aggression is a problem with any size dog, but the large dogs are the ones who seriously hurt people, and on rare occasions kill.
Small dogs more frequently lose their homes over housetraining, which takes longer and may never reach the reliability it can in large dogs. Larger dogs lose homes over destructively chewing human possessions, knocking people down, and biting humans.
Adopting a puppy you are not equipped to raise, train, and manage for the dog’s entire lifespan is not fair to the puppy. Doing that keeps the dog from having a chance to be adopted by someone who would provide lifelong care. Every aspect of responsible dog ownership turns on the adoption of the dog in the first place.
So when you consider any particular puppy for yourself, ask “Am I the right person to take care of this dog for the next 10 to 15 years? Do I know the strengths, weaknesses, habits and needs of this kind of dog? Do I want a puppy for now, or do I want to become a person with a dog family member I will care for until death?”
You can see that questions like these are impossible to answer objectively when cuddling and cooing over a cute puppy. So stay away from puppies while you carefully consider getting one.
Skipping Puppyhood
One way to get the baby stars out of your eyes is to skip past puppyhood to the adult dog. You could go to the adolescent dog, if you’re a glutton for punishment. You need to be a pretty good trainer to happily handle an adolescent dog, or have good training help available quickly. It’s best to have both.
Adolescence involves jumping up on people, dragging you on the leash, the major destructive chewing stage, sexual maturity, and a temperament that may change when the dog finishes maturing and from day to day in the meantime. Proper training of a puppy is complicated and requires that you seriously know what you’re doing. Proper training of an adolescent is all that, plus the potential of being dangerous.
Don’t forget that the puppy you adopt will be an adolescent in a matter of months. Experts and those who diligently work with experts to raise their puppies can make adolescence go more smoothly by correct handling of the puppy before adolescent age is reached. But that’s not usually what happens when owners don’t make carefully considered decisions in puppy adoption.
Anybody who’s ever been in love with an incompatible person—due to differences in values or serious personality conflicts—knows that “love is not enough” to make a marriage work. Love is not enough to raise a puppy successfully, either.
To succeed in your home, the puppy has to have a sound temperament that falls within the parameters of your resources, early-life handling that has not done irreparable damage beyond your ability to cope, and correct handling from you. Being a different species, a puppy requires far different handling than what works to raise a human baby.
Thus, many people do better skipping the complicated puppy stage and the mercurial adolescent stage to go straight to having a grown dog. If your motive is to save a dog, here’s where it happens. The puppy you pass by will surely be adopted by someone else. The adult dog very well may not be.
The adult dog has a mature temperament that can be much more accurately assessed. Size, coat grooming, activity level and most other aspects of what you will need to be able to handle to live with that dog are apparent in the adult. In the puppy, these factors are carefully hidden, like the legendary warriors hiding in the gift of the magnificent Trojan horse statue. Through the miracle of growth, all the traits of an adult dog are cleverly compacted into that soft little puppy body. No wonder we’re fooled.
Everybody loves puppies, but do consider skipping puppyhood. A whole lot of good things happen when people are willing to adopt adult dogs. You and the dog will both be winners if you make this choice. It’s a much better and safer choice than a puppy when adopting a dog to live with young children, too.
Where are the Puppies?
Shelters place puppies in homes easily. Some have such demand for puppies that they transport them from other states and even from other countries in order to have puppies on hand for adoption. One concern with shelter puppies is the risk to the puppies’ health and temperaments from going through such a system at critical development stages. You get the same problems that happen with pet shop puppies.
Pet shop puppies have also been transported, and like shelter puppies they have been exposed to illness from other dogs. They have had unfortunate experiences that will damage them for life. Some of these puppies will succeed as companion dogs. The risk is high, though, of early death because they can’t survive what they have been through, along with health and temperament problems due to their genetics and exposures.
The most humane way to raise and place puppies is very personal. A good breeder makes extremely careful choices, knows what she is doing with all phases of the process, and breeds only the number of puppies she can properly handle.
A good breeder’s puppies are healthy and your risk of extreme veterinary expenses (beyond the puppy well-baby checks, vaccinations, and spay/neuter at the right time) is greatly reduced. Your risk of the puppy dying soon after adoption is much lower than with shelter and pet shop puppies, too.
The good breeder will want to know you well enough to determine that you’re able to give the puppy a good home. You should also want to know her well enough to determine that you can trust her. This means you and the breeder need to have a relationship. The puppy will have a lifelong safety net, since the good breeder will help one of her puppies at any age if the puppy needs a new home.
When you have questions after adopting your dog—and you should!—the good breeder will make herself available to answer them. The breeder knows a lot about her dogs, because she knows their mothers and fathers and aunts and uncles and grandparents and cousins.
You may be surprised how much it comes to mean to you that you can know the dogs who are related to your puppy. When the time comes that you lose your dog to death, you can go back to that family to adopt your next dog. The good breeder and her peers in the breed will be there to help you find the next dog. One of the mercies of losing a dog comes when it is possible to have another, if our life circumstances allow us to take up that responsibility all over again. Good breeders help make this possible.
Keep in mind that the good breeder who takes care of any puppy she has produced if the dog ever needs a new home, throughout life, is going to have adult dogs available for adoption from time to time, too. These are marvelous adoptions, with all the advantages of known genetics and history as well as missing the chaos of puppyhood.
Don’t think of adding a puppy to your life as a “purchase.” You don’t buy “puppy flesh,” if you make a responsible decision. Instead, you adopt a companion animal. Wherever you get your puppy or dog, any money that changes hands is a separate matter from what really happens when you get a dog.
A puppy is not a good gift. Imagine giving someone a human baby without knowing if they want one. Giving them a puppy or dog isn’t much different, except in degree. It’s a huge responsibility that each person must choose to take or not take.
Good breeders do not knowingly sell dogs to be placed in their real homes by other people. It is important to preserve the link between the breeder and the dog so that whoever is caring for the dog can get the breeder’s help when needed.
What Research Works?
Mixed breed puppies can grow into wonderful dogs. The healthiest mixes are those who are a cross between two purebred dogs. This is a hybrid and may have some genetic benefits. It will likely have the most extreme temperament traits of both breeds, though, so you need to research both breeds diligently and make sure you can handle all the possibilities. Most people are better off with a puppy from an established breed. The best breeders are found there, too.
A mixed breed puppy is not a good choice for a first-time dog owner or for any situation where the dog’s temperament is extremely important. The major situation in which people make this mistake is adopting a mixed breed puppy to live with children, especially young children. You need the best possible temperament for that situation, not an unknown. If the children are younger than school age, it’s better to adopt an adult dog, or wait until they are older.
A baby dog growing up with baby humans quite often doesn’t keep that home because of what happens to the puppy at critical development stages. Little kids cause pain and fear to puppies, and the puppies don’t react strongly enough for the parents to realize what terrible damage is happening. As the puppies mature into their adult instincts, they start protecting themselves because the parents didn’t know enough to protect them.
This is a critical problem with any puppy, but when you don’t know what size the dog will grow to, how much guarding instinct, how reactive, and many other traits, the mix becomes a bigger risk. And of course there probably won’t be a good breeder to help you, because the best breeders do not breed mixes. If you want a mixed-breed dog, skipping puppyhood with your adoption will greatly improve both your chances and the dog’s chances of a successful life.
Before deciding on any breed (or mix of breeds), spend significant time in personal, direct contact with dogs of that breed and people knowledgeable about them. Stay away from puppies! Puppies are not supposed to be at dog shows, so dog shows can be one place to research.
Going to one dog show is not doing enough homework to choose a breed. It’s just one step. Buy a catalog to help you identify breeders you may wish to approach when they are not busy, to arrange a convenient time for a more educational meeting.
Read about the breed, too, of course. Read more than one book, talk to as many people as you can who know the breed, and be sure to talk to rescue as well as breed club education officers. You can find the contact information for many of these people on the Internet, but Web surfing is not adequate research. You need to know so much more than you can find out that way.
People like to talk about their dogs and to have other people admire them, so if you work at it, you can find the information you need from living and breathing people and dogs in person. When you have done this, it can be a reasonable option to get your dog from another geographical area. You should go there in person before committing to a dog, though.
The Bold Pup, the Shy Pup, the “Runt:” How to Choose
So now you’ve come down to a breed and a breeder, and a litter of puppies is available. How do you choose which to adopt? The best case is not to make that choice yourself.
A good breeder knows her breed, the parents of these puppies and their relatives, and has studied these puppies as they’ve developed. She has also done her homework about YOU, and has a good idea what you can handle and what you need.
You trust this breeder, right? Otherwise, what are you doing here? Leave! You need the right dog, and that dog is waiting for you somewhere. Don’t take the most available dog, the cheapest dog, the easiest dog to get quickly. Don’t let yourself down, and don’t let the right dog down, either.
So, here you are with that breeder you trust. How to pick? Simple, she’ll pick your puppy. Of course you will have decided some things to guide her, such as whether you especially want or need one sex rather than the other and what training you plan to do with the pup. A pup destined to be a child’s playmate needs different traits than one who will be training for police work or high-powered dog sports.
A pup you want to show, earn titles with, and breed needs many different attributes than a pup you will spay/neuter. Some wonderful dogs are unlikely to reproduce themselves well, or they have traits that will not interfere with your lifestyle but should not be bred on to become major aspects in the breed’s gene pool.
Breeding dogs properly is a highly demanding calling and seldom profitable. Some people love it, while others would totally hate it. Living with intact male and female dogs of some breeds is a daunting task for many people. Giving up the pups is wrenching. Having mother dogs and puppies die in the birth process brings breeders terrible grief. Breeders who do the job well are heroes. Many of us would rather find other ways to serve humankind, while enjoying our dogs in a less complex lifestyle than breeding demands. Since the decision of whether or not to breed your dog often needs to be made at least tentatively when adopting a puppy, this is more research for you to do!
Deadlines Don’t Work
Getting a puppy for Christmas or Hanukkah is usually a terrible idea. You need the right puppy. The holidays are often the wrong time to find that puppy and also the wrong time to take on the extra work and lack of sleep that goes with adopting a new puppy. In the months following the holidays, a lot of people who didn’t do their research properly are giving up those puppies. This may well be the best time of year to adopt.
Researching breeds is fun if you take your time. Doing it in a fever trying to get a dog on some schedule not only takes the fun out of it, but causes you to cut some critical corners. It takes time to meet people, talk to them, get to know them, and find the right opportunities to interact with and learn about the dogs.
Remember that you’re forming relationships. You’re getting to know the other dog owners who will share a family tie of dogs with you. You’re finding out how these dogs smell, how they need their coats tended, what ear care they need, and how much money to set aside in a savings account for your dog’s veterinary expenses. Does this breed have a high incidence of hip dysplasia? What behaviors do you need to train? What activities is the breed well suited for, and which of those activities do you enjoy?
The research takes you into the life you’ll be living with a dog of this breed (or breeds, in the case of a mix). It’s not preliminary time, but rather it’s the beginning of that life. It has its own rewards. Don’t skip past it or rush it.
When selecting a dog, always remember the old saying “Marry in haste; repent at leisure.” Rushing ahead on emotion without doing the real-life research might accidentally find you the right dog. Your chances are reduced, though, and you miss too much of the good stuff!
A puppy is a baby dog. Like many other species of babies, baby dogs are built to appeal deeply to the emotions of adults. The normal human response to a baby is a deep desire to nurture the young one. This is good for the survival of babies. However, it’s not good for you in making the best decisions about adopting a new dog. This creature in a baby suit is a real live dog concealing 10 to 15 years of serious responsibility, including emotional highs and lows, more expense than most people would believe, changing your life, and hard work that tends to come without the opportunity to plan.
Thus the first thing to know about selecting a puppy is to stay away from puppies while you research! Don’t lay eyeballs on a puppy until all the questions have been answered and you are as sure as you can possibly be that you are ready to take on this responsibility.
Puppy adoptions are usually made without proper preparation. The type of research for the right refrigerator doesn’t work with puppies. And let’s remember, we are talking about DOGS, because there is a dog inside that puppy who will take over the body in just months!
Then will your housetraining and puppy-biting of humans be solved? Maybe some puppy problems will be solved, if you’ve done your homework, though it’s definitely no sure thing. But adolescence makes it obvious that puppyhood was, well, child’s play. Many dogs lose their homes in this phase when the body is nearly full-sized and the brain requires a knowledgeable human’s management and training.
After adolescence, the dog matures, and if there’s any aggression lurking in there, you may have a dog you absolutely cannot control. Female dogs are often fairly mature by age two years, males by age three. Small dogs may mature younger. Aggression is a problem with any size dog, but the large dogs are the ones who seriously hurt people, and on rare occasions kill.
Small dogs more frequently lose their homes over housetraining, which takes longer and may never reach the reliability it can in large dogs. Larger dogs lose homes over destructively chewing human possessions, knocking people down, and biting humans.
Adopting a puppy you are not equipped to raise, train, and manage for the dog’s entire lifespan is not fair to the puppy. Doing that keeps the dog from having a chance to be adopted by someone who would provide lifelong care. Every aspect of responsible dog ownership turns on the adoption of the dog in the first place.
So when you consider any particular puppy for yourself, ask “Am I the right person to take care of this dog for the next 10 to 15 years? Do I know the strengths, weaknesses, habits and needs of this kind of dog? Do I want a puppy for now, or do I want to become a person with a dog family member I will care for until death?”
You can see that questions like these are impossible to answer objectively when cuddling and cooing over a cute puppy. So stay away from puppies while you carefully consider getting one.
Skipping Puppyhood
One way to get the baby stars out of your eyes is to skip past puppyhood to the adult dog. You could go to the adolescent dog, if you’re a glutton for punishment. You need to be a pretty good trainer to happily handle an adolescent dog, or have good training help available quickly. It’s best to have both.
Adolescence involves jumping up on people, dragging you on the leash, the major destructive chewing stage, sexual maturity, and a temperament that may change when the dog finishes maturing and from day to day in the meantime. Proper training of a puppy is complicated and requires that you seriously know what you’re doing. Proper training of an adolescent is all that, plus the potential of being dangerous.
Don’t forget that the puppy you adopt will be an adolescent in a matter of months. Experts and those who diligently work with experts to raise their puppies can make adolescence go more smoothly by correct handling of the puppy before adolescent age is reached. But that’s not usually what happens when owners don’t make carefully considered decisions in puppy adoption.
Anybody who’s ever been in love with an incompatible person—due to differences in values or serious personality conflicts—knows that “love is not enough” to make a marriage work. Love is not enough to raise a puppy successfully, either.
To succeed in your home, the puppy has to have a sound temperament that falls within the parameters of your resources, early-life handling that has not done irreparable damage beyond your ability to cope, and correct handling from you. Being a different species, a puppy requires far different handling than what works to raise a human baby.
Thus, many people do better skipping the complicated puppy stage and the mercurial adolescent stage to go straight to having a grown dog. If your motive is to save a dog, here’s where it happens. The puppy you pass by will surely be adopted by someone else. The adult dog very well may not be.
The adult dog has a mature temperament that can be much more accurately assessed. Size, coat grooming, activity level and most other aspects of what you will need to be able to handle to live with that dog are apparent in the adult. In the puppy, these factors are carefully hidden, like the legendary warriors hiding in the gift of the magnificent Trojan horse statue. Through the miracle of growth, all the traits of an adult dog are cleverly compacted into that soft little puppy body. No wonder we’re fooled.
Everybody loves puppies, but do consider skipping puppyhood. A whole lot of good things happen when people are willing to adopt adult dogs. You and the dog will both be winners if you make this choice. It’s a much better and safer choice than a puppy when adopting a dog to live with young children, too.
Where are the Puppies?
Shelters place puppies in homes easily. Some have such demand for puppies that they transport them from other states and even from other countries in order to have puppies on hand for adoption. One concern with shelter puppies is the risk to the puppies’ health and temperaments from going through such a system at critical development stages. You get the same problems that happen with pet shop puppies.
Pet shop puppies have also been transported, and like shelter puppies they have been exposed to illness from other dogs. They have had unfortunate experiences that will damage them for life. Some of these puppies will succeed as companion dogs. The risk is high, though, of early death because they can’t survive what they have been through, along with health and temperament problems due to their genetics and exposures.
The most humane way to raise and place puppies is very personal. A good breeder makes extremely careful choices, knows what she is doing with all phases of the process, and breeds only the number of puppies she can properly handle.
A good breeder’s puppies are healthy and your risk of extreme veterinary expenses (beyond the puppy well-baby checks, vaccinations, and spay/neuter at the right time) is greatly reduced. Your risk of the puppy dying soon after adoption is much lower than with shelter and pet shop puppies, too.
The good breeder will want to know you well enough to determine that you’re able to give the puppy a good home. You should also want to know her well enough to determine that you can trust her. This means you and the breeder need to have a relationship. The puppy will have a lifelong safety net, since the good breeder will help one of her puppies at any age if the puppy needs a new home.
When you have questions after adopting your dog—and you should!—the good breeder will make herself available to answer them. The breeder knows a lot about her dogs, because she knows their mothers and fathers and aunts and uncles and grandparents and cousins.
You may be surprised how much it comes to mean to you that you can know the dogs who are related to your puppy. When the time comes that you lose your dog to death, you can go back to that family to adopt your next dog. The good breeder and her peers in the breed will be there to help you find the next dog. One of the mercies of losing a dog comes when it is possible to have another, if our life circumstances allow us to take up that responsibility all over again. Good breeders help make this possible.
Keep in mind that the good breeder who takes care of any puppy she has produced if the dog ever needs a new home, throughout life, is going to have adult dogs available for adoption from time to time, too. These are marvelous adoptions, with all the advantages of known genetics and history as well as missing the chaos of puppyhood.
Don’t think of adding a puppy to your life as a “purchase.” You don’t buy “puppy flesh,” if you make a responsible decision. Instead, you adopt a companion animal. Wherever you get your puppy or dog, any money that changes hands is a separate matter from what really happens when you get a dog.
A puppy is not a good gift. Imagine giving someone a human baby without knowing if they want one. Giving them a puppy or dog isn’t much different, except in degree. It’s a huge responsibility that each person must choose to take or not take.
Good breeders do not knowingly sell dogs to be placed in their real homes by other people. It is important to preserve the link between the breeder and the dog so that whoever is caring for the dog can get the breeder’s help when needed.
What Research Works?
Mixed breed puppies can grow into wonderful dogs. The healthiest mixes are those who are a cross between two purebred dogs. This is a hybrid and may have some genetic benefits. It will likely have the most extreme temperament traits of both breeds, though, so you need to research both breeds diligently and make sure you can handle all the possibilities. Most people are better off with a puppy from an established breed. The best breeders are found there, too.
A mixed breed puppy is not a good choice for a first-time dog owner or for any situation where the dog’s temperament is extremely important. The major situation in which people make this mistake is adopting a mixed breed puppy to live with children, especially young children. You need the best possible temperament for that situation, not an unknown. If the children are younger than school age, it’s better to adopt an adult dog, or wait until they are older.
A baby dog growing up with baby humans quite often doesn’t keep that home because of what happens to the puppy at critical development stages. Little kids cause pain and fear to puppies, and the puppies don’t react strongly enough for the parents to realize what terrible damage is happening. As the puppies mature into their adult instincts, they start protecting themselves because the parents didn’t know enough to protect them.
This is a critical problem with any puppy, but when you don’t know what size the dog will grow to, how much guarding instinct, how reactive, and many other traits, the mix becomes a bigger risk. And of course there probably won’t be a good breeder to help you, because the best breeders do not breed mixes. If you want a mixed-breed dog, skipping puppyhood with your adoption will greatly improve both your chances and the dog’s chances of a successful life.
Before deciding on any breed (or mix of breeds), spend significant time in personal, direct contact with dogs of that breed and people knowledgeable about them. Stay away from puppies! Puppies are not supposed to be at dog shows, so dog shows can be one place to research.
Going to one dog show is not doing enough homework to choose a breed. It’s just one step. Buy a catalog to help you identify breeders you may wish to approach when they are not busy, to arrange a convenient time for a more educational meeting.
Read about the breed, too, of course. Read more than one book, talk to as many people as you can who know the breed, and be sure to talk to rescue as well as breed club education officers. You can find the contact information for many of these people on the Internet, but Web surfing is not adequate research. You need to know so much more than you can find out that way.
People like to talk about their dogs and to have other people admire them, so if you work at it, you can find the information you need from living and breathing people and dogs in person. When you have done this, it can be a reasonable option to get your dog from another geographical area. You should go there in person before committing to a dog, though.
The Bold Pup, the Shy Pup, the “Runt:” How to Choose
So now you’ve come down to a breed and a breeder, and a litter of puppies is available. How do you choose which to adopt? The best case is not to make that choice yourself.
A good breeder knows her breed, the parents of these puppies and their relatives, and has studied these puppies as they’ve developed. She has also done her homework about YOU, and has a good idea what you can handle and what you need.
You trust this breeder, right? Otherwise, what are you doing here? Leave! You need the right dog, and that dog is waiting for you somewhere. Don’t take the most available dog, the cheapest dog, the easiest dog to get quickly. Don’t let yourself down, and don’t let the right dog down, either.
So, here you are with that breeder you trust. How to pick? Simple, she’ll pick your puppy. Of course you will have decided some things to guide her, such as whether you especially want or need one sex rather than the other and what training you plan to do with the pup. A pup destined to be a child’s playmate needs different traits than one who will be training for police work or high-powered dog sports.
A pup you want to show, earn titles with, and breed needs many different attributes than a pup you will spay/neuter. Some wonderful dogs are unlikely to reproduce themselves well, or they have traits that will not interfere with your lifestyle but should not be bred on to become major aspects in the breed’s gene pool.
Breeding dogs properly is a highly demanding calling and seldom profitable. Some people love it, while others would totally hate it. Living with intact male and female dogs of some breeds is a daunting task for many people. Giving up the pups is wrenching. Having mother dogs and puppies die in the birth process brings breeders terrible grief. Breeders who do the job well are heroes. Many of us would rather find other ways to serve humankind, while enjoying our dogs in a less complex lifestyle than breeding demands. Since the decision of whether or not to breed your dog often needs to be made at least tentatively when adopting a puppy, this is more research for you to do!
Deadlines Don’t Work
Getting a puppy for Christmas or Hanukkah is usually a terrible idea. You need the right puppy. The holidays are often the wrong time to find that puppy and also the wrong time to take on the extra work and lack of sleep that goes with adopting a new puppy. In the months following the holidays, a lot of people who didn’t do their research properly are giving up those puppies. This may well be the best time of year to adopt.
Researching breeds is fun if you take your time. Doing it in a fever trying to get a dog on some schedule not only takes the fun out of it, but causes you to cut some critical corners. It takes time to meet people, talk to them, get to know them, and find the right opportunities to interact with and learn about the dogs.
Remember that you’re forming relationships. You’re getting to know the other dog owners who will share a family tie of dogs with you. You’re finding out how these dogs smell, how they need their coats tended, what ear care they need, and how much money to set aside in a savings account for your dog’s veterinary expenses. Does this breed have a high incidence of hip dysplasia? What behaviors do you need to train? What activities is the breed well suited for, and which of those activities do you enjoy?
The research takes you into the life you’ll be living with a dog of this breed (or breeds, in the case of a mix). It’s not preliminary time, but rather it’s the beginning of that life. It has its own rewards. Don’t skip past it or rush it.
When selecting a dog, always remember the old saying “Marry in haste; repent at leisure.” Rushing ahead on emotion without doing the real-life research might accidentally find you the right dog. Your chances are reduced, though, and you miss too much of the good stuff!
Your dog.......
"He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion."
Monday, April 27, 2009
Anyone who has pets will really like this...
You'll like it even if you don't and you may even decide you need one!Mary and her husband Jim had a dog named 'Lucky.' Lucky was a real character. Whenever Mary and Jim had company come fora weekend visit they would warn their friends to not leave theirluggage open because Lucky would help himself to whatever struck hisfancy. Inevitably, someone would forget and something would come upmissing. Mary or Jim would goto Lucky's toy box in the basement and there the treasure would be,amid all of Lucky's other favorite toys Lucky always stashed his findsin his toy box and he was very particular that his toys stay in thebox..It happened that Mary found out she had breast cancer. Something told her she was going to die of this disease....in fact; she was just sure it was fatal.She scheduled the double mastectomy,fear riding her shoulders. The night before she was to go to thehospital she cuddled with Lucky. A thought struck her...what wouldhappen to Lucky? Although the three-year-old dog liked Jim, he wasMary's dog through and through. If I die, Lucky will be abandoned, Marythought. He won't understand that I didn't want to leave him! Thethought made her sadder than thinking of her own death.The double mastectomy was harder on Mary than her doctors hadanticipated and Mary was hospitalized for over two weeks. Jim tookLucky for his evening walk faithfully, but the little dog just drooped,whining and miserable.Finally the day came for Mary to leave the hospital. When she arrivedhome, Mary was so exhausted she couldn't even make it up the steps toher bedroom. Jim made his wife comfortable on the couch and left her tonap. Lucky stood watching Mary but he didn't come to her when she called. Itmade Mary sad but sleep soon overcame her and she dozed. When Mary woke for asecond she couldn't understand what was wrong. She couldn't move herhead and her body felt heavy and hot. But panic soon gave way tolaughter when Mary realized the problem. She was covered, literallyblanketed, with every treasure Lucky owned! While she had slept, thesorrowing dog had made trip after trip to the basement bringing hisbeloved mistress all his favorite things in life.He had covered her with his love.Mary forgot about dying. Instead she and Lucky began living again,walking further and further together every day. It's been 12 years nowand Mary is still cancer-free. Lucky He still steals treasures andstashes them in his toy box but Mary remains his greatest treasure.Remember...live everyday to the fullest. Each minute is a blessing from God. And neverforget....the people who make a difference in our lives are not theones with the most Credentials, the most money, or the most awards.They are the ones that care for us.If you see someone without a smile today give them one of yours! Livesimply. Love seriously. Care deeply. Speak kindly.
Saturday, April 25, 2009
A Pet's Ten Commandments...
A PET'S TEN COMMANDMENTS...
1. My life is likely to last 10-15 years. Any separation from you is likely to be painful.
2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.
3. Place your trust in me. It is crucial for my well-being.
4. Don't be angry with me for long and don't lock me up as punishment. You have your work, your friends, yourentertainment, but I have only you.
5. Talk to me. Even if I don't understand your words, I do understand your voice when speaking to me.
6. Be aware that however you treat me, I will never forget it.
7. Before you hit me, before you strike me, remember that I could hurt you, and yet, I choose not to bite you.
8. Before you scold me for being lazy or uncooperative, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I'm not getting the right food, I have been in the sun too long, or my heart might be getting old or weak.
9. Please take care of me when I grow old. You too, will grow old.
10. On the ultimate difficult journey, go with me please. Never say you can't bear to watch. Don't make me face this alone. Everything is easier for me if you are there, because I love you so.
ALWAYS! ~Take a moment today to thank God for your pets.
Enjoy and take good care of them. Life would bea much duller and less joyful experience without them~
1. My life is likely to last 10-15 years. Any separation from you is likely to be painful.
2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.
3. Place your trust in me. It is crucial for my well-being.
4. Don't be angry with me for long and don't lock me up as punishment. You have your work, your friends, yourentertainment, but I have only you.
5. Talk to me. Even if I don't understand your words, I do understand your voice when speaking to me.
6. Be aware that however you treat me, I will never forget it.
7. Before you hit me, before you strike me, remember that I could hurt you, and yet, I choose not to bite you.
8. Before you scold me for being lazy or uncooperative, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I'm not getting the right food, I have been in the sun too long, or my heart might be getting old or weak.
9. Please take care of me when I grow old. You too, will grow old.
10. On the ultimate difficult journey, go with me please. Never say you can't bear to watch. Don't make me face this alone. Everything is easier for me if you are there, because I love you so.
ALWAYS! ~Take a moment today to thank God for your pets.
Enjoy and take good care of them. Life would bea much duller and less joyful experience without them~
Some foods to avoid which may be dangerous to dogs.
Some foods to avoid which may be dangerous to dogs:
Chocolate which can cause seizures in dogs.
Coffee and tea can cause similar problems as chocolate.
Raisins and grapes can cause kidney failure.
Nutmeg can also cause seizures.
Raw eggs could contain salmonella, so they’re not worth the risk.
Onions are not advised as they can interfere with blood circulation.
Macadamia nuts can cause dogs to have tremors and lead to paralysis.Other food cautions include moldy foods, yeast dough and fruit pits. Many fruit pits contain cyanide.
Chocolate which can cause seizures in dogs.
Coffee and tea can cause similar problems as chocolate.
Raisins and grapes can cause kidney failure.
Nutmeg can also cause seizures.
Raw eggs could contain salmonella, so they’re not worth the risk.
Onions are not advised as they can interfere with blood circulation.
Macadamia nuts can cause dogs to have tremors and lead to paralysis.Other food cautions include moldy foods, yeast dough and fruit pits. Many fruit pits contain cyanide.
Separation Anxiety
Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
SEPARATION ANXIETY ?
How do I know if my pet’s problem is due to separation anxiety?
Separation anxiety describes dogs that usually are overly attached or dependent on family members. They become extremely anxious and show distress behaviors of vocalization, destruction, house-soiling or inactivity when separated from the owners. Most dogs with separation anxiety try to remain close to their owners and become increasingly anxious the greater the separation. They may follow the owners from room to room and begin to display signs of anxiety as soon as the owners prepare to leave. Some of these dogs crave a great deal of physical contact and attention from their owners and can be demanding. During departures or separations they may begin to salivate or pant profusely, vocalize, eliminate, and refuse to eat, become destructive or become quiet and withdrawn. Most often these behaviors occur within about 20 minutes of the owner’s departure. While typically the behavior occurs each and every time the owner leaves, it can only happen on selected departures, such as work-day departures, or when the owner leaves again after coming home from work. Dogs with separation anxiety are also often quite excited and aroused when the owner returns jumping, whining, running around for 5-15 minutes when you first come home.
Are there other reasons that my dog may engage in these behaviors?
Many dogs, especially puppies enjoy chewing and engage in the behavior when they have nothing better to keep them occupied. House-soiling may be due to medical problems, leaving the dog alone for longer than it can control its bladder, or inadequate house-training. Vocalization may be due to territorial intrusion by strangers or other animals, and can be a rewarded behavior if the dog receives any form of attention when it vocalizes or rewarded by the stimulus leaving. Some dogs will attempt to escape or become extremely anxious when confined, so that destructiveness or house-soiling when a dog is locked up in a crate, basement, or laundry room, may be due to confinement or barrier anxiety and associated attempts at escape. In addition, noise phobias such as a thunderstorm that passes through during the owner’s absence, may lead to marked destructiveness, house-soiling, salivation and vocalization. Old dogs with medical problems such as loss of hearing or sight, painful conditions and cognitive dysfunction may become more anxious in general, and seek out the owner’s attention for security and relief. While giving attention to help calm your dog may seem to be the best alternative, this may greatly increase your dogs need to be with you and around you at all times.
Where do I start?
Before you can begin to consider departure training, you must focus on developing a routine and training your pet to settle down and relax before it can earn attention. In other words you use the very rewards that your dog is seeking to teach independent behavior and relaxed times away from you. Until you can get your pet to settle and relax without attention when you are at home, your pet is unlikely to settle when you leave.
1. Establish a predictable routine
Since your dog is anxious you need to begin by making his day calmer and more predictable whether you are home or away. Establish a daily routine so that your pet can begin to predict when exercise, attention, feeding, training, play and elimination can be expected and when it is time to settle and nap or play with favored toys. Try to schedule times for object play and naps at times when you would normally depart.
2. Environmental enrichment – meeting your dog’s needs
While maintaining a regular routine, the pet’s day should be sufficiently enriched to meet or exceed its needs for social play, exercise, training and affection. In effect, you should initiate enough regular interactive sessions and provide enough play toys so that in between your pet is ready to settle down and relax. New exploratory and chew toys should be added in between social play times, so that the pet can focus on its own toys when it is time to settle. Feeding toys can also replace standard food bowls to make feeding time more of a mental and physical effort.
3. Establish a predictable protocol for rewards
If your pet has separation anxiety, it’s likely that your pet’s favored rewards are the attention and play that you provide. Treats, food, play and chew toys may also be highly desirable to the pet. Take each of the pet’s most valuable rewards and ask yourself: “what behavior does my pet need to learn” and “what behavior should I never reinforce”. With separation anxiety the answer should be clear; you must reinforce the pet for settling down, relaxing and showing some independence, while attention seeking and following behaviors should never be reinforced. Therefore, training should focus on extended and relaxed down stays and going to a bed or mat on command (see our settle exercises handout). If your dog seeks attention, your options are to ignore entirely until your dog settles, or to have your dog do a down-stay or go to its mat. After sufficient time in the down-stay or on the mat, give some attention or affection as a reward. Gradually shape longer periods of inattention before attention is given. The goal is not to ignore the dog, but rather to ignore attention-seeking behaviors. You want the dog to learn that calm and quiet behavior is desired and the best way to receive attention.
4. Train settle (see settle exercise handout)
The goal of training is that your dog learns to settle comfortably on cue. Focus on having your pet in a settled down, or lying on its bed or mat (or crate) before you give any reward. Not only should attention-seeking behavior be ignored, but all casual interactions should be avoided for the first few weeks, so that it is clear to both you and your dog that a settled response predictably achieves rewards and attention seeking does not. Practice training down stays and mat exercises (see our settle handout) using food lures, clicker training or head halter training, whichever you find most effective. Gradually shape longer stays and longer times on the bed or mat before attention, affection, treats or play is earned.
5. Develop an area and mat for relaxation
Having a bed or mat location (in a room, pen, or crate) where your dog can be taught to rest, nap, play and even sleep, can provide a secure area for your pet when you are not home. You can begin by training your pet to go to the area and gradually shape longer stays and more relaxed responses in the area before rewards are given. It might be helpful to have a barricade, tie down or crate that could be closed to ensure that your dog remains in the area for long enough at each session before being released. On the other hand, know your limits for success; your dog must be calm and settled when released so as to avoid reinforcing crying or barking behavior. At first your dog can be taken to this area as part of training routine using a toy or treat as a lure or a leash and head halter. However, in time a daily routine should be established where the dog learns to lie on its mat after each exercise, play and training session to either nap or play with its own toys. This is similar to the routine for crate training where the mat or bed becomes the dog’s bed or playpen. Other than play, exercise and training sessions, focus on giving your dog some or all of its rewards (treats, toys, chews, affection, feeding toys) only in this area. Audible cues such as a radio, CD or TV, odors such as aromatherapy candles or a piece of clothing with the owner’s scent, and a comfortable bed, can help to promote a relaxed response since they are associated with relaxation and owner presence (non-departure).
6. For some dogs it also is useful to work on responses to simple commands and having them earn all things. This can be as simple as having the dog respond to a command such as “sit” prior to receiving anything it wants. For example if the dog asks to go outside prior to opening the door the dog is given the command to “sit” and once it complies the door is opened. This technique can be used for anything the dog desires. See our handout on learn to earn for other examples.
When I need to leave, what can I do immediately to prevent damage?
This is an extremely difficult question. The goal of treatment is to reduce your pet’s level of anxiety by training it to feel comfortable in your absence. This can be a long intensive process. Yet, most owners will need to deal with the damage or vocalization immediately. During initial retraining its usually best to hire a dog sitter, take the dog to work, find a friend to care for the dog for the day, board the dog for the day, or arrange to take some time off from work to retrain the dog. Crate training or dog proofing techniques may work especially well for those dogs that already have an area where they are used to being confined. Crates should be used with caution however, with dogs that have separation anxiety and/or barrier frustrations, because they can promote intense escape attempts and may result in fairly serious injuries. It is important to choose a room or area that does not further increase the dog’s anxiety. The dog’s bedroom or feeding area may therefore be most practical. Booby-traps might also be used to keep the dog away from potential problem areas (See our handouts on ‘Behavior management products’ and ‘Canine punishment’).
For vocalization, anti-bark devices may be useful (see our handout on ‘Barking’), but the dog will continue to remain anxious, and the motivation to vocalize may be too strong for the products to be effective. Tranquilizers and anti-anxiety drugs and pheromones may also be useful for short-term use, until the owner has effectively corrected the problem.
How can the dog be retrained so that it is less anxious during departures?
Since the underlying problem is anxiety, try to reduce all forms of anxiety, prior to departure, at the time of departure, and at the time of homecoming. In addition, the pet must learn to accept progressively longer periods of inattention and separation while the owners are at home.
What should be done prior to departures?
Before any lengthy departure, provide a vigorous session of play and exercise. This not only helps to reduce some of the dog’s energy and tire it out, but also provides a period of attention. A brief training session can also be a productive way to further interact and “work” with your dog. For the final 15-30 minutes prior to departure, the dog should be ignored. It would be best if your dog were trained to go to its rest and relaxation area with a radio, TV, or video playing, (as above) as the owner could then prepare for departure while the pet is out of sight and earshot of the owner. The key is to avoid as many of the departure signals as possible, so that the dog’s anxiety doesn’t heighten, even before the owner leaves. Brushing teeth, changing into work clothes, or collecting keys, purse, briefcase or schoolbooks, are all routines that might be able to be performed out of sight of the dog. Owners might also consider changing clothes at work, preparing and packing a lunch the night before, or might even consider leaving their car at a neighbor's so the dog wouldn’t hear the car pulling out of the driveway. The other alternative is to expose your dog to as many of these cues as possible while you remain at home so that they no longer are predictive of departure (see below). A few minutes prior to departure the dog should be given some fresh toys and objects to keep it occupied so that the owner can leave while the dog is distracted. Saying goodbye will only serve to bring attention to the departure.
What should I do if I come home to a mess?
Your dog has been extremely anxious during your departure and presumably this has led to any destruction or housesoiling. Therefore, anything you might do to increase your pet’s anxiety can only make matters worse for future departures and will not do anything to correct what has already been done.
Therefore both punishment and excited greetings must be avoided. At homecomings, ignore your dog until it calms and settles down (this may take 10-15 minutes). Your dog should soon learn that the faster it settles the sooner it will get your attention.
What can be done to reduce anxiety at the time of departure?
As you depart, your dog should be kept busy and occupied, and preferably out of sight, so that there is little or no anxiety. Giving special food treats that have been saved for departures (and mock departure training sessions) can help keep the dog distracted and perhaps “enjoying itself” while you leave. Dogs that are highly aroused and stimulated by food may become so intensively occupied in a peanut butter coated dog toy, a fresh piece of rawhide, a dog toy stuffed with liver and dog food, or some frozen dog treats, that they may not even notice you leave. Be certain that the distraction devices last as long as possible so that the dog continues to occupy its time until you are “long gone”. Frozen treats placed in the dog’s food bowl, toys that are tightly stuffed with goodies, toys that are designed to require manipulation and work to obtain the food reward, toys that can maintain lengthy chewing, and timed feeders that open throughout the day are a few suggestions. Determine what best motivates your dog. For example, if a particular toy is highly successful provide two or three of the same type rather than toys that do not maintain your dog’s interest. It may also be helpful to provide some or all of the dog’s food during departures with a few special surprises in the bottom of the bowl. On rare occasions a second pet can help to keep the dog occupied and distracted during departures. Neither food, nor the second pet is likely to be useful in dogs that are too anxious.
My dog starts to get anxious even before I leave. What can I do?
There are a number of activities that we do consistently prior to each departure. The dog soon learns to identify these cues or signals with imminent departure. On the other hand, some dogs learn that certain other signals mean that the owners are staying home or nearby (inhibiting cues) and therefore can help the dog to relax. If we can prevent the dog from observing any of these anxiety inducing pre-departure cues, or if we train the dog that these cues are no longer predictive of departure, then the anxiety is greatly reduced. Even with the best of efforts some dogs will still pick up on “cues” that the owner is about to depart. Train your pet to associate these cues with enjoyable, relaxing situations (rather than the anxiety of impending departure). By exposing the dog to these cues while you remain at home and when the dog is relaxed or otherwise occupied, they are no longer predictive of departure. This entails some retraining while you are home. You get the items (keys, shoes, briefcase, jacket etc.) that normally signal your departure, and walk to the door. However, you do not leave or exit the house just put everything away. The dog will be watching and possibly get up, but once you put every thing away, the dog should lie down. Then, once the dog is calm, this is repeated. However, only 3-4 repetitions should be done in a single training session; it is vital that the dog be calm and settled before the cues are presented again. Eventually, the dog will not attend to these cues (habituate) because they are no longer predictive of you leaving and will not react, get up or look anxious as you go about your pre-departure tasks. Then, the dog will be less anxious when you do leave. This often allows the next step in re-training, planned departures.
What can be done to retrain the dog to reduce the dependence and following?
The most important aspect of retraining is to teach the dog to be independent and relaxed in your presence. Only when you have taught the dog to stay in place in its bed or relaxation area, rather than constantly following you around, will it be possible to train the dog to begin to accept actual (or mock) departures.
Attention-getting behaviors must not pay off. Any attempts at attention must be ignored. On the other hand, lying quietly away from you should be rewarded. Teach your dog that it is the quiet behavior that will receive attention, and not following you around, or demanding attention. Teach your dog to relax in its quiet area and to accept lengthy periods of inattention when you are home. You may have to begin with very short periods of inattention and gradually shape this to 30 minute periods or longer. Training can progress much quicker if you teach the down stay and go to your mat command so that you “tell” your dog what is the desired behavior (see our settle exercises handout). Be sure to schedule attention, interaction and play sessions that you initiate and develop a routine while you are at home that incorporates play and attention sessions followed by sessions of inattention (for napping or playing with toys). Your dog should get use to this routine so that you can depart while the dog is calm.
How can I teach my dog to accept my departures?
Formal retraining should be directed at teaching your dog to remain on its mat, in its bed, or in its crate or den area, for progressively longer periods of time (30 minutes or more). You may need to begin with food lure exercises, starting with a down-stay and gradually increasing the time and the level of relaxation at each session. Once the pet will stay in your presence, begin to walk away and return beginning with just a few feet for a few seconds and progressing over time to leaving the room for 30 minutes or longer. Reward with a play or attention session, perhaps coming back and giving a gentle massage or tummy rub. In this way the desired behavior is being shaped and reinforced with the very attention that the dog craves. Remember however, that attention at other times, especially on demand, encourages the dog to follow and pester rather than stay in its bed and relax. A head halter can be particularly useful throughout this training to insure that the pet remains in position and immediately responds to the command.
From this point on, your dog should be encouraged to stay in its bed or crate for extended periods of time rather than sitting at your feet or on your lap. If your dog can also be taught to sleep in this relaxation area at night rather than on your bed or in your bedroom, this may help to break the over-attachment and dependence more quickly. During these training exercises use as many cues as possible to help relax the dog. Mimic the secure environment that the dog feels when the owner is at home. Leave the TV on. Play a favorite video or CD. Leave a favorite blanket or chew toy in the area. All of these cues may help to calm the dog.
How do I progress to leaving the house?
Finally, practice short “mock” departures. During “mock” or graduated departure training, the dog should be exercised, given a short formal training session, and taken to its bed or mat to relax. Give the ‘down-stay’ command, a few toys and treats and leave. The first few "mock" departures should be identical to the training exercises above, but instead of leaving the room for a few minutes while the dog is calm and distracted, you will begin to leave the home. The first few departures should be just long enough to leave and return without any signs of anxiety or destructiveness. This might last from a few seconds to a couple of minutes; however, the hardest part and most critical part may be to merely get out the door without the dog becoming anxious. . Gradually but randomly increase the time. As the time of departure approaches 10 or 15 minutes, begin to include other activities associated with departure such as opening and closing the car door and returning, turning on and off the car engine and returning or pulling the car out of the driveway and returning.
How come my dog gets so anxious when I leave home, but is just fine when I leave the car?
Many dogs that destroy the home when left alone will stay in a car or van without becoming anxious or destructive. This is because the dog has learned to relax and enjoy the car rides, without the need for constant physical attention and contact. And, when the owner does leave this relaxed dog in the car, the departures are generally quite short. The owner may occasionally leave the dog in the car during longer absences. The owner has trained the dog using inattention, relaxation and a graduated departure technique. The dog has learned that when he is in the car, the owner returns quickly and he can be good and not be anxious. What is very important is to progress slowly through the series of departures. If when you return, the dog is anxious or extremely excited, then the departure was too long and the next one should be shorter. This is an effective technique, but very slow in the beginning. The goal is to teach the dog “my owner is only going to be gone for a short time; they are coming right back; I can be good.”
Is drug therapy useful?
Drug therapy can be useful especially during initial departure training. Tranquilizers alone do not reduce the pet’s anxiety and may only be helpful to sedate your dog so that it is less likely to investigate and destroy. Often the most suitable drugs for long-term use are anti-depressants, anti-anxiety drugs or a combination. Drugs alone will do little or nothing to improve separation anxiety. It is the retraining program that is needed to help your dog gain some independence and accept some time away from you. Pheromone therapy can also be useful for diminishing anxiety both while you are home and when you are away.
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
SEPARATION ANXIETY ?
How do I know if my pet’s problem is due to separation anxiety?
Separation anxiety describes dogs that usually are overly attached or dependent on family members. They become extremely anxious and show distress behaviors of vocalization, destruction, house-soiling or inactivity when separated from the owners. Most dogs with separation anxiety try to remain close to their owners and become increasingly anxious the greater the separation. They may follow the owners from room to room and begin to display signs of anxiety as soon as the owners prepare to leave. Some of these dogs crave a great deal of physical contact and attention from their owners and can be demanding. During departures or separations they may begin to salivate or pant profusely, vocalize, eliminate, and refuse to eat, become destructive or become quiet and withdrawn. Most often these behaviors occur within about 20 minutes of the owner’s departure. While typically the behavior occurs each and every time the owner leaves, it can only happen on selected departures, such as work-day departures, or when the owner leaves again after coming home from work. Dogs with separation anxiety are also often quite excited and aroused when the owner returns jumping, whining, running around for 5-15 minutes when you first come home.
Are there other reasons that my dog may engage in these behaviors?
Many dogs, especially puppies enjoy chewing and engage in the behavior when they have nothing better to keep them occupied. House-soiling may be due to medical problems, leaving the dog alone for longer than it can control its bladder, or inadequate house-training. Vocalization may be due to territorial intrusion by strangers or other animals, and can be a rewarded behavior if the dog receives any form of attention when it vocalizes or rewarded by the stimulus leaving. Some dogs will attempt to escape or become extremely anxious when confined, so that destructiveness or house-soiling when a dog is locked up in a crate, basement, or laundry room, may be due to confinement or barrier anxiety and associated attempts at escape. In addition, noise phobias such as a thunderstorm that passes through during the owner’s absence, may lead to marked destructiveness, house-soiling, salivation and vocalization. Old dogs with medical problems such as loss of hearing or sight, painful conditions and cognitive dysfunction may become more anxious in general, and seek out the owner’s attention for security and relief. While giving attention to help calm your dog may seem to be the best alternative, this may greatly increase your dogs need to be with you and around you at all times.
Where do I start?
Before you can begin to consider departure training, you must focus on developing a routine and training your pet to settle down and relax before it can earn attention. In other words you use the very rewards that your dog is seeking to teach independent behavior and relaxed times away from you. Until you can get your pet to settle and relax without attention when you are at home, your pet is unlikely to settle when you leave.
1. Establish a predictable routine
Since your dog is anxious you need to begin by making his day calmer and more predictable whether you are home or away. Establish a daily routine so that your pet can begin to predict when exercise, attention, feeding, training, play and elimination can be expected and when it is time to settle and nap or play with favored toys. Try to schedule times for object play and naps at times when you would normally depart.
2. Environmental enrichment – meeting your dog’s needs
While maintaining a regular routine, the pet’s day should be sufficiently enriched to meet or exceed its needs for social play, exercise, training and affection. In effect, you should initiate enough regular interactive sessions and provide enough play toys so that in between your pet is ready to settle down and relax. New exploratory and chew toys should be added in between social play times, so that the pet can focus on its own toys when it is time to settle. Feeding toys can also replace standard food bowls to make feeding time more of a mental and physical effort.
3. Establish a predictable protocol for rewards
If your pet has separation anxiety, it’s likely that your pet’s favored rewards are the attention and play that you provide. Treats, food, play and chew toys may also be highly desirable to the pet. Take each of the pet’s most valuable rewards and ask yourself: “what behavior does my pet need to learn” and “what behavior should I never reinforce”. With separation anxiety the answer should be clear; you must reinforce the pet for settling down, relaxing and showing some independence, while attention seeking and following behaviors should never be reinforced. Therefore, training should focus on extended and relaxed down stays and going to a bed or mat on command (see our settle exercises handout). If your dog seeks attention, your options are to ignore entirely until your dog settles, or to have your dog do a down-stay or go to its mat. After sufficient time in the down-stay or on the mat, give some attention or affection as a reward. Gradually shape longer periods of inattention before attention is given. The goal is not to ignore the dog, but rather to ignore attention-seeking behaviors. You want the dog to learn that calm and quiet behavior is desired and the best way to receive attention.
4. Train settle (see settle exercise handout)
The goal of training is that your dog learns to settle comfortably on cue. Focus on having your pet in a settled down, or lying on its bed or mat (or crate) before you give any reward. Not only should attention-seeking behavior be ignored, but all casual interactions should be avoided for the first few weeks, so that it is clear to both you and your dog that a settled response predictably achieves rewards and attention seeking does not. Practice training down stays and mat exercises (see our settle handout) using food lures, clicker training or head halter training, whichever you find most effective. Gradually shape longer stays and longer times on the bed or mat before attention, affection, treats or play is earned.
5. Develop an area and mat for relaxation
Having a bed or mat location (in a room, pen, or crate) where your dog can be taught to rest, nap, play and even sleep, can provide a secure area for your pet when you are not home. You can begin by training your pet to go to the area and gradually shape longer stays and more relaxed responses in the area before rewards are given. It might be helpful to have a barricade, tie down or crate that could be closed to ensure that your dog remains in the area for long enough at each session before being released. On the other hand, know your limits for success; your dog must be calm and settled when released so as to avoid reinforcing crying or barking behavior. At first your dog can be taken to this area as part of training routine using a toy or treat as a lure or a leash and head halter. However, in time a daily routine should be established where the dog learns to lie on its mat after each exercise, play and training session to either nap or play with its own toys. This is similar to the routine for crate training where the mat or bed becomes the dog’s bed or playpen. Other than play, exercise and training sessions, focus on giving your dog some or all of its rewards (treats, toys, chews, affection, feeding toys) only in this area. Audible cues such as a radio, CD or TV, odors such as aromatherapy candles or a piece of clothing with the owner’s scent, and a comfortable bed, can help to promote a relaxed response since they are associated with relaxation and owner presence (non-departure).
6. For some dogs it also is useful to work on responses to simple commands and having them earn all things. This can be as simple as having the dog respond to a command such as “sit” prior to receiving anything it wants. For example if the dog asks to go outside prior to opening the door the dog is given the command to “sit” and once it complies the door is opened. This technique can be used for anything the dog desires. See our handout on learn to earn for other examples.
When I need to leave, what can I do immediately to prevent damage?
This is an extremely difficult question. The goal of treatment is to reduce your pet’s level of anxiety by training it to feel comfortable in your absence. This can be a long intensive process. Yet, most owners will need to deal with the damage or vocalization immediately. During initial retraining its usually best to hire a dog sitter, take the dog to work, find a friend to care for the dog for the day, board the dog for the day, or arrange to take some time off from work to retrain the dog. Crate training or dog proofing techniques may work especially well for those dogs that already have an area where they are used to being confined. Crates should be used with caution however, with dogs that have separation anxiety and/or barrier frustrations, because they can promote intense escape attempts and may result in fairly serious injuries. It is important to choose a room or area that does not further increase the dog’s anxiety. The dog’s bedroom or feeding area may therefore be most practical. Booby-traps might also be used to keep the dog away from potential problem areas (See our handouts on ‘Behavior management products’ and ‘Canine punishment’).
For vocalization, anti-bark devices may be useful (see our handout on ‘Barking’), but the dog will continue to remain anxious, and the motivation to vocalize may be too strong for the products to be effective. Tranquilizers and anti-anxiety drugs and pheromones may also be useful for short-term use, until the owner has effectively corrected the problem.
How can the dog be retrained so that it is less anxious during departures?
Since the underlying problem is anxiety, try to reduce all forms of anxiety, prior to departure, at the time of departure, and at the time of homecoming. In addition, the pet must learn to accept progressively longer periods of inattention and separation while the owners are at home.
What should be done prior to departures?
Before any lengthy departure, provide a vigorous session of play and exercise. This not only helps to reduce some of the dog’s energy and tire it out, but also provides a period of attention. A brief training session can also be a productive way to further interact and “work” with your dog. For the final 15-30 minutes prior to departure, the dog should be ignored. It would be best if your dog were trained to go to its rest and relaxation area with a radio, TV, or video playing, (as above) as the owner could then prepare for departure while the pet is out of sight and earshot of the owner. The key is to avoid as many of the departure signals as possible, so that the dog’s anxiety doesn’t heighten, even before the owner leaves. Brushing teeth, changing into work clothes, or collecting keys, purse, briefcase or schoolbooks, are all routines that might be able to be performed out of sight of the dog. Owners might also consider changing clothes at work, preparing and packing a lunch the night before, or might even consider leaving their car at a neighbor's so the dog wouldn’t hear the car pulling out of the driveway. The other alternative is to expose your dog to as many of these cues as possible while you remain at home so that they no longer are predictive of departure (see below). A few minutes prior to departure the dog should be given some fresh toys and objects to keep it occupied so that the owner can leave while the dog is distracted. Saying goodbye will only serve to bring attention to the departure.
What should I do if I come home to a mess?
Your dog has been extremely anxious during your departure and presumably this has led to any destruction or housesoiling. Therefore, anything you might do to increase your pet’s anxiety can only make matters worse for future departures and will not do anything to correct what has already been done.
Therefore both punishment and excited greetings must be avoided. At homecomings, ignore your dog until it calms and settles down (this may take 10-15 minutes). Your dog should soon learn that the faster it settles the sooner it will get your attention.
What can be done to reduce anxiety at the time of departure?
As you depart, your dog should be kept busy and occupied, and preferably out of sight, so that there is little or no anxiety. Giving special food treats that have been saved for departures (and mock departure training sessions) can help keep the dog distracted and perhaps “enjoying itself” while you leave. Dogs that are highly aroused and stimulated by food may become so intensively occupied in a peanut butter coated dog toy, a fresh piece of rawhide, a dog toy stuffed with liver and dog food, or some frozen dog treats, that they may not even notice you leave. Be certain that the distraction devices last as long as possible so that the dog continues to occupy its time until you are “long gone”. Frozen treats placed in the dog’s food bowl, toys that are tightly stuffed with goodies, toys that are designed to require manipulation and work to obtain the food reward, toys that can maintain lengthy chewing, and timed feeders that open throughout the day are a few suggestions. Determine what best motivates your dog. For example, if a particular toy is highly successful provide two or three of the same type rather than toys that do not maintain your dog’s interest. It may also be helpful to provide some or all of the dog’s food during departures with a few special surprises in the bottom of the bowl. On rare occasions a second pet can help to keep the dog occupied and distracted during departures. Neither food, nor the second pet is likely to be useful in dogs that are too anxious.
My dog starts to get anxious even before I leave. What can I do?
There are a number of activities that we do consistently prior to each departure. The dog soon learns to identify these cues or signals with imminent departure. On the other hand, some dogs learn that certain other signals mean that the owners are staying home or nearby (inhibiting cues) and therefore can help the dog to relax. If we can prevent the dog from observing any of these anxiety inducing pre-departure cues, or if we train the dog that these cues are no longer predictive of departure, then the anxiety is greatly reduced. Even with the best of efforts some dogs will still pick up on “cues” that the owner is about to depart. Train your pet to associate these cues with enjoyable, relaxing situations (rather than the anxiety of impending departure). By exposing the dog to these cues while you remain at home and when the dog is relaxed or otherwise occupied, they are no longer predictive of departure. This entails some retraining while you are home. You get the items (keys, shoes, briefcase, jacket etc.) that normally signal your departure, and walk to the door. However, you do not leave or exit the house just put everything away. The dog will be watching and possibly get up, but once you put every thing away, the dog should lie down. Then, once the dog is calm, this is repeated. However, only 3-4 repetitions should be done in a single training session; it is vital that the dog be calm and settled before the cues are presented again. Eventually, the dog will not attend to these cues (habituate) because they are no longer predictive of you leaving and will not react, get up or look anxious as you go about your pre-departure tasks. Then, the dog will be less anxious when you do leave. This often allows the next step in re-training, planned departures.
What can be done to retrain the dog to reduce the dependence and following?
The most important aspect of retraining is to teach the dog to be independent and relaxed in your presence. Only when you have taught the dog to stay in place in its bed or relaxation area, rather than constantly following you around, will it be possible to train the dog to begin to accept actual (or mock) departures.
Attention-getting behaviors must not pay off. Any attempts at attention must be ignored. On the other hand, lying quietly away from you should be rewarded. Teach your dog that it is the quiet behavior that will receive attention, and not following you around, or demanding attention. Teach your dog to relax in its quiet area and to accept lengthy periods of inattention when you are home. You may have to begin with very short periods of inattention and gradually shape this to 30 minute periods or longer. Training can progress much quicker if you teach the down stay and go to your mat command so that you “tell” your dog what is the desired behavior (see our settle exercises handout). Be sure to schedule attention, interaction and play sessions that you initiate and develop a routine while you are at home that incorporates play and attention sessions followed by sessions of inattention (for napping or playing with toys). Your dog should get use to this routine so that you can depart while the dog is calm.
How can I teach my dog to accept my departures?
Formal retraining should be directed at teaching your dog to remain on its mat, in its bed, or in its crate or den area, for progressively longer periods of time (30 minutes or more). You may need to begin with food lure exercises, starting with a down-stay and gradually increasing the time and the level of relaxation at each session. Once the pet will stay in your presence, begin to walk away and return beginning with just a few feet for a few seconds and progressing over time to leaving the room for 30 minutes or longer. Reward with a play or attention session, perhaps coming back and giving a gentle massage or tummy rub. In this way the desired behavior is being shaped and reinforced with the very attention that the dog craves. Remember however, that attention at other times, especially on demand, encourages the dog to follow and pester rather than stay in its bed and relax. A head halter can be particularly useful throughout this training to insure that the pet remains in position and immediately responds to the command.
From this point on, your dog should be encouraged to stay in its bed or crate for extended periods of time rather than sitting at your feet or on your lap. If your dog can also be taught to sleep in this relaxation area at night rather than on your bed or in your bedroom, this may help to break the over-attachment and dependence more quickly. During these training exercises use as many cues as possible to help relax the dog. Mimic the secure environment that the dog feels when the owner is at home. Leave the TV on. Play a favorite video or CD. Leave a favorite blanket or chew toy in the area. All of these cues may help to calm the dog.
How do I progress to leaving the house?
Finally, practice short “mock” departures. During “mock” or graduated departure training, the dog should be exercised, given a short formal training session, and taken to its bed or mat to relax. Give the ‘down-stay’ command, a few toys and treats and leave. The first few "mock" departures should be identical to the training exercises above, but instead of leaving the room for a few minutes while the dog is calm and distracted, you will begin to leave the home. The first few departures should be just long enough to leave and return without any signs of anxiety or destructiveness. This might last from a few seconds to a couple of minutes; however, the hardest part and most critical part may be to merely get out the door without the dog becoming anxious. . Gradually but randomly increase the time. As the time of departure approaches 10 or 15 minutes, begin to include other activities associated with departure such as opening and closing the car door and returning, turning on and off the car engine and returning or pulling the car out of the driveway and returning.
How come my dog gets so anxious when I leave home, but is just fine when I leave the car?
Many dogs that destroy the home when left alone will stay in a car or van without becoming anxious or destructive. This is because the dog has learned to relax and enjoy the car rides, without the need for constant physical attention and contact. And, when the owner does leave this relaxed dog in the car, the departures are generally quite short. The owner may occasionally leave the dog in the car during longer absences. The owner has trained the dog using inattention, relaxation and a graduated departure technique. The dog has learned that when he is in the car, the owner returns quickly and he can be good and not be anxious. What is very important is to progress slowly through the series of departures. If when you return, the dog is anxious or extremely excited, then the departure was too long and the next one should be shorter. This is an effective technique, but very slow in the beginning. The goal is to teach the dog “my owner is only going to be gone for a short time; they are coming right back; I can be good.”
Is drug therapy useful?
Drug therapy can be useful especially during initial departure training. Tranquilizers alone do not reduce the pet’s anxiety and may only be helpful to sedate your dog so that it is less likely to investigate and destroy. Often the most suitable drugs for long-term use are anti-depressants, anti-anxiety drugs or a combination. Drugs alone will do little or nothing to improve separation anxiety. It is the retraining program that is needed to help your dog gain some independence and accept some time away from you. Pheromone therapy can also be useful for diminishing anxiety both while you are home and when you are away.
Friday, April 24, 2009
Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery
tel: 631-367-7387 website: advancedcareforpets.com
Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery
Many people “shop around” for the best price on this surgery, without the knowledge of why the cost varies among veterinary practices. This guide was put together to help you find the best fit between the veterinary practice and your expectations for the care of your pet.
Questions to Ask and Why to Ask Them:
1. Will my pet receive a complete physical examination and pre-anesthetic testing prior to surgery?
This is important for a number of reasons. It is our first defense against performing surgery on an animal that may have infectious disease, a heart murmur, or be debilitated from parasites. All patients receive a thorough physical examination prior to any anesthetic being administered, and laboratory tests are run to assess your pet’s ability to process and metabolize the anesthetic drugs.
2. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet during surgery?
While most surgery is uneventful, emergencies sometimes arise. Early detection of impending problems greatly aids our ability to intervene and correct the problem. An intravenous (IV) catheter is placed prior to anesthesia for the administration of drugs and fluids, as well as to provide the ability to rapidly administer treatment should your pet have a problem while under anesthesia. IV fluids are given to your pet during the procedure to maintain normal blood pressure and to ensure that there is good circulation to vital organs such as the kidneys. Injectable (propoflo) and inhalant anesthetics (sevoflo) are used in combination to provide a level of safety similar to what you find in human hospitals. An endotracheal (breathing) tube is used to provide oxygen and inhalant anesthetics to your pet, while at the same time ensuring an open airway at all times. A positive pressure ventilator will breathe for your pet throughout the procedure. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, uses state-of-the-art body function monitors, including pulse oximetry, blood pressure measurement, electrocardiogram, aortic pressure, core body temperature, carbon dioxide levels, respiratory rate and heart rate to closely monitor your pet. The practice should also have emergency drugs and supplies handy in the event of an emergency.
3. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet after surgery?
Surgery patients lose body heat through anesthesia and surgery. If patients get too cold, the heart can be affected. Patient temperature should be monitored at regular intervals after surgery and supplemental heating provided as needed. Your pet’s gum color, pulse, respiration and blood pressure should also be monitored. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, will stay with your pet throughout the recovery from surgery.
4. Doesn’t surgery hurt? What pain control do you provide?
This is very important-surgery hurts! The anesthetic will not provide pain control once the pet wakes up. Pain control medication should be offered. We take the comfort of our patients very seriously. Any surgery, regardless of how involved it is or how good the surgeon is, will cause pain. We include pain medications in our anesthetic protocols to prevent your pet from experiencing pain upon waking up. We use a combination of pain medications in the hospital to ensure effective, long-lasting pain relief. In certain cases, we will use a pain patch applied to the skin to provide several days of pain relief. We also will always send home oral pain medications to help keep your pet comfortable after being discharged from the hospital. We believe that it is never acceptable for a pet to be in pain, and we take immediate action to prevent and manage pain and discomfort that can occur from surgical procedures
5. Will I receive written post-surgical care instructions for my pet?
We routinely provide you with written discharge instructions that will help you to understand what your role needs to be in your pet’s post-operative recuperation in order to minimize any chance of having problems after the surgery. Typically, we will also call you at home after your pet is discharged to ensure that everything is going well, and to answer any questions you may have. We are happy to address any questions or concerns you may have about your pet, before or after the procedure 24 hours each day of the week. Aftercare of surgical patients is very important for proper healing.
We invite you to compare our standards to any veterinary facility; once you evaluate the level of care that your pet will receive at the Advanced Animal Care Center, we believe that your decision will be clear.
Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery
Many people “shop around” for the best price on this surgery, without the knowledge of why the cost varies among veterinary practices. This guide was put together to help you find the best fit between the veterinary practice and your expectations for the care of your pet.
Questions to Ask and Why to Ask Them:
1. Will my pet receive a complete physical examination and pre-anesthetic testing prior to surgery?
This is important for a number of reasons. It is our first defense against performing surgery on an animal that may have infectious disease, a heart murmur, or be debilitated from parasites. All patients receive a thorough physical examination prior to any anesthetic being administered, and laboratory tests are run to assess your pet’s ability to process and metabolize the anesthetic drugs.
2. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet during surgery?
While most surgery is uneventful, emergencies sometimes arise. Early detection of impending problems greatly aids our ability to intervene and correct the problem. An intravenous (IV) catheter is placed prior to anesthesia for the administration of drugs and fluids, as well as to provide the ability to rapidly administer treatment should your pet have a problem while under anesthesia. IV fluids are given to your pet during the procedure to maintain normal blood pressure and to ensure that there is good circulation to vital organs such as the kidneys. Injectable (propoflo) and inhalant anesthetics (sevoflo) are used in combination to provide a level of safety similar to what you find in human hospitals. An endotracheal (breathing) tube is used to provide oxygen and inhalant anesthetics to your pet, while at the same time ensuring an open airway at all times. A positive pressure ventilator will breathe for your pet throughout the procedure. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, uses state-of-the-art body function monitors, including pulse oximetry, blood pressure measurement, electrocardiogram, aortic pressure, core body temperature, carbon dioxide levels, respiratory rate and heart rate to closely monitor your pet. The practice should also have emergency drugs and supplies handy in the event of an emergency.
3. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet after surgery?
Surgery patients lose body heat through anesthesia and surgery. If patients get too cold, the heart can be affected. Patient temperature should be monitored at regular intervals after surgery and supplemental heating provided as needed. Your pet’s gum color, pulse, respiration and blood pressure should also be monitored. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, will stay with your pet throughout the recovery from surgery.
4. Doesn’t surgery hurt? What pain control do you provide?
This is very important-surgery hurts! The anesthetic will not provide pain control once the pet wakes up. Pain control medication should be offered. We take the comfort of our patients very seriously. Any surgery, regardless of how involved it is or how good the surgeon is, will cause pain. We include pain medications in our anesthetic protocols to prevent your pet from experiencing pain upon waking up. We use a combination of pain medications in the hospital to ensure effective, long-lasting pain relief. In certain cases, we will use a pain patch applied to the skin to provide several days of pain relief. We also will always send home oral pain medications to help keep your pet comfortable after being discharged from the hospital. We believe that it is never acceptable for a pet to be in pain, and we take immediate action to prevent and manage pain and discomfort that can occur from surgical procedures
5. Will I receive written post-surgical care instructions for my pet?
We routinely provide you with written discharge instructions that will help you to understand what your role needs to be in your pet’s post-operative recuperation in order to minimize any chance of having problems after the surgery. Typically, we will also call you at home after your pet is discharged to ensure that everything is going well, and to answer any questions you may have. We are happy to address any questions or concerns you may have about your pet, before or after the procedure 24 hours each day of the week. Aftercare of surgical patients is very important for proper healing.
We invite you to compare our standards to any veterinary facility; once you evaluate the level of care that your pet will receive at the Advanced Animal Care Center, we believe that your decision will be clear.
Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery
Consumer Guide to Elective Surgery
Many people “shop around” for the best price on this surgery, without the knowledge of why the cost varies among veterinary practices. This guide was put together to help you find the best fit between the veterinary practice and your expectations for the care of your pet.
Questions to Ask and Why to Ask Them:
1. Will my pet receive a complete physical examination and pre-anesthetic testing prior to surgery?
This is important for a number of reasons. It is our first defense against performing surgery on an animal that may have infectious disease, a heart murmur, or be debilitated from parasites. All patients receive a thorough physical examination prior to any anesthetic being administered, and laboratory tests are run to assess your pet’s ability to process and metabolize the anesthetic drugs.
2. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet during surgery?
While most surgery is uneventful, emergencies sometimes arise. Early detection of impending problems greatly aids our ability to intervene and correct the problem. An intravenous (IV) catheter is placed prior to anesthesia for the administration of drugs and fluids, as well as to provide the ability to rapidly administer treatment should your pet have a problem while under anesthesia. IV fluids are given to your pet during the procedure to maintain normal blood pressure and to ensure that there is good circulation to vital organs such as the kidneys. Injectable (propoflo) and inhalant anesthetics (sevoflo) are used in combination to provide a level of safety similar to what you find in human hospitals. An endotracheal (breathing) tube is used to provide oxygen and inhalant anesthetics to your pet, while at the same time ensuring an open airway at all times. A positive pressure ventilator will breathe for your pet throughout the procedure. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, uses state-of-the-art body function monitors, including pulse oximetry, blood pressure measurement, electrocardiogram, aortic pressure, core body temperature, carbon dioxide levels, respiratory rate and heart rate to closely monitor your pet. The practice should also have emergency drugs and supplies handy in the event of an emergency.
3. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet after surgery?
Surgery patients lose body heat through anesthesia and surgery. If patients get too cold, the heart can be affected. Patient temperature should be monitored at regular intervals after surgery and supplemental heating provided as needed. Your pet’s gum color, pulse, respiration and blood pressure should also be monitored. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, will stay with your pet throughout the recovery from surgery.
4. Doesn’t surgery hurt? What pain control do you provide?
This is very important-surgery hurts! The anesthetic will not provide pain control once the pet wakes up. Pain control medication should be offered. We take the comfort of our patients very seriously. Any surgery, regardless of how involved it is or how good the surgeon is, will cause pain. We include pain medications in our anesthetic protocols to prevent your pet from experiencing pain upon waking up. We use a combination of pain medications in the hospital to ensure effective, long-lasting pain relief. In certain cases, we will use a pain patch applied to the skin to provide several days of pain relief. We also will always send home oral pain medications to help keep your pet comfortable after being discharged from the hospital. We believe that it is never acceptable for a pet to be in pain, and we take immediate action to prevent and manage pain and discomfort that can occur from surgical procedures
5. Will I receive written post-surgical care instructions for my pet?
We routinely provide you with written discharge instructions that will help you to understand what your role needs to be in your pet’s post-operative recuperation in order to minimize any chance of having problems after the surgery. Typically, we will also call you at home after your pet is discharged to ensure that everything is going well, and to answer any questions you may have. We are happy to address any questions or concerns you may have about your pet, before or after the procedure 24 hours each day of the week. Aftercare of surgical patients is very important for proper healing.
We invite you to compare our standards to any veterinary facility; once you evaluate the level of care that your pet will receive at the Advanced Animal Care Center, we believe that your decision will be clear.
Many people “shop around” for the best price on this surgery, without the knowledge of why the cost varies among veterinary practices. This guide was put together to help you find the best fit between the veterinary practice and your expectations for the care of your pet.
Questions to Ask and Why to Ask Them:
1. Will my pet receive a complete physical examination and pre-anesthetic testing prior to surgery?
This is important for a number of reasons. It is our first defense against performing surgery on an animal that may have infectious disease, a heart murmur, or be debilitated from parasites. All patients receive a thorough physical examination prior to any anesthetic being administered, and laboratory tests are run to assess your pet’s ability to process and metabolize the anesthetic drugs.
2. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet during surgery?
While most surgery is uneventful, emergencies sometimes arise. Early detection of impending problems greatly aids our ability to intervene and correct the problem. An intravenous (IV) catheter is placed prior to anesthesia for the administration of drugs and fluids, as well as to provide the ability to rapidly administer treatment should your pet have a problem while under anesthesia. IV fluids are given to your pet during the procedure to maintain normal blood pressure and to ensure that there is good circulation to vital organs such as the kidneys. Injectable (propoflo) and inhalant anesthetics (sevoflo) are used in combination to provide a level of safety similar to what you find in human hospitals. An endotracheal (breathing) tube is used to provide oxygen and inhalant anesthetics to your pet, while at the same time ensuring an open airway at all times. A positive pressure ventilator will breathe for your pet throughout the procedure. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, uses state-of-the-art body function monitors, including pulse oximetry, blood pressure measurement, electrocardiogram, aortic pressure, core body temperature, carbon dioxide levels, respiratory rate and heart rate to closely monitor your pet. The practice should also have emergency drugs and supplies handy in the event of an emergency.
3. What safety precautions will be taken with my pet after surgery?
Surgery patients lose body heat through anesthesia and surgery. If patients get too cold, the heart can be affected. Patient temperature should be monitored at regular intervals after surgery and supplemental heating provided as needed. Your pet’s gum color, pulse, respiration and blood pressure should also be monitored. A veterinary technician, under the direct supervision of Dr. Selmer, will stay with your pet throughout the recovery from surgery.
4. Doesn’t surgery hurt? What pain control do you provide?
This is very important-surgery hurts! The anesthetic will not provide pain control once the pet wakes up. Pain control medication should be offered. We take the comfort of our patients very seriously. Any surgery, regardless of how involved it is or how good the surgeon is, will cause pain. We include pain medications in our anesthetic protocols to prevent your pet from experiencing pain upon waking up. We use a combination of pain medications in the hospital to ensure effective, long-lasting pain relief. In certain cases, we will use a pain patch applied to the skin to provide several days of pain relief. We also will always send home oral pain medications to help keep your pet comfortable after being discharged from the hospital. We believe that it is never acceptable for a pet to be in pain, and we take immediate action to prevent and manage pain and discomfort that can occur from surgical procedures
5. Will I receive written post-surgical care instructions for my pet?
We routinely provide you with written discharge instructions that will help you to understand what your role needs to be in your pet’s post-operative recuperation in order to minimize any chance of having problems after the surgery. Typically, we will also call you at home after your pet is discharged to ensure that everything is going well, and to answer any questions you may have. We are happy to address any questions or concerns you may have about your pet, before or after the procedure 24 hours each day of the week. Aftercare of surgical patients is very important for proper healing.
We invite you to compare our standards to any veterinary facility; once you evaluate the level of care that your pet will receive at the Advanced Animal Care Center, we believe that your decision will be clear.
What is Laparoscopy?
ADVANCED ANIMAL CARE CENTER
260 Evergreen Avenue
South Huntington, NY 11746
www.Advancedcareforpets.com
(631)-FOR-PETS (367-7387
Because Your Pet deserves the Best Care available
What is Laparoscopy?
Laparoscopy is a minimally invasive technique for viewing the internal structures of the abdomen. A laparoscope (camera) inserted through a small incision in the abdomen magnifies internal structures of the abdomen on a TV monitor for thorough examination. Additional small incisions are made to facilitate the use of surgical instruments. The most common application of laparoscopy is biopsy. In recent years, laparoscopy has been adopted as less traumatic and less painful alternative to traditional spays.
What is the Difference?
Traditional Spays
In traditional spays a 2” to 3” incision is made in the abdomen through which the ovarian ligament is torn from the abdominal wall. This tearing may cause bruising to the abdominal wall and postoperative pain. By performing the procedure laparoscopically the patient experiences less trauma and minimal pain.
Laparoscopic Spays
In laparoscopic spays the procedure is performed through two or three small incisions in the abdomen, typically 3/16” in size depending the size of the animal. With the laparoscope we are able to perform the surgery with magnified views of the organs, allowing for greater precision. The ovarian ligament is carefully cut and cauterized, rather than torn. With laparoscopic spays we are able to offer our patients reduced pain, minimal recovery time and less trauma than with traditional spays.
Advantages of Laparoscopic Spays over Traditional Surgery
1.) Smaller incisions are less painful and reduce recovery time.
2.) Controlled cuts minimize pain and bruising caused by tearing tissue in traditional spays.
3.) Simple to perform and involves few complications
4.) Allows for excellent visualization of abdominal organs.
5.) The entire surgery is performed through a few tiny incisions rather than a larger abdominal opening.
6.) In larger breed dog’s gastropexy can be performed at the time of spay.
260 Evergreen Avenue
South Huntington, NY 11746
www.Advancedcareforpets.com
(631)-FOR-PETS (367-7387
Because Your Pet deserves the Best Care available
What is Laparoscopy?
Laparoscopy is a minimally invasive technique for viewing the internal structures of the abdomen. A laparoscope (camera) inserted through a small incision in the abdomen magnifies internal structures of the abdomen on a TV monitor for thorough examination. Additional small incisions are made to facilitate the use of surgical instruments. The most common application of laparoscopy is biopsy. In recent years, laparoscopy has been adopted as less traumatic and less painful alternative to traditional spays.
What is the Difference?
Traditional Spays
In traditional spays a 2” to 3” incision is made in the abdomen through which the ovarian ligament is torn from the abdominal wall. This tearing may cause bruising to the abdominal wall and postoperative pain. By performing the procedure laparoscopically the patient experiences less trauma and minimal pain.
Laparoscopic Spays
In laparoscopic spays the procedure is performed through two or three small incisions in the abdomen, typically 3/16” in size depending the size of the animal. With the laparoscope we are able to perform the surgery with magnified views of the organs, allowing for greater precision. The ovarian ligament is carefully cut and cauterized, rather than torn. With laparoscopic spays we are able to offer our patients reduced pain, minimal recovery time and less trauma than with traditional spays.
Advantages of Laparoscopic Spays over Traditional Surgery
1.) Smaller incisions are less painful and reduce recovery time.
2.) Controlled cuts minimize pain and bruising caused by tearing tissue in traditional spays.
3.) Simple to perform and involves few complications
4.) Allows for excellent visualization of abdominal organs.
5.) The entire surgery is performed through a few tiny incisions rather than a larger abdominal opening.
6.) In larger breed dog’s gastropexy can be performed at the time of spay.
A Natural Approach to your pet's care
Naturopathy
A Natural Approach To Your Pet’s Care
The Power to Alter Your Pet’s Genes' Behavior
You may not realize it, but you and your pet have spent your lives altering your genetic activity. When you took your first sip of wine or beer, you turned up the volume on your body's genetic ability to detoxify alcohol. Every summer, when you strive for that perfect tan, you activate the genes that protect your skin. Genes are not a fixed set of preprogrammed instructions. They are a dynamic, active part of your pet’s life, responding each day to the environment and their diet. ”Naturopathy” or “Nutrigenomics” addresses your pet’s individual needs and works with their body to help maintain good health. Each pet has different problems and considerations, which is why each pet needs its own specifically individualized dietary supplementation.
Dr. Michel Selmer, has been helping his patients discover a health, vitality, and joy in life that their owner’s never thought possible, simply by having them alter what they eat, which supplements they were given, and how they exercised. Yet he always assumed that the genetic part of our story had already been written. Like most of us, he believed the genes we inherited from our parents were the cards we were dealt. But recently, Dr. Selmer began to discover that we have an enormous power to improve our pet’s lives, even when it comes to their genes. True, we can't do anything about which chromosomes they got from their parents; we can't add new genes to the mix or eradicate old ones. But the genes they got at conception are only the beginning of the story. Dr. Selmer belives that we have the capacity to turn up the volume on some genes and silence others, vastly improving our capacity to provide our pet’s good health and happiness. What is a Nutritional Blood Test? The Nutritional Blood Test, or NBT, is a diagnostic tool used by Dr. Selmer who recognizes the importance of integrating nutrition with patient care. The NBT assesses the health of internal organs and the available vitamins, minerals and enzymes required for the metabolic processes. Using blood results and medical history, the NBT prioritizes the nutrients required to help optimize organ function and balance metabolism. It then matches the results to specific Nutraceuticals that support a clinical response. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to your other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process. Even if the patient is already using supplements, the NBT enhances the ability to dispense them effectively. The NBT is not meant to diagnose a particular disease, recommend medical therapy or replace current diagnostic protocols. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process even if you’re already using supplements for your animal.
How Does the NBT Work? The levels of certain chemicals in the blood are the end result of the metabolic processes and the utilization or excretion of the metabolic wastes from the body. The NBT looks beyond chemical testing and quantitative assays to identify imbalances that are due to poor nutrient absorption, utilization or metabolism. One contributing factor to the reported steady rise in chronic degenerative diseases in animals is the inadequate levels of vitamins, minerals, enzymes and vital nutrients found in many highly processed, commercially prepared foods. Over time, the animal’s nutrient reserves can become depleted, paving the way to disease. The NBT is a valuable tool for correcting these deficiencies and guiding sick animals back to health. The Optimum Range Within the normal blood reference range, there are subtle gradations of tissue integrity and organ efficiency that can be measured. The NBT assessment relies on an Optimum Range, an additional set of parameters that are narrower than the traditional reference range and in which organs and metabolic processes are functioning at peak efficiency. Results outside of the optimum range do not necessarily indicate disease. They do, however, indicate that a particular organ system is not functioning at optimal efficiency, and may require nutritional support. Just as the interpretation outside the normal range forms the basis for the diagnosis of a specific disease, the optimum range interpretation forms the basis for determining optimal- not just “passable”- health. The NBT compares the blood results to the optimum range. When a value falls outside of the optimum range, the underlying physiology and metabolism, as well as the specific glands involved and nutrients used by the body for these processes, are assessed. The assessment is further evaluated in combination with the diagnosis and the clinical signs, resulting in a recommended NBT Nutraceutical Program that is specific to your animal.
The Results of the NBT
The NBT provides a unique veterinary-client lab report that prescribes the most effective combination of nutrients including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars, specifically blended to match the imbalances found in the animal's blood. These nutrients are precisely dosed according to the animal's weight and the severity of the imbalances or deficiencies The nutrient combination, referred to as the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy, is given orally in an easy-to-use powder along with symptom-oriented liquid remedies. In the powdered form, the designated number of “scoopfuls” is simply mixed with the animal's food. Liquids are given orally, separate from the food. All remedies are custom-prescribed and individually labeled. Advantages of Using Custom Blended Powder and Liquid Formulas Palatable
Easy to Administer
Dosed By Weight Of Animal
Food Grade Quality
Scientifically Linked to Blood Work
Free of Chemical Additives, Preservatives And Fillers
Maximum Assimilation And High Bio Availability
Arrange for your animal to visit Dr. Selmer and request a Nutritional Blood Test (NBT). The NBT includes your animal’s routine blood work (CBC, Super Chem (w/LDH), T-4) along with the 9945 NBT form or a blood test questionnaire. After receiving the NBT results (typically within 3 to 5 days) Dr. Selmer will consult with you to go over your animal’s NBT results, after which, you may order the custom-blended nutraceutical powder or symptom-oriented liquid remedies.If you would like to start a NBT, please call our Dr. Selmer at (631) 367-7387 or send an email to us at drselmer@optonline.net
Quality ManufacturingAnimal Nutrition Technologies manufactures a line of powders, fixed formulas and liquid supplements that are made from the absolute best ingredients and manufactured at the highest standards of quality and reliability.
ANT has capability to provide custom blended powder formula pulling from an array of over a hundred different nutraceutical ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars.
A Natural Approach To Your Pet’s Care
The Power to Alter Your Pet’s Genes' Behavior
You may not realize it, but you and your pet have spent your lives altering your genetic activity. When you took your first sip of wine or beer, you turned up the volume on your body's genetic ability to detoxify alcohol. Every summer, when you strive for that perfect tan, you activate the genes that protect your skin. Genes are not a fixed set of preprogrammed instructions. They are a dynamic, active part of your pet’s life, responding each day to the environment and their diet. ”Naturopathy” or “Nutrigenomics” addresses your pet’s individual needs and works with their body to help maintain good health. Each pet has different problems and considerations, which is why each pet needs its own specifically individualized dietary supplementation.
Dr. Michel Selmer, has been helping his patients discover a health, vitality, and joy in life that their owner’s never thought possible, simply by having them alter what they eat, which supplements they were given, and how they exercised. Yet he always assumed that the genetic part of our story had already been written. Like most of us, he believed the genes we inherited from our parents were the cards we were dealt. But recently, Dr. Selmer began to discover that we have an enormous power to improve our pet’s lives, even when it comes to their genes. True, we can't do anything about which chromosomes they got from their parents; we can't add new genes to the mix or eradicate old ones. But the genes they got at conception are only the beginning of the story. Dr. Selmer belives that we have the capacity to turn up the volume on some genes and silence others, vastly improving our capacity to provide our pet’s good health and happiness. What is a Nutritional Blood Test? The Nutritional Blood Test, or NBT, is a diagnostic tool used by Dr. Selmer who recognizes the importance of integrating nutrition with patient care. The NBT assesses the health of internal organs and the available vitamins, minerals and enzymes required for the metabolic processes. Using blood results and medical history, the NBT prioritizes the nutrients required to help optimize organ function and balance metabolism. It then matches the results to specific Nutraceuticals that support a clinical response. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to your other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process. Even if the patient is already using supplements, the NBT enhances the ability to dispense them effectively. The NBT is not meant to diagnose a particular disease, recommend medical therapy or replace current diagnostic protocols. The NBT nutritional therapy is adjunctive to other methods of treatment. In addition, the supplements that comprise the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy can help improve chronic conditions and support the healing process even if you’re already using supplements for your animal.
How Does the NBT Work? The levels of certain chemicals in the blood are the end result of the metabolic processes and the utilization or excretion of the metabolic wastes from the body. The NBT looks beyond chemical testing and quantitative assays to identify imbalances that are due to poor nutrient absorption, utilization or metabolism. One contributing factor to the reported steady rise in chronic degenerative diseases in animals is the inadequate levels of vitamins, minerals, enzymes and vital nutrients found in many highly processed, commercially prepared foods. Over time, the animal’s nutrient reserves can become depleted, paving the way to disease. The NBT is a valuable tool for correcting these deficiencies and guiding sick animals back to health. The Optimum Range Within the normal blood reference range, there are subtle gradations of tissue integrity and organ efficiency that can be measured. The NBT assessment relies on an Optimum Range, an additional set of parameters that are narrower than the traditional reference range and in which organs and metabolic processes are functioning at peak efficiency. Results outside of the optimum range do not necessarily indicate disease. They do, however, indicate that a particular organ system is not functioning at optimal efficiency, and may require nutritional support. Just as the interpretation outside the normal range forms the basis for the diagnosis of a specific disease, the optimum range interpretation forms the basis for determining optimal- not just “passable”- health. The NBT compares the blood results to the optimum range. When a value falls outside of the optimum range, the underlying physiology and metabolism, as well as the specific glands involved and nutrients used by the body for these processes, are assessed. The assessment is further evaluated in combination with the diagnosis and the clinical signs, resulting in a recommended NBT Nutraceutical Program that is specific to your animal.
The Results of the NBT
The NBT provides a unique veterinary-client lab report that prescribes the most effective combination of nutrients including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars, specifically blended to match the imbalances found in the animal's blood. These nutrients are precisely dosed according to the animal's weight and the severity of the imbalances or deficiencies The nutrient combination, referred to as the NBT Nutraceutical Therapy, is given orally in an easy-to-use powder along with symptom-oriented liquid remedies. In the powdered form, the designated number of “scoopfuls” is simply mixed with the animal's food. Liquids are given orally, separate from the food. All remedies are custom-prescribed and individually labeled. Advantages of Using Custom Blended Powder and Liquid Formulas Palatable
Easy to Administer
Dosed By Weight Of Animal
Food Grade Quality
Scientifically Linked to Blood Work
Free of Chemical Additives, Preservatives And Fillers
Maximum Assimilation And High Bio Availability
Arrange for your animal to visit Dr. Selmer and request a Nutritional Blood Test (NBT). The NBT includes your animal’s routine blood work (CBC, Super Chem (w/LDH), T-4) along with the 9945 NBT form or a blood test questionnaire. After receiving the NBT results (typically within 3 to 5 days) Dr. Selmer will consult with you to go over your animal’s NBT results, after which, you may order the custom-blended nutraceutical powder or symptom-oriented liquid remedies.If you would like to start a NBT, please call our Dr. Selmer at (631) 367-7387 or send an email to us at drselmer@optonline.net
Quality ManufacturingAnimal Nutrition Technologies manufactures a line of powders, fixed formulas and liquid supplements that are made from the absolute best ingredients and manufactured at the highest standards of quality and reliability.
ANT has capability to provide custom blended powder formula pulling from an array of over a hundred different nutraceutical ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and raw glandulars.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Lumps and Bumps
Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
Lumps and Bumps
It is quite common to find unusual lumps and bumps on any area of your pet’s body, particularly as they age. This paper will help you decide what is the most likely problem and what action to take. *Note: I will not be discussing any skin diseases such as fleas, mites or skin infections that do not cause an actual raised lump or mass.
TYPES OF SKIN MASSES
ABSCESSES
Abscesses are localized areas of inflammation that can occur anywhere in or on the body. Abscesses are most commonly created by bacteria but they can also be caused by fungi or noninfectious irritants and be sterile. Abscesses can form after punctures or tears, as with bites, or as a result of an infection in a specific tissue such as a tooth or anal gland. Multiple small abscesses can form internally when an infectious agent travels through the blood and then lodges in various tissues such as the liver, kidney or lungs. Fortunately, abscesses are uncommon in the United States and are most often associated with infected anal glands, infected teeth, or the prostate gland. Abscesses are rarely seen post surgically if standard sterile technique is used.
Abscesses in the skin can appear quickly and may be firm and painful when touched. An abscess is surrounded by a reddened and inflamed area and feels warm to the touch. In my experience, most abscesses in your pets skin will readily. An abscess in the skin that does not involve any deep tissues will move with the skin. A swelling will appear on either side of the anus in the case of anal gland abscesses. The stools can become thin and ribbon-like due to pressure by the large abscess on the rectal wall. Dental abscesses are usually associated with either a canine tooth or an upper molar. Dental abscesses appear as hard lumps either on the lower jaw, usually near the chin, or on the upper jaw, often under or just in front of the eye. Abscesses should be treated as soon as possible. Besides being painful, there is a potential that an abscess can spread into deeper tissues allowing the bacteria to enter the blood stream. This could lead to a condition known as septicemia where the infectious organism is circulating throughout the body via the blood. Septicemia can lead to internal abscess formation or an overwhelming infection and death.
C YSTS
A cyst is a closed sac in or under the skin that is lined with epithelium, which are cells bound together by connective material, and contain fluid or semisolid material. Cysts are usually round, firm to the touch and moveable with the skin. Cysts, unlike abscesses, do not have red, inflamed skin surrounding them and are not usually painful. A cyst can occasionally form after a vaccination. This is an inflammatory response to chemicals that the vaccine contains and may appear up to one month after the vaccination and take six months or longer to disappear. Cysts are not dangerous, and are usually painless. However, they can increase in size and eventually become uncomfortable. It is best to have cysts removed while they are still small.
SIALOCELE
A sialocele is an accumulation of saliva under the skin of the lower jaw or neck. The saliva leaks out of a salivary duct damaged by either trauma or other disease, and forms a pocket under the skin. Sialoceles are painless and soft and fluctuant to the touch. They usually do not move with the skin. Sialoceles are not life threatening, but should be treated surgically because they rarely disappear on their own and can become quite large.
LYMPH NODES
Lymph nodes can be enlarged for a number of reasons, most notably lymphosarcoma, which is a type of cancer, and lymphoid hyperplasia, which is where lymph nodes are “overreacting” to some stimulus. Lymph nodes are found all over the body, but are most easily felt in the neck at the angle of the jaw, just in front of the shoulders, in the armpits, in the groin and along the back of the thighs. Enlarged lymph nodes do no move with the skin because they are connected to deeper tissues, but they can be felt just under the skin. Enlarged lymph nodes should be investigated as soon as possible so appropriate action can be taken.
NEOPLASIA (CANCER)
Pets can develop a wide variety of skin cancers including mastocytomas, histiocyotomas, sebaceous gland adenomas and adenocarcinomas, basal cell tumors, lymphoma, leiomyomas, lipomas, fibromas, fibrosarcomas and hemangiomas to name a few. The name of the tumor is based on the type of tissue that is cancerous. There are a few tumors that can be highly malignant and can spreading quickly, so we recommend all skin tumors be removed without delay and be identified by a pathologist. If the tumor involves only the skin, it will be moveable. Some tumors involve deeper tissue such as fibromas and fibrosarcomas or the tumors on the tail tip called chordomas, and will not be freely moveable. Most skin tumors are small, painless lumps, but some may become itchy, ulcerated, painful or quite large over time.
DIAGNOSIS
If your pet develops a skin lump you should seek veterinary attention as soon as possible. The first part of the diagnostic process is the physical examination. Some masses are readily identifiable during the examination and treatment may be prescribed without further diagnostics. If the diagnosis is unclear, your veterinarian may biopsy the mass with a needle. Biopsies are often done while the animal is awake because the procedure is quick and relatively painless. If a larger or deeper sample is needed it may be necessary to use a local or general anesthetic. The biopsy sample is examined under the microscope either in your veterinarian's office or is sent to a veterinary pathologist. Abscesses and sialoceles can often be diagnosed immediately based on the material extracted from the lump. A microscopic examination of the biopsy sample will be necessary to differentiate types or presence of cancer. Additionally, an x-ray may be recommended if an abscess is present, especially of the teeth, or if a malignant tumor is suspected. For all suspected malignant tumors, an x-ray of the chest should be performed to determine if the tumor has spread. A complete blood cell count and/or serum biochemistry might be performed in the case of abscesses, enlarged lymph nodes and tumors to detect abnormalities in other organs and the immune system. These blood tests may also be performed to determine if your pet is in good enough health to undergo surgery if it is the recommended treatment.
TREATMENT
The recommended treatment for most skin masses is complete surgical removal. In the case of abscesses, it may be advantageous to put the pet on oral antibiotics first and then surgically remove the abscess along with its thickened wall after some of the swelling has subsided. The source of the abscess should be removed such as an infected tooth or an infected anal gland. Cysts should be removed if they are persistent or become enlarged. Sialoceles are treated by draining the pocket of saliva and then keeping the area open until it heals. If multiple lymph nodes are enlarged, it is necessary to remove at least one to determine the cause and future treatment.
In my opinion, all skin tumors should be removed as soon as possible because of the potential for malignancy. Since most pets are excellent surgical candidates with the proper anesthesia, I often do not biopsy a tumor presurgically, but rather remove it entirely and then have it examined by a pathologist postoperatively. It is important to have a pathologist make a diagnosis on a surgically removed mass to determine if future treatment is necessary. Although the prognosis for aggressive, malignant tumors is guarded to grave, some pets benefit from chemo or other therapy postsurgically. It is my opinion that one should never adopt a “wait and see attitude” in pets with skin tumors. It is much easier to prevent localized disease with early removal than deal with systemic problems because you waited too long.
Skin masses are usually removed under a general anesthesia. Either conventional surgical techniques are employed or electrosurgery. Unless the lump was an abscess, or the surgical site was grossly contaminated, it should be unnecessary to use antibiotics postsurgically. Sutures or staples may be placed in the skin or absorbable sutures may be hidden under the skin. You should examine the surgical site at least twice a day for any drainage, swelling or loss of sutures. If the surgical site was large or very deep, the pet will benefit from the use of analgesics for a few days postoperatively.
So…as you can see, this need not be a complex issue. If you find a lump, get it attended to now, not later. Be prepared that often the best course of action is surgical removal. Your pet will thank for your prompt action!
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
Lumps and Bumps
It is quite common to find unusual lumps and bumps on any area of your pet’s body, particularly as they age. This paper will help you decide what is the most likely problem and what action to take. *Note: I will not be discussing any skin diseases such as fleas, mites or skin infections that do not cause an actual raised lump or mass.
TYPES OF SKIN MASSES
ABSCESSES
Abscesses are localized areas of inflammation that can occur anywhere in or on the body. Abscesses are most commonly created by bacteria but they can also be caused by fungi or noninfectious irritants and be sterile. Abscesses can form after punctures or tears, as with bites, or as a result of an infection in a specific tissue such as a tooth or anal gland. Multiple small abscesses can form internally when an infectious agent travels through the blood and then lodges in various tissues such as the liver, kidney or lungs. Fortunately, abscesses are uncommon in the United States and are most often associated with infected anal glands, infected teeth, or the prostate gland. Abscesses are rarely seen post surgically if standard sterile technique is used.
Abscesses in the skin can appear quickly and may be firm and painful when touched. An abscess is surrounded by a reddened and inflamed area and feels warm to the touch. In my experience, most abscesses in your pets skin will readily. An abscess in the skin that does not involve any deep tissues will move with the skin. A swelling will appear on either side of the anus in the case of anal gland abscesses. The stools can become thin and ribbon-like due to pressure by the large abscess on the rectal wall. Dental abscesses are usually associated with either a canine tooth or an upper molar. Dental abscesses appear as hard lumps either on the lower jaw, usually near the chin, or on the upper jaw, often under or just in front of the eye. Abscesses should be treated as soon as possible. Besides being painful, there is a potential that an abscess can spread into deeper tissues allowing the bacteria to enter the blood stream. This could lead to a condition known as septicemia where the infectious organism is circulating throughout the body via the blood. Septicemia can lead to internal abscess formation or an overwhelming infection and death.
C YSTS
A cyst is a closed sac in or under the skin that is lined with epithelium, which are cells bound together by connective material, and contain fluid or semisolid material. Cysts are usually round, firm to the touch and moveable with the skin. Cysts, unlike abscesses, do not have red, inflamed skin surrounding them and are not usually painful. A cyst can occasionally form after a vaccination. This is an inflammatory response to chemicals that the vaccine contains and may appear up to one month after the vaccination and take six months or longer to disappear. Cysts are not dangerous, and are usually painless. However, they can increase in size and eventually become uncomfortable. It is best to have cysts removed while they are still small.
SIALOCELE
A sialocele is an accumulation of saliva under the skin of the lower jaw or neck. The saliva leaks out of a salivary duct damaged by either trauma or other disease, and forms a pocket under the skin. Sialoceles are painless and soft and fluctuant to the touch. They usually do not move with the skin. Sialoceles are not life threatening, but should be treated surgically because they rarely disappear on their own and can become quite large.
LYMPH NODES
Lymph nodes can be enlarged for a number of reasons, most notably lymphosarcoma, which is a type of cancer, and lymphoid hyperplasia, which is where lymph nodes are “overreacting” to some stimulus. Lymph nodes are found all over the body, but are most easily felt in the neck at the angle of the jaw, just in front of the shoulders, in the armpits, in the groin and along the back of the thighs. Enlarged lymph nodes do no move with the skin because they are connected to deeper tissues, but they can be felt just under the skin. Enlarged lymph nodes should be investigated as soon as possible so appropriate action can be taken.
NEOPLASIA (CANCER)
Pets can develop a wide variety of skin cancers including mastocytomas, histiocyotomas, sebaceous gland adenomas and adenocarcinomas, basal cell tumors, lymphoma, leiomyomas, lipomas, fibromas, fibrosarcomas and hemangiomas to name a few. The name of the tumor is based on the type of tissue that is cancerous. There are a few tumors that can be highly malignant and can spreading quickly, so we recommend all skin tumors be removed without delay and be identified by a pathologist. If the tumor involves only the skin, it will be moveable. Some tumors involve deeper tissue such as fibromas and fibrosarcomas or the tumors on the tail tip called chordomas, and will not be freely moveable. Most skin tumors are small, painless lumps, but some may become itchy, ulcerated, painful or quite large over time.
DIAGNOSIS
If your pet develops a skin lump you should seek veterinary attention as soon as possible. The first part of the diagnostic process is the physical examination. Some masses are readily identifiable during the examination and treatment may be prescribed without further diagnostics. If the diagnosis is unclear, your veterinarian may biopsy the mass with a needle. Biopsies are often done while the animal is awake because the procedure is quick and relatively painless. If a larger or deeper sample is needed it may be necessary to use a local or general anesthetic. The biopsy sample is examined under the microscope either in your veterinarian's office or is sent to a veterinary pathologist. Abscesses and sialoceles can often be diagnosed immediately based on the material extracted from the lump. A microscopic examination of the biopsy sample will be necessary to differentiate types or presence of cancer. Additionally, an x-ray may be recommended if an abscess is present, especially of the teeth, or if a malignant tumor is suspected. For all suspected malignant tumors, an x-ray of the chest should be performed to determine if the tumor has spread. A complete blood cell count and/or serum biochemistry might be performed in the case of abscesses, enlarged lymph nodes and tumors to detect abnormalities in other organs and the immune system. These blood tests may also be performed to determine if your pet is in good enough health to undergo surgery if it is the recommended treatment.
TREATMENT
The recommended treatment for most skin masses is complete surgical removal. In the case of abscesses, it may be advantageous to put the pet on oral antibiotics first and then surgically remove the abscess along with its thickened wall after some of the swelling has subsided. The source of the abscess should be removed such as an infected tooth or an infected anal gland. Cysts should be removed if they are persistent or become enlarged. Sialoceles are treated by draining the pocket of saliva and then keeping the area open until it heals. If multiple lymph nodes are enlarged, it is necessary to remove at least one to determine the cause and future treatment.
In my opinion, all skin tumors should be removed as soon as possible because of the potential for malignancy. Since most pets are excellent surgical candidates with the proper anesthesia, I often do not biopsy a tumor presurgically, but rather remove it entirely and then have it examined by a pathologist postoperatively. It is important to have a pathologist make a diagnosis on a surgically removed mass to determine if future treatment is necessary. Although the prognosis for aggressive, malignant tumors is guarded to grave, some pets benefit from chemo or other therapy postsurgically. It is my opinion that one should never adopt a “wait and see attitude” in pets with skin tumors. It is much easier to prevent localized disease with early removal than deal with systemic problems because you waited too long.
Skin masses are usually removed under a general anesthesia. Either conventional surgical techniques are employed or electrosurgery. Unless the lump was an abscess, or the surgical site was grossly contaminated, it should be unnecessary to use antibiotics postsurgically. Sutures or staples may be placed in the skin or absorbable sutures may be hidden under the skin. You should examine the surgical site at least twice a day for any drainage, swelling or loss of sutures. If the surgical site was large or very deep, the pet will benefit from the use of analgesics for a few days postoperatively.
So…as you can see, this need not be a complex issue. If you find a lump, get it attended to now, not later. Be prepared that often the best course of action is surgical removal. Your pet will thank for your prompt action!
Capturing a feral cat
Capturing a Feral Cat
The best way to capture a feral cat is with a cage or the "hav-a-heart" traps commonly used by humane societies. Good bait is essential, since these guys can't be fooled twice, so a good piece of raw meat or fresh game is best. However, a nice fish head will work in a pinch. Hide the trap under a blanket or woodpile to disguise it. If you need to catch more than one cat, this will prevent the loose cats from knowing what the trap does. Also, the cat you are trying to catch may be disturbed by the appearance of the trap, so covering or disguising it may be your best way to entice the animal in.Once you catch the cat, take it to the vet to be spayed or neutered and given vaccinations. You might also have it tested for feline leukemia, since there isn't much you can do if the poor thing is sick. I know people who run foster homes for FeLV positive cats, but I can't go near them. I don't want to bring that home to my babies.
Once you have taken care of the cat with the vet, you have a decision to make. Keep and tame the cat or let it loose in the colony. If you decide to let it loose, you can be comfortable knowing the cat is healthy, and won't breed any more. This will serve to lengthen its life, if nothing else. No longer interested in mating, a male won't be so inclined to fight with other cats. Females will build strength after being mothers so many times. They will become nice outdoor cats in your yard if you feed them.
The best way to capture a feral cat is with a cage or the "hav-a-heart" traps commonly used by humane societies. Good bait is essential, since these guys can't be fooled twice, so a good piece of raw meat or fresh game is best. However, a nice fish head will work in a pinch. Hide the trap under a blanket or woodpile to disguise it. If you need to catch more than one cat, this will prevent the loose cats from knowing what the trap does. Also, the cat you are trying to catch may be disturbed by the appearance of the trap, so covering or disguising it may be your best way to entice the animal in.Once you catch the cat, take it to the vet to be spayed or neutered and given vaccinations. You might also have it tested for feline leukemia, since there isn't much you can do if the poor thing is sick. I know people who run foster homes for FeLV positive cats, but I can't go near them. I don't want to bring that home to my babies.
Once you have taken care of the cat with the vet, you have a decision to make. Keep and tame the cat or let it loose in the colony. If you decide to let it loose, you can be comfortable knowing the cat is healthy, and won't breed any more. This will serve to lengthen its life, if nothing else. No longer interested in mating, a male won't be so inclined to fight with other cats. Females will build strength after being mothers so many times. They will become nice outdoor cats in your yard if you feed them.
Feline Aggression
Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
FELINE AGGRESSION: TERRITORIAL AND FEAR AGGRESSION TO HOUSEHOLD CATS
What is territorial aggression?
Territorial aggression may be exhibited toward people or other animals (usually cats) that approach or reside on the pet’s property. Aggression can occur toward outside cats or to cats that live in the same household, especially new cats coming into the territory. This can occur with the addition of another cat, or when resident cats reach social maturity at 1-2 years of age. Another situation is when one cat is removed from the household (perhaps for routine surgery or boarding), and aggression is exhibited when the cat is brought back into the home. This aggression may be a combination of territorial and fear based aggression (perhaps the returning cat smells, looks or acts unfamiliar in some way).
Territorial aggression can manifest as stalking, chasing and aggressive encounters, which may lead to injury. At times the aggressor will prevent the victim from having access to certain areas of the home, resulting in a cat that lives on top of furniture, bookshelves or under beds. This may in part be related to the social relationship (status) of each cat and can lead to other problems such as house soiling and non-litter box use. Although the aggression of one cat to another may be due to territoriality, there are also components of fear, sociability and social status that contribute equally, or perhaps in some cases more, to the aggressive response. (See our handout on ‘Aggression – introduction to aggressive behavior’).
How can territorial aggression be prevented?
Territorial aggression can be prevented or minimized with early socialization, patient and slow introductions of new cats, and adequate resources, including litter boxes and food bowls plus sufficient space for climbing, hiding and dispersing. However, when a new cat is introduced (or reintroduced) into a household with existing cats, problems can best be prevented by slowly introducing the new cat to the environment, by keeping the new cat in a separate room with water and kitty litter, and by supervising all interactions. The correct time to begin cat-to-cat interactions can be highly variable. If both cats have had adequate socialization with other cats, and are not too timid or fearful, it may only be a matter of a few days to a few weeks before the cats work things out on their own and are able to share the territory with little or no aggressive displays. However, in some homes, the aggression between cats persists. In these cases, a lengthy separation is likely to be required in addition to a more formal desensitization and counter-conditioning program.
What is the best way to safely introduce (or reintroduce) a cat into the household?
In order to ensure that there are no injuries and that all introductions are positive, a desensitization and counter-conditioning program is the best way to ease or re-introduce a cat into a household (See our handouts on behavior modification, systematic desensitization, feline fear and multi-cat households).
Begin by confining the “new” cat to a room or portion of the home with its own litter box, food, bedding, perching area, play toys and water. Allow the existing cat to continue to have access to the rest of the home. This arrangement provides a separate territory within the home for each cat, and allows both cats an opportunity to adapt to the smell and sounds of each other, without the possibility of direct contact or physical confrontation. If the new cat is housed in a screened-in porch or a room with a glass door, it may also be possible to allow the cats to see each other through a safe partition. Be certain to provide sufficient play, social interactions and even a little reward training with each of the cats. If you are planning to use a crate or a harness and leash for exposure exercises, be certain to spend some time training the cats to accept the harness and to get accustomed to their crates. A Feliway™ diffuser or Feliway™ spray on the cat’s bedding or in its crate may help each cat to adapt and settle more quickly. Offer small meal portions (rather than free choice feeding) and treats on opposite sides of the common doorway to increase the proximity of the cats. Remember that, by separating the cats, you are not only providing an opportunity for them to adapt to the presence of the other cat, but also to prevent threats, fearful displays and attacks which would only add to the fear and anxiety. When the cats show no fear, anxiety, or threat toward each other behind closed doors, it may be useful to switch positions, with the other cat confined while the new cat is allowed household access. The next step is to progress to controlled exposure exercises. Training should occur when the cats can be occupied in a highly “rewarding” activity such as feeding, play, or treats. Provided both cats are far enough apart to minimize the possibility of aggression, and the reward is sufficiently appealing, the cats will focus on the rewards rather than each other. In addition, if the rewards are saved exclusively for these introduction times, the cats will quickly learn to expect “good things to happen” in the presence of each other (counter-conditioning). In addition to ensuring that the cats are at a safe enough distance to minimize fear, both cats (or at least the one that is likely to be the aggressor) can be confined to an open wire mesh cage or a body harness and leash. This will ensure that the cats can neither escape nor injure each other, and provides a practical means for controlling distance between the cats for desensitization and counter-conditioning. If the cats have been in cages during the first training session, they can be placed in each other’s cages at the next session (so that each cat is exposed to the other cat’s odor). Using cage confinement of one or both cats, or a leash and harness on one or both cats, the cats can be brought progressively closer at each subsequent feeding session, as long as there has been no fear or anxiety and both remain interested in the food. Over time the cats are fed closer together until a point where the cats can eat or take treats in each other’s presence.
Another way to integrate cats is with play therapy. Some cats are more interested in play, toys or catnip than they are in food. One of the best toys is a wand or fishing rod handle with a stimulating play toy such as a catnip mouse or feathers on the end for chasing and pouncing. Begin by having both cats play at a distance from each other. Again, one cat can be kept in a crate with food while the other is out with play therapy. A leash and harness can also be used to ensure success. Over time, introduce the toys between the cats and let them play with the toys together.
What if the aggression between the cats persists?
Introductions must be done slowly. The cats need to be far enough apart that they are relaxed and will take food or a treat while in the presence of the other cat. If the cats will not eat then they are too anxious and probably too close together, and the introductions are not accomplishing the goal of learning to associate the other cat with pleasant things. If the cats will not eat in each other’s presence, try moving the dishes further apart. If one or both of the cats still will not eat, separate the cats, do not give any food, and repeat introductions with food in a couple of hours. If the cats eat at that time, repeat using the same distance at the next feeding. If things go well, the next time the dishes can be moved closer together, but only by a small increment. If introductions where the cats can see one another are not successful, you will have to start with a much milder level of the stimulus. You might begin by keeping the cats in their own rooms and feeding on opposite sides of the door. A glass or screen door would then allow you to add the stimulus of sight while you feed the cats on opposite sides of the door. While they are usually aware of the other cat, the fear or anxiety might be diminished and the cat will eat. Next, the door might be propped open a few inches so that the cats can see each other while they eat. Cats that are too anxious or aggressive for even this type of introduction may get more quickly accustomed to the other cat if a cloth or brush is used to rub and groom one of the cats and then used on the other cat while giving favored food and treats.
This is a slow process; you cannot rush things. Allowing either cat to interact in an aggressive manner sets the program back. The cats must remain separated except during times such as feeding when the cats are distracted, occupied, and engaged in an enjoyable act. In other words, good things are associated with the presence of the other cat. If the cats are doing well, you might want to increase their time together. However, if there are specific times, specific resources or specific areas of the home where threats or aggression are likely to recur, long term or permanent separation at all times except for supervised social play, feeding and training might be necessary. Although preventing recurrence is the goal, there may be occasions where aggression begins to recur. At the earliest signs of fear or anxiety, it would be preferable to distract the cats with a “come” command (if command reward trained), or by pulling on the leash and harness, if one has been left attached. In this way the aggressor is inhibited and the fearful cat (which might be stimulating further chase and attack by the aggressor) may begin to feel more confident when the owner is around to supervise and inhibit. Counter-condition and reward the fearful cat for not running away. Reward and counter-condition the aggressor cat if it comes to you, settles down and leaves the other cat alone. With enough different litter boxes, climbing areas and places to hide, it should be possible for many cats to adapt and remain together (or perhaps be separated while the owners cannot supervise). Another option is to install an electronic cat door through which one cat can escape to its own room. These cat doors will only open for the cat wearing the activation collar.
Despite slow and careful progression, some cats may continue to display aggression, and it may be necessary to accept that they may never be compatible housemates. Although cats do live in social groups, they also have the opportunity to leave them if they do not feel welcome. The social groups we create in the home do not provide that opportunity. The only way to avoid territorial competition in these cats may be to find a new home for one of the cats, or to provide separate living quarters for each cat within the home. If the cats get along at certain times of the day, they can then be allowed limited exposure and interaction at these times. A leash and harness, or perhaps an air horn or water rifle, could be used to safely separate the cats should any aggressive displays emerge. If the problem is too severe, it may be helpful to medicate one or both cats. The option of drug therapy should be discussed with your veterinarian.
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
FELINE AGGRESSION: TERRITORIAL AND FEAR AGGRESSION TO HOUSEHOLD CATS
What is territorial aggression?
Territorial aggression may be exhibited toward people or other animals (usually cats) that approach or reside on the pet’s property. Aggression can occur toward outside cats or to cats that live in the same household, especially new cats coming into the territory. This can occur with the addition of another cat, or when resident cats reach social maturity at 1-2 years of age. Another situation is when one cat is removed from the household (perhaps for routine surgery or boarding), and aggression is exhibited when the cat is brought back into the home. This aggression may be a combination of territorial and fear based aggression (perhaps the returning cat smells, looks or acts unfamiliar in some way).
Territorial aggression can manifest as stalking, chasing and aggressive encounters, which may lead to injury. At times the aggressor will prevent the victim from having access to certain areas of the home, resulting in a cat that lives on top of furniture, bookshelves or under beds. This may in part be related to the social relationship (status) of each cat and can lead to other problems such as house soiling and non-litter box use. Although the aggression of one cat to another may be due to territoriality, there are also components of fear, sociability and social status that contribute equally, or perhaps in some cases more, to the aggressive response. (See our handout on ‘Aggression – introduction to aggressive behavior’).
How can territorial aggression be prevented?
Territorial aggression can be prevented or minimized with early socialization, patient and slow introductions of new cats, and adequate resources, including litter boxes and food bowls plus sufficient space for climbing, hiding and dispersing. However, when a new cat is introduced (or reintroduced) into a household with existing cats, problems can best be prevented by slowly introducing the new cat to the environment, by keeping the new cat in a separate room with water and kitty litter, and by supervising all interactions. The correct time to begin cat-to-cat interactions can be highly variable. If both cats have had adequate socialization with other cats, and are not too timid or fearful, it may only be a matter of a few days to a few weeks before the cats work things out on their own and are able to share the territory with little or no aggressive displays. However, in some homes, the aggression between cats persists. In these cases, a lengthy separation is likely to be required in addition to a more formal desensitization and counter-conditioning program.
What is the best way to safely introduce (or reintroduce) a cat into the household?
In order to ensure that there are no injuries and that all introductions are positive, a desensitization and counter-conditioning program is the best way to ease or re-introduce a cat into a household (See our handouts on behavior modification, systematic desensitization, feline fear and multi-cat households).
Begin by confining the “new” cat to a room or portion of the home with its own litter box, food, bedding, perching area, play toys and water. Allow the existing cat to continue to have access to the rest of the home. This arrangement provides a separate territory within the home for each cat, and allows both cats an opportunity to adapt to the smell and sounds of each other, without the possibility of direct contact or physical confrontation. If the new cat is housed in a screened-in porch or a room with a glass door, it may also be possible to allow the cats to see each other through a safe partition. Be certain to provide sufficient play, social interactions and even a little reward training with each of the cats. If you are planning to use a crate or a harness and leash for exposure exercises, be certain to spend some time training the cats to accept the harness and to get accustomed to their crates. A Feliway™ diffuser or Feliway™ spray on the cat’s bedding or in its crate may help each cat to adapt and settle more quickly. Offer small meal portions (rather than free choice feeding) and treats on opposite sides of the common doorway to increase the proximity of the cats. Remember that, by separating the cats, you are not only providing an opportunity for them to adapt to the presence of the other cat, but also to prevent threats, fearful displays and attacks which would only add to the fear and anxiety. When the cats show no fear, anxiety, or threat toward each other behind closed doors, it may be useful to switch positions, with the other cat confined while the new cat is allowed household access. The next step is to progress to controlled exposure exercises. Training should occur when the cats can be occupied in a highly “rewarding” activity such as feeding, play, or treats. Provided both cats are far enough apart to minimize the possibility of aggression, and the reward is sufficiently appealing, the cats will focus on the rewards rather than each other. In addition, if the rewards are saved exclusively for these introduction times, the cats will quickly learn to expect “good things to happen” in the presence of each other (counter-conditioning). In addition to ensuring that the cats are at a safe enough distance to minimize fear, both cats (or at least the one that is likely to be the aggressor) can be confined to an open wire mesh cage or a body harness and leash. This will ensure that the cats can neither escape nor injure each other, and provides a practical means for controlling distance between the cats for desensitization and counter-conditioning. If the cats have been in cages during the first training session, they can be placed in each other’s cages at the next session (so that each cat is exposed to the other cat’s odor). Using cage confinement of one or both cats, or a leash and harness on one or both cats, the cats can be brought progressively closer at each subsequent feeding session, as long as there has been no fear or anxiety and both remain interested in the food. Over time the cats are fed closer together until a point where the cats can eat or take treats in each other’s presence.
Another way to integrate cats is with play therapy. Some cats are more interested in play, toys or catnip than they are in food. One of the best toys is a wand or fishing rod handle with a stimulating play toy such as a catnip mouse or feathers on the end for chasing and pouncing. Begin by having both cats play at a distance from each other. Again, one cat can be kept in a crate with food while the other is out with play therapy. A leash and harness can also be used to ensure success. Over time, introduce the toys between the cats and let them play with the toys together.
What if the aggression between the cats persists?
Introductions must be done slowly. The cats need to be far enough apart that they are relaxed and will take food or a treat while in the presence of the other cat. If the cats will not eat then they are too anxious and probably too close together, and the introductions are not accomplishing the goal of learning to associate the other cat with pleasant things. If the cats will not eat in each other’s presence, try moving the dishes further apart. If one or both of the cats still will not eat, separate the cats, do not give any food, and repeat introductions with food in a couple of hours. If the cats eat at that time, repeat using the same distance at the next feeding. If things go well, the next time the dishes can be moved closer together, but only by a small increment. If introductions where the cats can see one another are not successful, you will have to start with a much milder level of the stimulus. You might begin by keeping the cats in their own rooms and feeding on opposite sides of the door. A glass or screen door would then allow you to add the stimulus of sight while you feed the cats on opposite sides of the door. While they are usually aware of the other cat, the fear or anxiety might be diminished and the cat will eat. Next, the door might be propped open a few inches so that the cats can see each other while they eat. Cats that are too anxious or aggressive for even this type of introduction may get more quickly accustomed to the other cat if a cloth or brush is used to rub and groom one of the cats and then used on the other cat while giving favored food and treats.
This is a slow process; you cannot rush things. Allowing either cat to interact in an aggressive manner sets the program back. The cats must remain separated except during times such as feeding when the cats are distracted, occupied, and engaged in an enjoyable act. In other words, good things are associated with the presence of the other cat. If the cats are doing well, you might want to increase their time together. However, if there are specific times, specific resources or specific areas of the home where threats or aggression are likely to recur, long term or permanent separation at all times except for supervised social play, feeding and training might be necessary. Although preventing recurrence is the goal, there may be occasions where aggression begins to recur. At the earliest signs of fear or anxiety, it would be preferable to distract the cats with a “come” command (if command reward trained), or by pulling on the leash and harness, if one has been left attached. In this way the aggressor is inhibited and the fearful cat (which might be stimulating further chase and attack by the aggressor) may begin to feel more confident when the owner is around to supervise and inhibit. Counter-condition and reward the fearful cat for not running away. Reward and counter-condition the aggressor cat if it comes to you, settles down and leaves the other cat alone. With enough different litter boxes, climbing areas and places to hide, it should be possible for many cats to adapt and remain together (or perhaps be separated while the owners cannot supervise). Another option is to install an electronic cat door through which one cat can escape to its own room. These cat doors will only open for the cat wearing the activation collar.
Despite slow and careful progression, some cats may continue to display aggression, and it may be necessary to accept that they may never be compatible housemates. Although cats do live in social groups, they also have the opportunity to leave them if they do not feel welcome. The social groups we create in the home do not provide that opportunity. The only way to avoid territorial competition in these cats may be to find a new home for one of the cats, or to provide separate living quarters for each cat within the home. If the cats get along at certain times of the day, they can then be allowed limited exposure and interaction at these times. A leash and harness, or perhaps an air horn or water rifle, could be used to safely separate the cats should any aggressive displays emerge. If the problem is too severe, it may be helpful to medicate one or both cats. The option of drug therapy should be discussed with your veterinarian.
Hip Dysplasia
Advanced Animal Care Center
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
HIP DYSPLASIA
I have been told that my dog has hip dysplasia but she isn’t lame. Can the diagnosis be correct?
Hip dysplasia is a deformity of the hip that occurs during growth. The hip joint is a “ball and socket” joint. During growth both the “ball” (the head of the femur or thighbone) and the “socket” in the pelvis (acetabulum) must grow at equal rates.
In hip dysplasia this uniform growth does not occur. The result is laxity of the joint followed by degenerative joint disease or arthritis, which is the body’s attempt to stabilize the loose hip joint.
The degree of lameness that occurs is dependent on the extent of these arthritic changes and may not be correlated with the appearance of the hip joint on x-rays. Some pets with significant signs of hip dysplasia on x-rays may not exhibit any clinical signs while others with minimal changes may experience severe pain and lameness.
What causes it?
There are two primary causes of hip dysplasia, genetics and diet. The genes involved have not been conclusively identified, but it is believed to involve more than one gene. Advances in nutritional research have shown that diet plays an important role in the development of hip dysplasia. Large breed puppies should be fed a special diet during the first year of life to reduce this risk.
If it is hereditary, are certain breeds affected more than others?
Yes, although any dog can be affected, it is predominantly seen in larger dogs such as German Shepherds, Saint Bernards, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrieves, Old English Sheepdogs and Bulldogs. Mixed-breed large dogs are also at risk for developing hip dysplasia and should also be fed a special large breed growth diet the first year.
What symptoms should I look for?
Weakness and pain in the hindlegs are the usual clinical signs. The dog appears wobbly and is reluctant to rise from a sitting or lying position. This can be seen in puppies a few months old but is most common in dogs one to two years of age.
Dogs with mild hip dysplasia on x-ray may develop minimal arthritis without clinical signs until they are older.
How is it diagnosed?
A hip radiograph is the preferred method for diagnosing hip dysplasia. Clinical signs and palpable joint laxity may also indicate hip dysplasia. Any pet suspected of having hip dysplasia should be radiographed as soon as possible.
What is the treatment?
This depends upon the pet’s clinical signs and amount of discomfort. There are very effective non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) that have minimal side effects. The choice of medication is made on an individual basis and various drugs may need to be tried before finding the most effective one. Most dogs with hip dysplasia should receive veterinary-approved glucosamine-chondroitin sulfate nutritional supplements.
What if NSAIDs don’t help?
The alternative to NSAID therapy is surgery. There are several surgical procedures available to treat hip dysplasia. The two most surgical techniques for hip dysplasia are total hip replacement and femoral head ostectomy (FHO). The choice of surgery will be determined by your pet’s condition and lifestyle.
I originally intended to breed my dog. What should I do?
Hip dysplasia is a genetic or inherited disease. We do not recommend that any pet showing any signs of hip dysplasia be bred.
What else can I do to reduce the risk of hip dysplasia?
Large breed or at-risk puppies should be fed a special large-breed growth diet during their first year of life. Your veterinarian will give you specific feeding guidelines to ensure that you are providing the best care for your dog.
Is there anything else I ought to know?
If you decide to purchase a large breed puppy, make sure that the parents are certified clear of hip dysplasia. Dogs can be certified by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA). If both parents of the large breed puppy you are interested in aren’t OFA-certified, you should choose another dog.
For more information on selecting a large breed puppy or hip dysplasia, contact your veterinarian.
260 Evergreen Avenue
Huntington Station, NY, 11746
Phone: (631) 367-7387 Fax:(631) 367-7414 advancedcareforpets.com
HIP DYSPLASIA
I have been told that my dog has hip dysplasia but she isn’t lame. Can the diagnosis be correct?
Hip dysplasia is a deformity of the hip that occurs during growth. The hip joint is a “ball and socket” joint. During growth both the “ball” (the head of the femur or thighbone) and the “socket” in the pelvis (acetabulum) must grow at equal rates.
In hip dysplasia this uniform growth does not occur. The result is laxity of the joint followed by degenerative joint disease or arthritis, which is the body’s attempt to stabilize the loose hip joint.
The degree of lameness that occurs is dependent on the extent of these arthritic changes and may not be correlated with the appearance of the hip joint on x-rays. Some pets with significant signs of hip dysplasia on x-rays may not exhibit any clinical signs while others with minimal changes may experience severe pain and lameness.
What causes it?
There are two primary causes of hip dysplasia, genetics and diet. The genes involved have not been conclusively identified, but it is believed to involve more than one gene. Advances in nutritional research have shown that diet plays an important role in the development of hip dysplasia. Large breed puppies should be fed a special diet during the first year of life to reduce this risk.
If it is hereditary, are certain breeds affected more than others?
Yes, although any dog can be affected, it is predominantly seen in larger dogs such as German Shepherds, Saint Bernards, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrieves, Old English Sheepdogs and Bulldogs. Mixed-breed large dogs are also at risk for developing hip dysplasia and should also be fed a special large breed growth diet the first year.
What symptoms should I look for?
Weakness and pain in the hindlegs are the usual clinical signs. The dog appears wobbly and is reluctant to rise from a sitting or lying position. This can be seen in puppies a few months old but is most common in dogs one to two years of age.
Dogs with mild hip dysplasia on x-ray may develop minimal arthritis without clinical signs until they are older.
How is it diagnosed?
A hip radiograph is the preferred method for diagnosing hip dysplasia. Clinical signs and palpable joint laxity may also indicate hip dysplasia. Any pet suspected of having hip dysplasia should be radiographed as soon as possible.
What is the treatment?
This depends upon the pet’s clinical signs and amount of discomfort. There are very effective non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) that have minimal side effects. The choice of medication is made on an individual basis and various drugs may need to be tried before finding the most effective one. Most dogs with hip dysplasia should receive veterinary-approved glucosamine-chondroitin sulfate nutritional supplements.
What if NSAIDs don’t help?
The alternative to NSAID therapy is surgery. There are several surgical procedures available to treat hip dysplasia. The two most surgical techniques for hip dysplasia are total hip replacement and femoral head ostectomy (FHO). The choice of surgery will be determined by your pet’s condition and lifestyle.
I originally intended to breed my dog. What should I do?
Hip dysplasia is a genetic or inherited disease. We do not recommend that any pet showing any signs of hip dysplasia be bred.
What else can I do to reduce the risk of hip dysplasia?
Large breed or at-risk puppies should be fed a special large-breed growth diet during their first year of life. Your veterinarian will give you specific feeding guidelines to ensure that you are providing the best care for your dog.
Is there anything else I ought to know?
If you decide to purchase a large breed puppy, make sure that the parents are certified clear of hip dysplasia. Dogs can be certified by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA). If both parents of the large breed puppy you are interested in aren’t OFA-certified, you should choose another dog.
For more information on selecting a large breed puppy or hip dysplasia, contact your veterinarian.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Cats travel on planes evryday
AIRLINE TRAVEL WITH YOUR CAT
Cats travel on planes every day. Although some unfortunate events may occur on rare occasions, these can be usually avoided if some simple precautions are followed. It is impossible to overemphasize the need to consult with the airline well in advance of your trip. This is essential if you hope to avoid last minute problems. Here are some basic tips for airline travel with your cat:
Determine whether the airline has requirements for “acclimation.” In the event that you are unable to secure a direct flight, the pet carrier may be left outside the plane for a period of time. To avoid liability on their part, some airlines require a letter from your veterinarian stating that the pet is acclimated to a minimum or maximum temperature. It is important to find out if the airline requires that the acclimation temperature be given precisely, such as 20°F (-7°C) for a defined period of time.
Consult with the airline regarding baggage liability. In some cases, this can include your pet. If you are sending a pet, you may need to consider additional liability insurance.
Have your cat examined by your veterinarian in advance of the trip, especially if it has been more than a few months since the last checkup. This is especially important for senior cats. Travel by plane can pose a risk for cats with pre-existing medical problems, such as heart or kidney disease. Also, some short-faced breeds of cats such as Himalayans, Persians and Exotic Shorthairs do not travel well in certain situations.
Be sure that you have written proof of current vaccinations and a valid health certificate. These cannot be obtained “after the fact.” You must be able to present them on demand. Most countries now require an international health certificate that may not be available from your veterinarian, or that may require a signature from a government official. Some countries have specific requirements for blood testing or antiparasitic treatment that must be performed within a certain time interval prior to the trip. The specific requirements can be obtained from the consulate’s office, or by searching government websites for the country of interest. The appropriate documentation may take several days to arrive.
You should also inquire about possible requirements to quarantine your cat should you be traveling to a foreign country.
Take direct flights if possible, and try to avoid connections and layovers. Sometimes, this is easier to achieve if the trip is planned during the week. The well-being of your cat could be a source of concern if the baggage connection between flights should be missed.
Some airlines will allow one pet in coach and one in first class, with some provisions. To find out whether there are limitations on the number of animals present in the cabin, you should advise the airline if you plan to travel with your cat in the cabin. Check on the cage dimensions and requirements so that there won’t be a problem stowing the carrier beneath the seat. Some airlines require that the pet be able to stand upright in the carrier. A collapsible fabric carrier is suitable for this situation. Be sure to check out your airline’s specific carrier requirements prior to travel.
Consider in advance all medications that you might need for your cat. These might include heartworm and flea preventive, or any regular prescription medications that your cat may require. If your cat is on a specific diet, especially a therapeutic diet, you need to ensure that it will be available at your destination, or else take along a sufficient supply.
You should outfit your cat with an identification tag attached to a collar or harness. The tag should contain contact information in case the cat escapes from its carrier. You should include a leash for secure restraint in case the cat needs to be taken out of the carrier.
Take a supply of fresh drinking water and water bowls to provide your cat with fresh water during layovers and waits. There are many collapsible water and food containers available that will often fit in your cat’s carry-on carrier.
What should I do at the time of the flight?
Do not tranquilize or sedate your cat unless you have discussed this with your veterinarian. Cats do not tolerate some medicines well and giving over-the-counter or prescription pharmaceuticals can be dangerous or fatal.
Make sure that the carrier has permanent identification, including your name, phone number, flight schedule, destination, and a phone number at the point of destination.
Feed your cat before you leave home. Water should be available at all times, including inside the carrier. If you have a senior cat with marginal kidney function, it is important that it not be deprived of water, even for a few hours. Discuss this with your veterinarian. Try to secure a direct flight with no or minimal layovers. Your cat should have fresh water after arrival.
What should I look for in a travel cat carrier?
The carrier should provide sufficient room for the cat to stand up and turn around easily, but not so large that the cat can be tossed about inside during turbulence. Remember that airlines have special requirements for onboard carriers.
The walls of the carrier should be strong enough to prevent the sides from being crushed. Also, the flooring of the cage should not allow urine to leak through the bottom. An absorptive underpad designed for bedridden people with bladder control problems can be placed in the bottom. See your pharmacist for these.
The carrier should have good ventilation.
The carrier must have sturdy handles for baggage personnel to use.
The carrier should have a water tray which is accessible from the outside so that water can be added, if needed.
Pet stores, breeders, and kennels usually sell carriers that meet these requirements. Some airlines also sell carriers that they prefer to use. Check with the airline to see if they have other requirements.
Try to familiarize your cat with the travel carrier before you leave for your trip. Give your cat access to the carrier both with the door open and closed. This will help eliminate some of your cat's stress during the trip.
What arrangements should I make at the destination site?
Be sure that your hotel will allow cats. There are many internet sites and travel guidebooks with this type of information.
Provide a litter pan and food and water bowls for the hotel room.
Place a “Do Not Disturb” sign on your hotel door so that housekeeping will not inadvertently let the cat escape. Plan to have your room cleaned only when you are present and your cat is secured in its carrier.
It is probably best to leave the cat in the carrier or inside the bathroom whenever you plan to leave the room.
Should your cat get lost, contact the local animal control officer.
Advance planning is the key to a safe trip with your pet!
Cats travel on planes every day. Although some unfortunate events may occur on rare occasions, these can be usually avoided if some simple precautions are followed. It is impossible to overemphasize the need to consult with the airline well in advance of your trip. This is essential if you hope to avoid last minute problems. Here are some basic tips for airline travel with your cat:
Determine whether the airline has requirements for “acclimation.” In the event that you are unable to secure a direct flight, the pet carrier may be left outside the plane for a period of time. To avoid liability on their part, some airlines require a letter from your veterinarian stating that the pet is acclimated to a minimum or maximum temperature. It is important to find out if the airline requires that the acclimation temperature be given precisely, such as 20°F (-7°C) for a defined period of time.
Consult with the airline regarding baggage liability. In some cases, this can include your pet. If you are sending a pet, you may need to consider additional liability insurance.
Have your cat examined by your veterinarian in advance of the trip, especially if it has been more than a few months since the last checkup. This is especially important for senior cats. Travel by plane can pose a risk for cats with pre-existing medical problems, such as heart or kidney disease. Also, some short-faced breeds of cats such as Himalayans, Persians and Exotic Shorthairs do not travel well in certain situations.
Be sure that you have written proof of current vaccinations and a valid health certificate. These cannot be obtained “after the fact.” You must be able to present them on demand. Most countries now require an international health certificate that may not be available from your veterinarian, or that may require a signature from a government official. Some countries have specific requirements for blood testing or antiparasitic treatment that must be performed within a certain time interval prior to the trip. The specific requirements can be obtained from the consulate’s office, or by searching government websites for the country of interest. The appropriate documentation may take several days to arrive.
You should also inquire about possible requirements to quarantine your cat should you be traveling to a foreign country.
Take direct flights if possible, and try to avoid connections and layovers. Sometimes, this is easier to achieve if the trip is planned during the week. The well-being of your cat could be a source of concern if the baggage connection between flights should be missed.
Some airlines will allow one pet in coach and one in first class, with some provisions. To find out whether there are limitations on the number of animals present in the cabin, you should advise the airline if you plan to travel with your cat in the cabin. Check on the cage dimensions and requirements so that there won’t be a problem stowing the carrier beneath the seat. Some airlines require that the pet be able to stand upright in the carrier. A collapsible fabric carrier is suitable for this situation. Be sure to check out your airline’s specific carrier requirements prior to travel.
Consider in advance all medications that you might need for your cat. These might include heartworm and flea preventive, or any regular prescription medications that your cat may require. If your cat is on a specific diet, especially a therapeutic diet, you need to ensure that it will be available at your destination, or else take along a sufficient supply.
You should outfit your cat with an identification tag attached to a collar or harness. The tag should contain contact information in case the cat escapes from its carrier. You should include a leash for secure restraint in case the cat needs to be taken out of the carrier.
Take a supply of fresh drinking water and water bowls to provide your cat with fresh water during layovers and waits. There are many collapsible water and food containers available that will often fit in your cat’s carry-on carrier.
What should I do at the time of the flight?
Do not tranquilize or sedate your cat unless you have discussed this with your veterinarian. Cats do not tolerate some medicines well and giving over-the-counter or prescription pharmaceuticals can be dangerous or fatal.
Make sure that the carrier has permanent identification, including your name, phone number, flight schedule, destination, and a phone number at the point of destination.
Feed your cat before you leave home. Water should be available at all times, including inside the carrier. If you have a senior cat with marginal kidney function, it is important that it not be deprived of water, even for a few hours. Discuss this with your veterinarian. Try to secure a direct flight with no or minimal layovers. Your cat should have fresh water after arrival.
What should I look for in a travel cat carrier?
The carrier should provide sufficient room for the cat to stand up and turn around easily, but not so large that the cat can be tossed about inside during turbulence. Remember that airlines have special requirements for onboard carriers.
The walls of the carrier should be strong enough to prevent the sides from being crushed. Also, the flooring of the cage should not allow urine to leak through the bottom. An absorptive underpad designed for bedridden people with bladder control problems can be placed in the bottom. See your pharmacist for these.
The carrier should have good ventilation.
The carrier must have sturdy handles for baggage personnel to use.
The carrier should have a water tray which is accessible from the outside so that water can be added, if needed.
Pet stores, breeders, and kennels usually sell carriers that meet these requirements. Some airlines also sell carriers that they prefer to use. Check with the airline to see if they have other requirements.
Try to familiarize your cat with the travel carrier before you leave for your trip. Give your cat access to the carrier both with the door open and closed. This will help eliminate some of your cat's stress during the trip.
What arrangements should I make at the destination site?
Be sure that your hotel will allow cats. There are many internet sites and travel guidebooks with this type of information.
Provide a litter pan and food and water bowls for the hotel room.
Place a “Do Not Disturb” sign on your hotel door so that housekeeping will not inadvertently let the cat escape. Plan to have your room cleaned only when you are present and your cat is secured in its carrier.
It is probably best to leave the cat in the carrier or inside the bathroom whenever you plan to leave the room.
Should your cat get lost, contact the local animal control officer.
Advance planning is the key to a safe trip with your pet!
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